1996 F350 7.3 psd zf5 4x4
Efuel, mle1, new ipr, icp, ebps, map, cps, tps, nss, hpop, injectors,
I bought a truck in pieces and been putting it back together.
It runs, it boosts, I don't have any oil or fuel leaks.
However, I have 10 second crank times.
If I pull the lines at the heads, cap one, and gauge the other I build pressure after 10 seconds...but at KO I lose it all.
I literally can't drive the thing anywhere because 10 seconds of cranking is too much cranking.
HPOP is eBay off a working truck, IPR is eBay off a different working truck (is OEM, not an Amazon/Chinese knockoff), it can't be bleeding at the injectors because it's deadheaded.
That only leaves a hairline crack in the front cover, right? The check ball valve and seat under the hpop near the driver side head is a LPO check ball it can't be bleeding HPO, and my HPOP reservoir stays full anyway.
What are my options here... Replacing the front cover for diagnostic purposes is tough to commit to.. but my HPOP and IPR are "working" from eBay, the antidrain back would take the reservoir, not the high pressure side, obviously HPOP base gasket is new,
I'm tempted to hotwire the IPR so it stays live overnight so I don't have 10-15 second crank times.. need a real solution, help please.
Efuel, mle1, new ipr, icp, ebps, map, cps, tps, nss, hpop, injectors,
I bought a truck in pieces and been putting it back together.
It runs, it boosts, I don't have any oil or fuel leaks.
However, I have 10 second crank times.
If I pull the lines at the heads, cap one, and gauge the other I build pressure after 10 seconds...but at KO I lose it all.
I literally can't drive the thing anywhere because 10 seconds of cranking is too much cranking.
HPOP is eBay off a working truck, IPR is eBay off a different working truck (is OEM, not an Amazon/Chinese knockoff), it can't be bleeding at the injectors because it's deadheaded.
That only leaves a hairline crack in the front cover, right? The check ball valve and seat under the hpop near the driver side head is a LPO check ball it can't be bleeding HPO, and my HPOP reservoir stays full anyway.
What are my options here... Replacing the front cover for diagnostic purposes is tough to commit to.. but my HPOP and IPR are "working" from eBay, the antidrain back would take the reservoir, not the high pressure side, obviously HPOP base gasket is new,
I'm tempted to hotwire the IPR so it stays live overnight so I don't have 10-15 second crank times.. need a real solution, help please.
