Ok, here's mine.
Let's start with the rabs valve itself. Look at the picture of the installed rabs delete, above. You see those two fittings on the valve, that the brake lines screw into? I pulled those, to take them to town with me, to be sure I got the right fittings, in town.
Here are those two fittings. The threaded portion of these is hydraulic. Not brakes. Not NPT, but hydraulic. If you have a hydraulic shop in your town, you may actually get lucky enough to find a fitting that those two will screw into the ends of,, and then you are finished!!!
Nearest hydraulic shop to me is in everett. I didn't want to drive all the way out there in just the hopes that I would find something. Maybe next week.
POINT: The brake line nuts are confirmed to be 3/8 - 24. And 1/2 -20. You want to find inverted flare fittings that those will fit into. Also note that they MUST be for a 3/16" line or tube. The shops have tons of them for larger sizes. And no shortage of the 3/8 -24 flares for 3/16 line. But the 1/2 -20 flares made for 3/16 line are almost unobtanium.
Now here is the bypass that I built from fittings I found in town. Note that the only 1/2 - 20 inverted flare that I could find between here and snohomish, was not 1/4 NPT on the threaded portion. It was 5/16 NPT. I had to buy a die, and change the threads to 1/4 NPT. Because the die bottomed out before many threads were formed, I only succeeded in getting maybe 4 threads into the 1/4 elbow.
I did use the liquid thread sealer intended for brakes and hydraulics. And it is pretty tight. So maybe it will be fine. But I am not counting on it. Ergo, probably going to find a hydraulic shop instead, next week, and see what I can do with those fittings out of the rabs valve itself. In the meantime, I am going to be treating the brakes gingerly.
Now here is my bypass, installed.
Note that I am also under no delusion that those giant wire ties are going to last. I just wanted to do something to reduce vibration as much as I could.
In addition to finding a hydraulic shop next week, I may just get online and order all the CORRECT fittings, to build this again, but with all correct, and correctly fitting, pieces.
Last... I am considering taking that RABS valve off of there. Dismantling it. And seeing if there is some way that we could just drill and/or tap a hole somewhere inside the valve body. To install a 1/8NPT plug, or smaller, to essentially turn the valve itself into that simple bypass.
Let's start with the rabs valve itself. Look at the picture of the installed rabs delete, above. You see those two fittings on the valve, that the brake lines screw into? I pulled those, to take them to town with me, to be sure I got the right fittings, in town.
Here are those two fittings. The threaded portion of these is hydraulic. Not brakes. Not NPT, but hydraulic. If you have a hydraulic shop in your town, you may actually get lucky enough to find a fitting that those two will screw into the ends of,, and then you are finished!!!
You must be registered for see images attach
Nearest hydraulic shop to me is in everett. I didn't want to drive all the way out there in just the hopes that I would find something. Maybe next week.
POINT: The brake line nuts are confirmed to be 3/8 - 24. And 1/2 -20. You want to find inverted flare fittings that those will fit into. Also note that they MUST be for a 3/16" line or tube. The shops have tons of them for larger sizes. And no shortage of the 3/8 -24 flares for 3/16 line. But the 1/2 -20 flares made for 3/16 line are almost unobtanium.
Now here is the bypass that I built from fittings I found in town. Note that the only 1/2 - 20 inverted flare that I could find between here and snohomish, was not 1/4 NPT on the threaded portion. It was 5/16 NPT. I had to buy a die, and change the threads to 1/4 NPT. Because the die bottomed out before many threads were formed, I only succeeded in getting maybe 4 threads into the 1/4 elbow.
You must be registered for see images attach
I did use the liquid thread sealer intended for brakes and hydraulics. And it is pretty tight. So maybe it will be fine. But I am not counting on it. Ergo, probably going to find a hydraulic shop instead, next week, and see what I can do with those fittings out of the rabs valve itself. In the meantime, I am going to be treating the brakes gingerly.
Now here is my bypass, installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Note that I am also under no delusion that those giant wire ties are going to last. I just wanted to do something to reduce vibration as much as I could.
In addition to finding a hydraulic shop next week, I may just get online and order all the CORRECT fittings, to build this again, but with all correct, and correctly fitting, pieces.
Last... I am considering taking that RABS valve off of there. Dismantling it. And seeing if there is some way that we could just drill and/or tap a hole somewhere inside the valve body. To install a 1/8NPT plug, or smaller, to essentially turn the valve itself into that simple bypass.
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