P9106 Getting AC...part list?
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I shake the crap out them. Do the whole rotate 12 to 6. When it's nearly empty I turn it upside down.
But that's just me, I'm no professional. Lol
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But that's just me, I'm no professional. Lol
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HS108
Diesel Newb
In the beginning I think is when u don't want to flip it over, at the end it's mainly gas in there anyways.
Honestly it probably doesn't matter anyways, it's only in liquid form because it's so compressed in that can. Once it's in the tube/system I bet it's in gas form
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Honestly it probably doesn't matter anyways, it's only in liquid form because it's so compressed in that can. Once it's in the tube/system I bet it's in gas form
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ended up ordering enviro-safe. frosty cool was gonig to take way too long.
i dont quite understand why it says to not pull a vaccum when filling the system?
Also what should I be seeing on the gauges? Low and High side? Depends on ambient temp right?
Im putting in the recommend weight of refrigerant. using the enviro safe stuff, it is 35% of r12 but it works out to exactly 2.5 cans for a 91 f350 system which required 44oz of R12.
i dont quite understand why it says to not pull a vaccum when filling the system?
Also what should I be seeing on the gauges? Low and High side? Depends on ambient temp right?
Im putting in the recommend weight of refrigerant. using the enviro safe stuff, it is 35% of r12 but it works out to exactly 2.5 cans for a 91 f350 system which required 44oz of R12.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You may have to call and ask. I don't see anything specific on the site about pressures.
Did see you can lower head pressure by 33%, but best to just ask them.
They have one that's okay for vacuuming, but I think it's to do with the charge amounts.
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Did see you can lower head pressure by 33%, but best to just ask them.
They have one that's okay for vacuuming, but I think it's to do with the charge amounts.
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HS108
Diesel Newb
I think I read on their site they take the moisture and turn it into oil/lubricant that's why they say no vacuum maybe
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so i vacuumed down the system last night, i at least think i did the whole system, honestly i dont knwo maybe i onyl vacuumed down the low side hose..how can I tell if the whole system is under vacuum?
I attached a screw on fitting to the low side which is on the dryer port, and i used a quick coupler connector on the high side port between compressor and condenser. Strange-because i didnt think R12 systems had those red quick coupler connectors.
Anyway, the manifold gauge set I have does not have a purge valve on the yellow charge hose, nor does it have shutoff valves at the hose ends. I see some do, some dont, which confises me how do I go about actually charging the system now.
Envirosafe doesn't want a vacuum, ok. Soak cans in hot water to get pressure up. connect to yellow side, have both red and blue valves closed. open the can, turn truck on turn AC on. AC compressor wont cycle untill enough pressure is met.
So now do I open both blue and red valves? ONly blue? I dont know how this manifold is built. I assume the high side does not fee the low side at all through the manifold?
I attached a screw on fitting to the low side which is on the dryer port, and i used a quick coupler connector on the high side port between compressor and condenser. Strange-because i didnt think R12 systems had those red quick coupler connectors.
Anyway, the manifold gauge set I have does not have a purge valve on the yellow charge hose, nor does it have shutoff valves at the hose ends. I see some do, some dont, which confises me how do I go about actually charging the system now.
Envirosafe doesn't want a vacuum, ok. Soak cans in hot water to get pressure up. connect to yellow side, have both red and blue valves closed. open the can, turn truck on turn AC on. AC compressor wont cycle untill enough pressure is met.
So now do I open both blue and red valves? ONly blue? I dont know how this manifold is built. I assume the high side does not fee the low side at all through the manifold?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I ran into the same problem. The yellow line had no way to puncture the can.
I ended up hooking up the high side on the Manifold. Then used the short hoses you can get with the cans and hooked to the low side.
Every now and then I would hook the low side up on the Manifold just to double check the pressure.
Low Side will balance out with the high. So just drawing vacuum/adding refrigerant to that side only is fine.
Now on the Manifold, if it's the hf one. The valves let it crossflow. So any time either valve is opened, it will flow out the yellow line.
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I ended up hooking up the high side on the Manifold. Then used the short hoses you can get with the cans and hooked to the low side.
Every now and then I would hook the low side up on the Manifold just to double check the pressure.
Low Side will balance out with the high. So just drawing vacuum/adding refrigerant to that side only is fine.
Now on the Manifold, if it's the hf one. The valves let it crossflow. So any time either valve is opened, it will flow out the yellow line.
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I got an ebay one, so no valves on the quick couplers.
I mean I can purge the yellow lien by loosening it at the manifold. Since there is no vacuum on the system for filling with Envirosafe, only the line will purge.
SO the question still stands-do I keep the high side manifold valve open while filling the low side?
I am going by weight, but will use ambient ref pressures as a visual check too.
I need exactly 2.5 cans of the stuff.
I do have a fill/puncture hose from a previous R134 top up kit . I will replace the yellow hose with this one so i can puncture and open the can up.
I mean I can purge the yellow lien by loosening it at the manifold. Since there is no vacuum on the system for filling with Envirosafe, only the line will purge.
SO the question still stands-do I keep the high side manifold valve open while filling the low side?
I am going by weight, but will use ambient ref pressures as a visual check too.
I need exactly 2.5 cans of the stuff.
I do have a fill/puncture hose from a previous R134 top up kit . I will replace the yellow hose with this one so i can puncture and open the can up.
junk
Full Access Member
TO puncture the can you need a can tap. They make ones that screw on the can and connect to the Yellow hose. They also make ones that wrap around the can and basically stab the side of it. I've always used the screw on the can type. Now I pull from a 30lb keg of freon and it has a threaded connection and it's own valve. This is my experience with R134.
Once you run the engine you dont' want to open the red high pressure valve on the manifold gage. You should get a pressure reading on the gage, but shouldn't open it. You dont' want to send high pressure to the can of freon and possibly explode the can. If both manifold valves are open then the yellow fill hose is flowing to both the red and blue sides.
If you pulled a vacuum on the system then both sides got a vacuum. The low pressure and high pressure sides are basically just the two halves of the system before and after the Orifice tube. So they are always connected.
On R134 you will have to put in about 1/3 the charge of Freon before it starts cycling. I normally shoot the first bit of freon with the vehicle off both manifold valves open. Once it's quits filling I then close the red valve and turn on the vehicle and the a/c.
Once you run the engine you dont' want to open the red high pressure valve on the manifold gage. You should get a pressure reading on the gage, but shouldn't open it. You dont' want to send high pressure to the can of freon and possibly explode the can. If both manifold valves are open then the yellow fill hose is flowing to both the red and blue sides.
If you pulled a vacuum on the system then both sides got a vacuum. The low pressure and high pressure sides are basically just the two halves of the system before and after the Orifice tube. So they are always connected.
On R134 you will have to put in about 1/3 the charge of Freon before it starts cycling. I normally shoot the first bit of freon with the vehicle off both manifold valves open. Once it's quits filling I then close the red valve and turn on the vehicle and the a/c.
Using envirosafe, so no vacuum.
Thanks for the tip about keeping high side closed.
I hope to see a pressure increase on the hgih side when i am filling the low side with the pressurized refrigerant can.
I couldnt see anythgin happeneing on the high side when I was drawing a vacuum since the gauge does not read anythign below 0 on the high side...damn cheap ass ebay manifolds...
This is why I dont know if the whole system is getting vacuumed, or if it was just the low side hose..
Actually, tonight I will swap hoses, low to high, so I can read if there is a vacuum on the high side. If there is then I know everythign is connected and working right.
Thanks for the tip about keeping high side closed.
I hope to see a pressure increase on the hgih side when i am filling the low side with the pressurized refrigerant can.
I couldnt see anythgin happeneing on the high side when I was drawing a vacuum since the gauge does not read anythign below 0 on the high side...damn cheap ass ebay manifolds...
This is why I dont know if the whole system is getting vacuumed, or if it was just the low side hose..
Actually, tonight I will swap hoses, low to high, so I can read if there is a vacuum on the high side. If there is then I know everythign is connected and working right.
CDX825
filtration nut
I don't care what they say you have to pull a vacuum on the system. Air is a non condensable gas and will cause issues if left in the system.
Well i have learned alot about ac systems during this ordeal. So i went to go charge it and the line popped off-the one at the bottom of the evap core. Realised had too big a spring lock on it. New one snapped together, ok damn 1 can wasted.
Halfway putting the 2nd one in the comp kicked on! Success! Very smooth quiet no issues with it. I foegot to purge the line before putting the 3rd one in tho.
So the ac sustem is working, and the air is dry and cool! Its just not there yet.
i will pull a vacuum. This no vacuum stuff is nonsense like u are saying. Actually i have boiling hppeninf near the evap core right now.
And i gotta get more refrigerant.
So, can i vacuum the system without oulling the 10oz of oil out that i had in there?
Halfway putting the 2nd one in the comp kicked on! Success! Very smooth quiet no issues with it. I foegot to purge the line before putting the 3rd one in tho.
So the ac sustem is working, and the air is dry and cool! Its just not there yet.
i will pull a vacuum. This no vacuum stuff is nonsense like u are saying. Actually i have boiling hppeninf near the evap core right now.
And i gotta get more refrigerant.
So, can i vacuum the system without oulling the 10oz of oil out that i had in there?
HS108
Diesel Newb
Yes, you should be able to pull a vacuum without pulling the oil out of the system.
The pressure in the system should be equal when the compressor is not running As for the low side pressure, It seems a but low to me, but I think it also depends on outside air temps as well
The pressure in the system should be equal when the compressor is not running As for the low side pressure, It seems a but low to me, but I think it also depends on outside air temps as well
