pulls on the 26th

[sootman73]

i want to do two things by the saturday of the 26th.

1. body lift with hockey pucks. 2 hi.

2. downpipe replacement with three in flex and heat wrap.

any suggestions on either of these thinsg and what do i have to take into consideration doing this?

the body lift i'm curious as to if i have to replace the body mounts because they might not come apart due to age and rust?

the downpipe i'm not so concerned with. i just want to do it after the body lift cuz i'll have more clearance then.

 

[hesutton]

Ben, you may need longer bolts for the cab and bed after the two inch body lift. I cannot remember, but I don't think there is enough extra length on the stock fasteners. I'd get the bolt from Fastenal, not Tractor Supply and the like. Their Grade 8 stuff is poor at best.

There is a Fastenal in Wauseon, but you already know that I'm sure.
1369 N. Shoop Ave
Wauseon, OH 43567
P: (419)335-0758
F: (419)335-0834


Heath

 

[Ironman03R]

My experiance with body lifts is most times by the time you get all the parts rounded up for a pieced together one you could have bought the kit that has it all there. Maybe the newer Ford kits are more I dont know since I've only ever done them on old chevys. Also while your in there put new poly mounts in unless your replacing the mount alltogether with pucks. I say poly because thats what I've used in the past and had good luck with them, I want rubber ones for my crew cab but dont wana spend that kind of money. IF I ever get to working on the 92, it will have poly mounts and a body lift of some type.

 

[sootman73]

so i can just pull the bolt out through the mount? i've never looked real close at them. i think they are sagging as it look like i have a bent frame where the bed and cab come together?

 

[Ironman03R]

The bolts come out through the top, you need to pull back the carpet and they are under an access plug. Good luck with the front core support ones, they are usually rusted into the bushings, have a torch or sawsall handy.

 

[sootman73]

The bolts come out through the top, you need to pull back the carpet and they are under an access plug. Good luck with the front core support ones, they are usually rusted into the bushings, have a torch or sawsall handy.

okay. i wanted to pull the carpet out anyway to power wash it. they come back to life if you pressure wash all the dirt out of them. friend of mine did it to his and i thought he put new carpet in!

ya i have both of those and know how to use them

whats the best way to lift the body? i have floor jacks and a high lift?

 

[Fullsize4life]

okay. i wanted to pull the carpet out anyway to power wash it. they come back to life if you pressure wash all the dirt out of them. friend of mine did it to his and i thought he put new carpet in!

ya i have both of those and know how to use them

whats the best way to lift the body? i have floor jacks and a high lift?

Dont.

 

[mark7.3idi]

Also a pull this weekend at williams county fair. I am also pulling at the one in fulton and williams with my new 6.2 k5.

 

[sootman73]

Dont.

why shouldn't i lift the body? for $50 i can lift it two inches and can then work on lots of hard to reach places much easier such as the turbo and everything on the back of the engine.

i should be putting a suspension lift on it then are you saying? dont want to replace a bunch of new springs and suspension parts. plus i want stock running gear. just a litle more clearance for tires and what i mentioned before.

 

[Agnem]

I did the hockey puck lift because I didn't want a full 2" lift. If you want to go 2" spend the money on a kit. The hockey pucks will probably be too soft if double stacked. Those who have had even a single lift puck, report that they have cracked out with age.

 

[WrickM]

O.K. I really want o do a body lift to make my diesel F250 bigger than modern rangers. I looked on ebay without luck. Lots of lift kits but none for diesels so that's my first question. Where can i b uy a nice kit.
Second, i don't really do suspension yet. I mean i can tear an engine down to it's core. Explains the difference in fuction and efficiency between a roots and a twin screw blower, and even give cam grind advice, but ask me about how a vehicle rides on the road and my best answer is. . . on tires? So is there a good tutorial or book about this stuff specifcally adding body lifts.

yes i am one of those sad souls who learned to work on cars by reading manuals. . .

Thanks

 

[sootman73]

exactly. all the body lift kits say no diesels. i dont want to chance buying a kit just for it o not work. this discussion has been brought up before and everyone in it agreed that two was safe enough as they are actually really hard? and how long does it take for them to crack out? a year or more? whats $30 for pucks and bolts every 18 months?

 

[sle2115]

IIRC the kits don't work for the same reason the hockey pucks will have issues, the radiator fan shroud being the issue. I can't see it being a big issue to move it down the amount of the lift, but I may be missing something. I'm going to do a 2" lift as well, but the "when" is the question. Looks to me like you can slide the shroud down two inches, drill two new holes per side and be ready to go. I've not taken measurements and am not sure if the shroud would then be open at the bottom. If it is, a sheet of body metal could be fabricated to seal off the opening, or better yet, electric fans! I know some are using them with success, so it is possible after all.

 

[hesutton]

Good point Scotty. I completely forgot about the fan shroud. I just used a Sawsall to "trim" the bottom of the shroud just enough to clear the fan. Moving it might be the best soultion, but I like cutting stuff I guess. No cooling issue as of yet (3 years ago).

Heath

 

[Agnem]

Actually the reason those kits say not for diesels, is because of the engine. Specifically, the drivers side head. At or around the 2" mark, the head will come into contact with the firewall. Doesn't make sense I know, but having put body lifts on 3 trucks, I can guarantee you this is the reason. On a 2" kit, you can ignore this warning, and just live with a little bit of rubbing in reverse or on hard decel. I've never tried to make a 4" work, but you would most certainly have to do some sheet metal work.