Rear main seal leakage - should I use a stop leak? [1994 IDI w/ turbo]

G. Mann

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I just scrolled through the entire thread and I'm surprised that everyone has overlooked another leak source coming from the same area as the rear main seal...
That is the flywheel bolts.
The flywheel bolt threads go through the crank flange. If the bolts are installed without thread sealant, oil will migrate past the threads and act like a real seal leak.

In any case, spray the entire engine down with something like Foamy Engine Cleaner [I like it because it dissolves oil and sludge quickly] then hit it with a car wash pressure nozzle to clear off all the oil you can...
Pull the lower flywheel cover [4 bolts, if they are all still there] and run the engine for a bit. use a good flashlight and look up at the flywheel/block area for fresh oil drip..

In either case, main seal or flywheel bolts... both are going to come out and be re-sealed..
Good luck.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'm not sure if the flywheel bolts would leak this much or not. I've never seen an engine without sealer on those bolts.
 

G. Mann

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In either case, the flywheel bolts must be removed to access the rear main seal. Transmission removal, flywheel removal, has to happen.
While you are in there, take a good look at the freeze plug that lives behind the flywheel also. In and out once, so you don't have to go back for a long time. Seal up the bolts while you are putting it back together.
 

Black dawg

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I'm not sure if the flywheel bolts would leak this much or not. I've never seen an engine without sealer on those bolts.

I have seen plenty with no sealer, and they do have some oil weep out to the bolt head, just enough to look slightly oily around the bolts...…..if they are tight.
 

Andrew Sang

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Thanks guys. I put some stop leak in. Looks like the RMS leak is a lot smaller now, but there is still an oil leak from above, which I suspect is a turbo feed line. I'll look into dealing with this.
 

IDIBRONCO

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but there is still an oil leak from above, which I suspect is a turbo feed line. I'll look into dealing with this.
If you have a Factory Turbo or an ATS 093, the oil feed line uses an olive on each end.they could need to be replaced or you may be able to tighten the nuts down a little bit tighter and stop the leak.
 

Andrew Sang

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If you have a Factory Turbo or an ATS 093, the oil feed line uses an olive on each end.they could need to be replaced or you may be able to tighten the nuts down a little bit tighter and stop the leak.
I'm pretty sure it's coming from the turbo, since the valve covers don't seem likely to leak upwards. Here are some pictures from under the turbo. The orange thing is the hot side of the turbo. Sorry about questionable quality pics, it's a tight squeeze. What should I adjust to tighten the oil feed line?

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IDIBRONCO

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What should I adjust to tighten the oil feed line?
Well that blew my suggestion out the window. You don't have the factory steel oil feed line that uses an olive at each end to seal. Yours is soft copper with compression fittings. It wouldn't do much good to post the pictures of my 093 since somebody decided to use the first gen Banks oil feed line from the other turbo. This was all done before I bought the truck and I'm going to leave it like it is.
 

Andrew Sang

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Gotcha. Hmm not quite sure what to do then. I'll just have to see where the oil is dripping from and slather a metric ton of RTV black on that guy
 

IDIBRONCO

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Maybe you can wipe off all of the oil that you can reach. Then let the engine idle while looking around with an inspection mirror. Maybe that will help you see where the oil is leaking from.
 

Andrew Sang

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A few updates: I've figured out it's not a turbo leak. Likely just a busted CDR spewing oil mist out, plus a valve cover gasket leak, in addition to the RMS leak
 
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