Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

Thewespaul

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If you were wondering what a turbo wheel looks like after 20k with no filter.
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Oil drain back on, I like to put an o ring on the base of the drain to help seal against the grommet.
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Everything back together
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Kept blowing the boot off the ported intake hat so pulled it back off and cut some notches in it for the boot to grip on, then gave it a good coating of some interior trim adhesive
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Thewespaul

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Took the truck out and setup the camera to get y’all some “Mexico” videos but it blew off around 15 psi.
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bbjordan

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I want one that reads off egts instead of boost

I was thinking of doing the same thing, so I got an Auber EGT gauge:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=19

"The programmable alarm will turn on a blue LED in the front panel to get the driver's attention if the temperature/pressure is above the setting point. It will also close a relay output port that can be used to turn on a buzzer, shut off the fuel, or turn on a cooling fan." :sly
 

austin92

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Nothing special, just a 150 psi pump, a 2 gallon tank, some old nitrous lines, a nitrous fuel solenoid. I control it with a Hobbs switch and wot switch. It’s just extra parts I had laying around, which has kinda been the theme with this truck.

As far as triggering from egt you’re going to have to buy an expensive name brand kit for that, but I’m working on something that may work for you, just gotta make a thread about some electronics questions I have, if I’m not too far off course with my idea a modified fipl should be able to signal different stages of water **** or nitrous just by reading the voltage output.

Did you do a write up on your set up? I’m not sure what the Hobbs switch is but a wot switch would be helpful except when towing. I’m not always at wot when egts get hot. What type of electricals are you curious on?

I was thinking of doing the same thing, so I got an Auber EGT gauge:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=19

"The programmable alarm will turn on a blue LED in the front panel to get the driver's attention if the temperature/pressure is above the setting point. It will also close a relay output port that can be used to turn on a buzzer, shut off the fuel, or turn on a cooling fan." :sly

I already have all those gauges but that is pretty much what I’m looking for. I saw where it says it works with all thermo couplers so could I just splice in to my autometers wire?


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bbjordan

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Not trying to hi-jack, but I think splicing into the thermo-couple wire is a no-no. I'm no expert in this area. Maybe someone who is will chime in?
 

austin92

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Not trying to hi-jack, but I think splicing into the thermo-couple wire is a no-no. I'm no expert in this area. Maybe someone who is will chime in?
I know your not supposed to change length so my plan was to go right from the back of the gauge and not strip any insulation. Hell that might be a no-no too lol


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Thewespaul

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As long as you don’t change the length you’ll be fine

Here’s a link to the electronics questions https://www.oilburners.net/threads/electronics-questions.84049/unread

I don’t have a write up but I guess I could if y’all are interested. A Hobbs switch is just an adjustable pressure switch, I’m using it to only engage water **** injection once it sees X amount of boost, that way it’s impossible for it to fill the engine with water with the engine off.
 

Thewespaul

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Well I welded a bead around the inlet of the hat and no more exploding elephant trunk action.

Actually dry today so got to take it out and use the go pedal, seems to be running a tad better, egts are down but it is cooler today. Starting to slip in fourth if I’m too aggressive on the power shift, going to need to upgrade the clutch (again) soon since this is fuel only, no **** or No2. Hopefully it holds out long enough for the dyno.
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Forgot to mention I took the fan off a week or so ago, been running it daily with no fan with no temp issues, barely gets above 190 with the hammer down or sitting in dead traffic. Only 50-60* here so I’m pretty happy with that, I’d say the cooling mod works.
 

laserjock

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I know your not supposed to change length so my plan was to go right from the back of the gauge and not strip any insulation. Hell that might be a no-no too lol


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The length doesn’t matter. What you can’t do is splice in copper wire and have it read right. As long as it’s the correct thermocouple wire you can add on (to a point) or shorten. Thermocouples work by reading the voltage induced at the joint where two different metals touch. That resistance is temperature sensitive (as pretty much all resistors are). That really small voltage is what your gauges read.
 

FordGuy100

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I ran no fan for a year or two when I lived in Tyler. The only time I had a problem was in stop and go traffic in the summer. IIRC anything over 5-10 mph would keep coolant temps at 190*, even in the 100*+ temps.
 

Thewespaul

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Tyler Texas? I’ll probably setup and electric fan setup for the summer to help the ac behind the intercooler
 

FordGuy100

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Yup, lived there for 4 years. My AC was inop at that time, so it wasn't a concern. I could see AC problem occurring at low speeds and more of a coolant temp problem as well if AC was to be used with no fan.
 

Goose_ss4

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The plungers are the limitation, in a db2 it is built around two .310” plungers that move the fuel. With some internal changes and a stage three leaf spring I’ve gotten 130cc out of a db2. I’m working on a db4 that should hopefully break into the 210cc range. That’s enough for 600hp, and I’ve still got the 3208 pump conversion in the works, just saving up for all the cnc work.


Willing to share more on the pump parts interchange?

Could it be simple mods like we just did a fuel pump, gov spring, and advance timing spacer on my dad's cummins
 
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Thewespaul

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I absolutely agree, which is why I’ve been trying to put info out like the tuning guide. The db4 hybrid is a complicated package and I haven’t been able to work all the bugs out of it, but once I do and testing goes well, I’ll make it available and put out all the info for what goes into making 4 plungers work in a db2 case.

Edit to answer the edited question:
It’s not simple stuff like gov springs. It’s more of taking parts from three pumps, trying to replicate factory specs for pressures and testing over and over on the test bench. I think it would be possible for a regular guy to put it together if they knew these pumps well and had a parts list of what to use but the calibration part of it takes a lot of work.
 
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