Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

Greg5OH

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"nice" is a relative term.
Exterior and interior look quite shoddy,
I would call it "rugged"
But I would also describe it as nice..nicely equipped!
05 SD axles, disc brakes, hydroboost, NV4500, NP205, Ppump cummins.. its an excellent chassis.
The beauty of trucks are they are modular. can realisticaly stick any body on any chassis.

My dream has always to stick a 79 ford crewcab on there...
 

SDEconVan

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Sounding like my sentiments, I just acquired a '96 5.9L p-pump. Already have the 6-speed Allison 1000 (I'm going with auto.) Trying to sort out the transfer case choices... ...will be watching how you do on the other thread! Thx, George
 

Greg5OH

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Cummins pull kicked my ass. at the 3 hour mark i had everythign fully unbolted and ready to pull. The actual pull took me an additional 3.5 hours.
Either have to drop teh trans or take oil pan off. Like 45 bolts on that sun of a *****!
Even so since its 2wd you cant get enough angle on it without the tailshaft hitting the ground, so i edned up torching out the engien cross member mounting ears.
Other than the shenanigans to pull that thing out of there, the rest of a dodge is pretty nicely put together, very easy to access everything.

long ass SOB.
My chevy 4x2 tailhousign and mainshaft jsut came in the mail though so shoudl shorten up the whole package 6-7".

Goal is to not have to move the tcase..thats a whole lotta time and $$ in driveshafts.
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Greg5OH

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mocked up. With the chev tailhousing it looks like I will have 6.25" yoke c-2-c. shortest slip shaft i can possibly get is 6" should be just enough I hope.

Before i pulled the IDI rad etc out i marked the bottom and top where it lies in relation to the frame and fenders. this is with the cummins fan line on line. This is approx 3/4" at closest to the rad.

However I have now decided to use the cummins rad, IC and condenser. it offers a tighter package. Will allow me to use stock AC lines as well.
Tighest part is turbine housing to the evap core housing..very close... But enough room to stick a turbo blanket over it. the one I ran on the S366 was very good, I could keep my hand right on it after running the truck to 1000 EGT.

The idi rad and 6.0 intercooler are larger units but..I dont really hear of ram guys complaining of insufficient cooling and super high EGTS (unless its a maxed stock turbo).

Have to modify my core support, but that thing is a nasty hacked up ****** anyway, so no worries. Will give me time to brace it up some more. I made it originally just as a place holder but ended up running it for 2 years...

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Greg5OH

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Still greasy, hoping the paint just kinda..forma a shell over it all.
Did the kdp as well/
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Greg5OH

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hows this for a super short driveshaft. coudl get .2" shorter if i went 1350 but ill take the extra strenght of 1410. Currently my tcase input is 1350, if i break the conversion joint ill upgrade to the 1410 input yoke but for now im sure it will be ok. just under 6" full compression. I measured 6.25" on the safe side of my working length.

Currently pulling apart my dodge trans, and then strip the chev mainshaft of the gears witht he bearing splitter i borrowed from works.

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Greg5OH

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had some block and crossmember plates ,milled up at work. Waiting on the DIY4X mounts to come in so I can get this thing settled into the frame. Also waiting on somesynchro rings and tonight will have both shafts fully torn down, and assembled to as far as I can without having the rings. Hate waiting on parts! Parts should wait on me!. Also decided on a 4" downpipe, got a cool 3" to 4" cone vs just a regular reducer cone. Considering swapping the rear output flange housign to full 4" but cheaper/easier to jsut do 3" v band out to 4" downpipe.
I have 3 full days after xmas to work on this pig. mon-wed. Motor moutns scheduled for tuesday, hoping earlier. Trans parts..no idea yet.

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Greg5OH

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got both shafts torn apart. new sycnrhos and 5 qt amsoil will be in on saturday. Monday put it all back together and paint it!.

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Greg5OH

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waiting on some countershaft shims to come in. Got the mainshaft shimmed to .002, everything feels and looks good in there. Had to make a gear installer, thanfully alreayd had the output nut so was able to cobble some presses together. new oil pan and pick up on, i lost my input pilot bushign and new flywheel bolts..sthey are busried somehwre in the mess I am sure. Maybe i will find them this morning...still unsture if i should runthe small needle bearing tht so many report fail, or the oilinite bushing...if i can find it..
motor mounts are going in today, engien should be in as well.
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goood paint
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Greg5OH

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got a bunch of work done over 3 dy break, was suppoed to have a full work day yesterdaybut busted y dominant hand up pretty good ATVing over new years. Work was slow but trans is all shimmed to .002 though clearance, jsut gotta pop the 5th cluster back on seal it and reattach.

pilot bearings: this is the NV4500 weak point...i purchased a new needle bearing...it is a joke. I have never seen such a small pilot needle bearing on anythign I have worked on...Nope aint runing it as the first 5 pages of google are all people complainig the stock needle bearing sezied, and y buddy with a 3rd getn had first hand expereince with this.

the Luk clutch kit came with a bushing but was the wrong one...for a 1st gen flywheel, but they send a 2nd gen...i think i actually did have another bushing along with new FW bolts but musthave swept e into garbage by accident.

Anyway, I ordered a PTFE embedded oillite plus bushing from mcmaster. 1" OD .75" ID .002 shaft clearance and .002" press fit. ONly difference is this had a 0.2" thick flange vs teh one that was sent was 0.1" but measuring everythign up from mountnig face of bell to bell adapter, it looks like this bushing will be just fine, everything is line on line, Im thinking this may help input shaft stability as it has a "thrust" face bushing infront of it now too.

The oillite bushings are very cool, SAE 80 wt impregnated, and teh PTFE preggo ones are even nicer as the PTFE helps keep the shaft lubed below 10F until the bushing is warm enough to let teh oil flow. Good for constant shutdown/startups.
hoping to retest fit the trans on block tonight and put the whole deal back in.
Motor mounts are done minus fully welding one...tacked in place at least.

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pilot length:
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0.2" to tip
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new mcmaster bushing 0.1" to tip. Looks to me as though the entire load bearing part of the shaft is fully supported now with this bushing too..
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motor mounts...really need to get some gas on this welder..flux is getting old.
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Greg5OH

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all in snug as a bug.
2 issues: core support with front end stuff is stupid tight.. need to get clever,
shifter exits underneath the bench seat almost...need to come up with a nice extension somehow that doesnt interfere and doesnt end up with a 4' long throw.

trans CS and MS shimmed to .002-.003" of end play. right on the money. can see the sintered ceramic clutch peeking in the back
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all in and buttoned down, minus the trans cross memebr which I will be working on tonight.
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Greg5OH

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my wife and a few freinds are going to the WHite Rim Trail in Moab 3rd week of March, naturally I am taking the big truck through there :D will be tight and hairy I am sure, but I have been dreaming of this since teh day I comitted to go 4x4! Just wish i had front and rear torson diffs but what I have now will have to do becuse I dont have that kind of $$ laying around!
I do need a spare wheel adn tire though..woudl be foolish to go without a spare.
and a good tire patch kit is a must!
 

Greg5OH

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trans mount is done. Used some bolt thru sandwich moutns from Mcmaster, 165 lbs rating a piece. if they give me issues ill upgrade to the 720 lbs a piece capacity units. I dont belive the trans mount really sees much loading unless the motor mount dies. With poly sleeve type mounts for the engine, I dont see them failing for a long long time.

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The entire cummisn front end package fits in quite nice now that I am making a new core support from scratch. Welded new frame mounts for the core support, using 1st gen cummins engine mounts to act as the core support mounts. Slotted frame moutns so the whole thing just slides in from the front.
Stock overflow and washer bottles with stock fan shroud. Only need to make 1 conversion line for the AC now, and the rad hoses package very nice compared to if i were to use IDI stuff.
Using IDI rad half would be covered by bumper and the fan would be above the top tank.
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Greg5OH

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Front core support is finally all tacked together including the battery tray supports. All thats left is make the littel bracket for the hood latch to bolt to, slide the whole deal out and seam weld it all up. So far everything seems to have a perfect fit!

The best part is all the room I have gained under the frame. Before the IDI rad was where that lower support on the frame was. Now I can easily make a new bumper that sits a good 5-6" higher, and could integrate the winch right in that open area.

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