Positive Battery Cable
- Thread starter 79GLIDE
- Start date
yah,,head for your favorite local semi tractor place..unless the ends of the cables are totally rotted,,they can crimp new ends on,,right on the vehicle!! cost much less than 100,,and the ends they use,,are zinc coated copper!! i use the same ends....
Last edited:
Matrix37495
The Amish Wolfman
I had mine built at NAPA. 2/0 between batteries and 3/0 to the starter for about $95....
Make sure they do a good job sealing the ends though.... they didnt on mine and i had to fix one of the ends.....
Make sure they do a good job sealing the ends though.... they didnt on mine and i had to fix one of the ends.....
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
I wish I had used studded batteries.. I crimped my own cable ends and sealed with shrink tubing.
Matrix37495
The Amish Wolfman
Me too. My next set will be since i already have G31s...
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
I found a brand new one at our local salvage yard. Musta been trying to get over a hard start problem before they got frustrated and junked it.
mobilemech
Full Access Member
check with the Interstate battery dealer in your area, they have the possitive cable for around 75.00 and it is 2/0 size, OEM quality.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
- Posts
- 4,702
- Reaction score
- 142
That silly mid-cable positive terminal was Ford's way of saving a few dollars per truck; it definitely IS NOT good practice and SHOULD NOT be replaced with the same style.
It is far better to make TWO separate cables, one from battery to battery, and a bigger one from the second battery to the starter.
This is simple with threaded-stud batteries.
With lead-post batteries, make the cables the same as for the threaded-stud batteries and use either marine-style terminals or military terminals, either of which include a threaded bolt for copper-lug attachment.
Thus, when it is time for new batteries, the copper-lug terminals/cables are already right there.
No way would I throw good money after another of those mid-terminal cables.
It is far better to make TWO separate cables, one from battery to battery, and a bigger one from the second battery to the starter.
This is simple with threaded-stud batteries.
With lead-post batteries, make the cables the same as for the threaded-stud batteries and use either marine-style terminals or military terminals, either of which include a threaded bolt for copper-lug attachment.
Thus, when it is time for new batteries, the copper-lug terminals/cables are already right there.
No way would I throw good money after another of those mid-terminal cables.
Last edited:
mobilemech
Full Access Member
That silly mid-cable positive terminal was Ford's way of saving a few dollars per truck; it definitely IS NOT good practice and SHOULD NOT be replaced with the same style.
It is far better to either make TWO separate cables, one from battery to battery, and a bigger one from the second battery to the starter.
This is simple with threaded-stud batteries.
With lead-post batteries, make the cables the same as for the threaded-stud batteries and use either marine-style terminals or military terminals, either of which include a threaded bolt for copper-lug attachment.
Thus, when it is time for new batteries, the copper-lug terminals/cables are already right there.
No way would I throw good money after another of those mid-terminal cables.
Agreed, there are better ways to make the pos. cable. The way I took the original post, he was looking for a OEM style cable, just providing another source. The military style terminals and lugged cables are a far better way to set up the pos. cable.
cbarm
Full Access Member
Maybe a guy could go to a semi truck wrecker and get the starter cables from one of those...plenty big enough, plenty long enough and dirt cheap I bet...
Matrix37495
The Amish Wolfman
2/0 minimum.... i run 3/0 from the pass batt to the starter...
89greendiesel
Full Access Member
http://custombatterycables.com
Bought a new set from them and haven't had a problem since. Big green cranks over like it's nobody's business!
Bought a new set from them and haven't had a problem since. Big green cranks over like it's nobody's business!
MIDNIGHT RIDER
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
- Posts
- 4,702
- Reaction score
- 142
Overkill is always good; but, 1/0 cable, factory location or way back under the bed somewhere, is plenty sufficient to crank one of these little bitty engines in the coldest of times.
Most multi-batteried big-trucks will have either 2/0 or 3/0 and their engines are huge in comparison.
The starter cables on big 16- and 20-cylinder locomotive prime-movers are usually either 3/0 or 4/0; I once worked as a locomotive attendant and have started many of these engines.
I have 2/0 on my truck with remote-mounted batteries and it is way more than necessary.
More important than bigger-than-necessary cable is clean secure connections everywhere, both HOT and GROUND.
I see way more terminals burnt off than I ever see cables melted.
Considering all that, there is no harm in using bigger cable.
Most multi-batteried big-trucks will have either 2/0 or 3/0 and their engines are huge in comparison.
The starter cables on big 16- and 20-cylinder locomotive prime-movers are usually either 3/0 or 4/0; I once worked as a locomotive attendant and have started many of these engines.
I have 2/0 on my truck with remote-mounted batteries and it is way more than necessary.
More important than bigger-than-necessary cable is clean secure connections everywhere, both HOT and GROUND.
I see way more terminals burnt off than I ever see cables melted.
Considering all that, there is no harm in using bigger cable.
