Old to new parts swap

264WSM

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I'm parting out a 93 F 350 IDI. It has a E4OD trans. Can this trans be used in my brother's 2002 PSD?? Both are 4X4. Can the transfer case be used in my 2000 PSD?? I realize I will have to cut a hole for the transfer case stick, but I would much rather have the stick than the electronic switch. Can I move over just the stick and linkage to the 2000?
 

greenskeeper

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I'm parting out a 93 F 350 IDI. It has a E4OD trans. Can this trans be used in my brother's 2002 PSD?? Both are 4X4. Can the transfer case be used in my 2000 PSD?? I realize I will have to cut a hole for the transfer case stick, but I would much rather have the stick than the electronic switch. Can I move over just the stick and linkage to the 2000?

E4OD won't work in a SD

transfer case linkage is also different between OBS and SD
 

u2slow

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Can the transfer case be used in my 2000 PSD?? I realize I will have to cut a hole for the transfer case stick, but I would much rather have the stick than the electronic switch. Can I move over just the stick and linkage to the 2000?

The old tcase is a downgrade and more work to accomodate. Get yourself the proper stick-shifted tcase (NV271F) from a 99+.
 

264WSM

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Is there are kit where I can just buy the stick (and parts) to put on mine?
 

greenskeeper

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Is there are kit where I can just buy the stick (and parts) to put on mine?

Are you wanting to put a manual shift linkage on an electronically controlled transfer case?

I suppose it could be done, but it's much easier to go to a pick-n-pull and grab a manually shifted t-case, linkage, and floor cover.
 

u2slow

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Once upon a time I had both a NP241 and NP243 case apart on the bench to try and fix one with the other. The internal shift mechanism works completely different. Cant say for sure if the 27x series is built the same, but here's my overview.

In the manual, you get what you shift. Direct acting.

In the electric, the shift motor indexes position and spring-loads the shift fork. It's now up the spring and an agreeable gear position (i.e. not binding, etc) for the collar to slide and complete the shift. If something gets sticky or stubborn, it can hang up in a spring-loaded state (or a spring fails) while the shift motor has done its job and thinks its all dandy. Replace the motor with a DIY-stick, the same holds true. You can choose your desired position, but the tcase may not be doing what you ask. Also not sure if the electric version has distinct detent positions.

My 2 cents.

FWIW, I got my 271F with driveshafts for $125. Not worth trying anything too custom...
 

264WSM

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I don't trust electronics, I would rather have the lever. I don't like having to do all the dancing with my feet in order to get the low range engaged. Looks like the easier way to go would be to get a tcase that is designed around the stick.
 
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