Pre-Cup Needed

[OLDBULL8]

Inconel alloys are oxidation and corrosion-resistant materials well suited for service in extreme environments subjected to high pressure and kinetic energy. When heated, Inconel forms a thick, stable, passivating oxide layer protecting the surface from further attack. Inconel retains strength over a wide temperature range, attractive for high temperature applications where aluminum and steel would succumb to creep as a result of thermally-induced crystal vacancies (see Arrhenius equation). Inconel's high temperature strength is developed by solid solution strengthening or precipitation strengthening, depending on the alloy. In age hardening or precipitation strengthening varieties, small amounts of niobium combine with nickel to form the intermetallic compound Ni3Nb or gamma prime (γ'). Gamma prime forms small cubic crystals that inhibit slip and creep effectively at elevated temperatures.[10] The formation of gamma prime crystals increases over time, especially after three hours of a heat exposure of 850 C, and continues to grow after 72 hours of exposure.[

 

[JosieGallows]

Josiegallows... I tig welded inconel on major steam turbine rotors and stationary diaphragms for 3 years. It does not crack now does it wear of like steel thats magnetic. Steam will cut it but it takes many more years to do that. Steam will cut stellite too but it takes a long time to do that too. I ported some Dieselcast Welding precups and they sure are inconel. That was 9 years ago now. You may be correct with what they are selling now but not what they sold back then. I still have one of those heads but its cracked from reaching over 300 degrees when a freeze plug poped out pulling the Grapevine grade. That engine had 5200 miles on it after a full rebuild with lots of machine work done like line boring and block decking plus sleeving all 8 cylinders.

The cups I got from Dieselcastwelding had some rust on them. They were Steel.

All new precups are offshore and are usually steel.

 

[icanfixall]

The cups I got from Dieselcastwelding had some rust on them. They were Steel.

All new precups are offshore and are usually steel.

I'm betting you did not know 400 series stainless steel will rust and its magnetic too.

 

[JosieGallows]

I'm betting you did not know 400 series stainless steel will rust and its magnetic too.

Why did they stop making them out of Inconel and started using steel?

 

[icanfixall]

Why did they stop making them out of Inconel and started using steel?

You appear to want to argue this so I'm done with discussing this any longer. I do appreciate your imput. You have caused me to investigate deeper the subject here.

 

[79jasper]

Looked like a genuine question to me.
I'd like to know also.

My guess would be cost.

What would cause a cup to slip out of the head? Lol
Obviously looseness, but what would cause that?


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[19887.3IDI]

Well I got a matching pre-cup, installed it and it is flush with the head surface. I then reassembled the engine and fired it up and it still shakes the same. Needless to say I'm starting to get frustrated with this thing. I messed with injectors some more buy finding one from my spare sets I have laying around and put it in cylinder #1 and started it and still ran the same so I put the one I took from #1 and put it in #2 and so on I did that for all the cylinders and it didn't effect the shaking at all. I am pretty sure its only one cylinder that is causing this but I cant determine which one. If I loosen the injection lines one at a time they all seem to effect the engine the same way. All 3 pumps (the one that came with the engine from jasper, the used one I got from eBay and the reman from USDieselparts) make the engine shake the exact same. I seems strange that 3 pumps would have the same problem but with my luck I wouldn't be surprised. I think I'll get in touch with Conestoga Diesel and see if they will take a look at the pump I got from USDieselparts to see if they can find something wrong with it.

Other than that I have no idea what is going on.

I appreciate your help so far and if you have anymore ideas or anything please let me know. Thank You

 

[riotwarrior]

CAM timing gear?

Clearly something is not as it should. What about balancing engine, could be one rod piston assembly is off more than acceptable.

I cannot think of anything other than balance myself.

 

[19887.3IDI]

Would that make that slight chuff in the exhaust? Because if I put my hand up to the exhaust I can feel that there is something different with one cylinder from all the others.
speedwrench72 on FTE suggested that there could be a lobe down on the cam so ill degree it and see if I can find any that are down.

 

[typ4]

have you done a compression test???

 

[19887.3IDI]

Yes the lowest is 500psi and the highest is 515psi and all the others are pretty much right at 500psi I am going to double check that though. I wouldn't think 15 psi difference would cause it to shake as bad as it does you can stand back and watch the whole truck shake.

 

[riotwarrior]

chuff on exhaust...do a search on that ROFL I've had a bit of experience there I'd say.

Also if you are cuffing, which I doubt it's good chance guide wear.

I was speaking about the balancing of rotating and reciprocating masses actually.

Lobe on cam I don't think so as they are a roller cam, however maybe it's getting wiped out or a lifter is, but maybe a worn trunion on a rocker pedestal or rocker arm could affect it.


Is cam stock or aftermarket?

Al

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

This says a lot right here: "that came with the engine from jasper" Being a production line rebuilder they have a reputation for things that work but cause issues like this. For one thing the rods came from a pile of rods, not from one engine. And they have been caught boring cylinders different sizes. So it could be you can't solve it without a teardown.
On another note my 6.9 was rebuilt by me, and the only thing that didn't get done was balancing. It has this exact shake you are describing and I have been through everything. It has been sitting around with 3,000 miles on it but I have done everything short of tearing it down again and it still does it.

 

[79jasper]

There was a member here that had a jasper engine installed.
Thing had quite a few problems.
It even ran away a few times.




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[19887.3IDI]

chuff on exhaust...do a search on that ROFL I've had a bit of experience there I'd say.

Also if you are cuffing, which I doubt it's good chance guide wear.

I was speaking about the balancing of rotating and reciprocating masses actually.

Lobe on cam I don't think so as they are a roller cam, however maybe it's getting wiped out or a lifter is, but maybe a worn trunion on a rocker pedestal or rocker arm could affect it.


Is cam stock or aftermarket?

Al

Its not a full chuff its very slight. The valve guides are good I checked that when I had the heads off. I also lapped the valves.

As far as I know the cam is stock its the same one as jasper put in.

I did put a new set of lifters in but it still shakes. I did notice less lifter chatter with the new lifters though.