play in differential

69oiler

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my differential has slop where the driveshaft enters it. if i grab the yoke and turn/shake it there is play both in and out of the pumpkin and the other way, like a loose bearing. is there a nut or something i can tighten or a bearing i can replace, or is the diff shot? :dunno

there is also a loud whirring/humming on deceleration, seems like its coming from the rear pumpkin. i'm guessing the looseness in the pumpkin is the cause.
 

typ4

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your pinion nut is loose, tighten it and then get a shop to put in a new crush sleeve and necessary bearings. The noise is the pinion rubbing the carrier on decel.

Dont take this wrong but if you dont know what is causing this ,fixing may be beyond your scope. If you want to tackle it, ask away ,it really isnt that difficult with a book.
 

69oiler

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i'm no gear expert, i've heard that it's best for a pro to set gears up. i just want to fix it as cheaply as i can.
 

69oiler

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if i tighten the nut and then do nothing what will happen? the nut will keep coming loose? or will the rear axle fall out from under the truck
 

typ4

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it wont need set up, the shims arent getting changed, tighten it and keep an eye on it, i check mine monthly, they loosen when you work them, also the splines wear in the yoke.
 

k_williams1982

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I had the same thing happen on my '91 F150 with a 300cid "6". Dropped the driveline and tightened the nut. Checked it about once a month and it stayed tight for me. I sold the truck, so I don't know if it's ever been tightened again since.
 

Agnem

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Wow Rob, you got a tag on that thing already?? LOL
 

69oiler

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yes,i got a 30 day tag for it..like i said before i can put it to work immediately as soon as the worst of the kinks are ironed out. it's insured, too.

i'l need to do the return lines before it goes anywgere. i have not been able to get it started since sunday...and i think that starter is about done.

it's all good...
 

hesutton

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So the old "in and out" play in the rear end eh?;Really:rotflmao

Yeah, the pinion nut could use some love, but like Jared said, that crush sleeve is a one shot deal. Plus, it is a real bear to crush when it is replaced. I went through the rear axle/diff when I replaced the stock carrier with the Detriot True Trac gear driven LS. I had to use a huge cheater pipe to get the sucker to crush, and you gotta be careful. You can over shoot and crush it too much. Then you have to start all over again with a new one. Anyway, like Russ said, it's very doable by the shadetree guy, but take your time, and follow the instructions. You might want to pull the diff. cover while your at it to get a good look and the ring gear and carrier and bearings.

Heath
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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160ftlbs to tighten that pinion nut back up and locktight the **** out of the threads on the pinion as well.
 

typ4

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Locktight doesnt flush the **** out properly , brakleen works better.:rotflmao:rotflmao
 

Optikalillushun

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u can buy a solid spacer to take the crush sleeve's place. if the humming is still present after tightening it up it may be time for a new pinion bearing. and while thats goin on u may as well R/R the pinion gear to the longer shaft style as the pre-92? 10.25s pinion shaft is shorter and allows the nut to back off.

mine was barely loose so when i R/R the pinion seal i locktite (red) and torque it to spec. havent checked it since (only pur 5,000 miles a year on it) but it isnt making any noise.
 

gonecrazyi

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I had the nut come lose on mine after i tightened it down about a month prior. I let the clutch out a little quick in 2nd gear and the yoke pulled back and spun the teeth out of both the yoke and off of the pinion. Got to drive home in 4 lo becuase I couldnt get high to lock in, ugh.

Ill have to admit, Im kinda glad I blew that rearend out, I pulled a Ls axle from a 96 f250 cc for 150, it was completly rebuilt with new seals and bearings.

Besides the work needed to change it out, it was the best thing Ive ever broken. :)
 

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