OEM Freeze Plugs

[icanfixall]

How are the original factory freeze plugs installed? Do they use any type of sealer or what? On my original 89 block the stainless steel plugs have a very differant dent in them as compared to the factory set I had installed in my rebuilt block. If some of you remember I watched them install these and hydro tested the block to 35 lbs without any signs of a leak. Well I now have 3 plugs that started weaping but ever so slightly. One was behind the flexplate and the other two are behind the oil cooler. I never see any coolant on the ground. Just some stains on the block and sometimes you can feel some wetness. This is not a happy thing either. I probably will be pulling the motor and installing the spare set of the factory plugs but information is needed first. I may just remove a plug from my original motor and see what it looks like for sealant.....

 

[riotwarrior]

Damn Gary, sounds like it's more bad news.....Whats up with that....must be heat cycles causing problems with expansion and contraction I suspect.....

Maybe it's time to look into those (Cough) Screw in plugs eh?...

Another trick I have seen is pinning the plugs but thats a pain in the ...well you know!

I know from my experience that I always and the shop I worked in years ago always used/s sealant on the plugs when installing them.
JM2CW

 

[icanfixall]

When I installed my plugs they went in dry. Still the dent thats sets them is differant from the other factory block I have. I know positivitly that block has the original factory stainless steel plugs in it and it never leaked at all. This is why I'm feeling the factory installation is somehow differant from what we can do aftermarket with the special tool designed just for this job. I have added some dent to 2 of the plugs that are showing signs of a very small leakage and it has stopped all leakage but I'm still wondering about this and using some sealant on the next set. I did apply JB Weld to 3 locations on every plug so I dought they can pop out. I did this AFTER they had been installed and proven by hydro test that they didn't leak. Yes, It does seem like the heat cycles may be the reason for this seepage but gees.... Can I ever get a brake or what... The wifey says its my charma. If I let bad charma out all I will get back is bad charma..... I say this to that...

 

[RLDSL]

I'm checking with the manufacturer to see if it would be apropriate, but I think I'm going to try some Hylomar on my freeze plugs. If you get an expansion gap with that stuff, it stretches to fill the void and seals itself back up
It works great on everything else.

--Robert

 

[tenlug]

I lost one plug after a rebuild a while back. These were installed dry. Went thur and replaced all the plugs and used red loctite. It shows no seepage now. I also installed a pressure sensor and idiot light, this way if you lose a plug you know it. Been watching the thread about the install tool. The second time aroud I used a piece of 1.25 round steel stock (for the mass) about 12" long and a 48 ounce hammer. Got this trick from a old mechinc. I am using steel plugs, the brass ones seem to soft. Steve

 

[icanfixall]

Tenlug... If you bought the 7 freeze plugs from a Ford dealer you bought the correct stainless steel plugs. I too had a set of brass plugs installed and one poped out at 2 miles and the other one poped out at 5200 miles causing the motor to burn down. Mt aftermarket Isspro mechanical gage never went above 225 till the motor froze up and wouldn't turn over while parked on the freeway. I was pullin over and the motor really started to knock. I looked at my oil temp and it was passing 330 degrees. When I rebuilt that motor I installed a port in the oil pan so I could monitor the motor oil temp. These motors don't sound too good when the oil gets that hot and thins out. The damage was both heads cracked, 6 pistons scuffed the skirts and really just a gasket set. All this because the @ssholes didn't use the correct plugs or have the special plug installation tool to make the plugs expand the correct amount. I don't deal with that shop anymore nor do I recommend them to anybody. Funny thing is I had them do a valve job on my 454 heads and they did a great job on them.

 

[typ4]

When I put mine in they were stainless in a pioneer package, they didnt say stainless but a magnet wouldnt stick too well to them. Brass with this type plug is a no no, Even the steel ones dont squeeze tight enough. I use aviation permatex on EVERY freeze plug I put in on every engine, brass ,steel or stainless, cup or concave.

 

[RLDSL]

I'm checking with the manufacturer to see if it would be apropriate, but I think I'm going to try some Hylomar on my freeze plugs. If you get an expansion gap with that stuff, it stretches to fill the void and seals itself back up
It works great on everything else.

--Robert

I heard back from the distributor, and yes, Hylomar would be appropriate for freeze plugs, so that's what I'm using on mine. Probably use the aerograde or racing formula.

I got my engine out the other day, and of all things, the plug that was leaking on the back of the block was the correct type, but it walked out on the top, so it must not have been seated all the way

----Robert

 

[RLDSL]

I finally found it in the factory manual, yes, the plugs are supposed to use a sealer quote" Coat plug and/or bore lightly with Perfect Seal Sealing Compound B5A-19554-A (ESR-M18P2-A) or equivalent "

I wonder what that stuff is?

------Robert

 

[RLDSL]

The only thing I've been able to find on that sealer is this:
FORD ESR-M18P2-A
Revision:07 Chg: Date:08/29/07 SEALER, ENGINE AND CHASSIS ***TO BE USED WITH FORD WSS-M99P1111-A***

 

[RLDSL]

While we're on freeze plugs, what about the ones on the ends of the heads?
Are they supposed to be the dish type as well or are they supposed to be cup type? The ones on my current engine and my old one are both cup type and by the way they are seated in, look to be appropriate.

Any thoughts on that?

I just popped all my poorly seated freeze plugs out today, had the one big leaker that had walked out, another one behind a motor mount was weeping pretty good and wasn't long for this world. The rest were holding, but not by much. Man, what a mess. I bought a complete engine put together to save some work ( mostly because wife.gov is always on me about my health working too much ), and I end up doing twice as much. Now it looks like I need to take all the gaskets off down to the bare block to get the thing sealed up properly

--Robert

 

[icanfixall]

The plugs in the heads are the cup type. Looks like I'm pulling my motor again and replacing the freeze plugs because I installed them dry.... Always something isn't it. Turbo whistle sure is better after I fixed the exhaust leak....

 

[RLDSL]

Well that's a relief. at least I won't have to fool with the ones on the heads and I can leave the turbo put.One less ATS slip fit to fool with . Now to get to cleaning all the drill chips out.Wonder how much luck I'll have with a magnet on those.

 

[ttman4]

and yes, Hylomar would be appropriate for freeze plugs, so that's what I'm using on mine. Probably use the aerograde or racing formula.----Robert

Robert, that Hylomar stuff handy/available or have to be ordered?
I've usually used the Permatex Aviation stuff on lots of things, & it's easy to find.

 

[RLDSL]

Robert, that Hylomar stuff handy/available or have to be ordered?
I've usually used the Permatex Aviation stuff on lots of things, & it's easy to find.

Pretty much have to order the Hylomar unless you have an airport nearby with a parts store. You can get it from www.hylomarusa.com there are a number of manufacturers licensed to manufacture the stuff, Permatex used to have a license and had the universal blue on the shelf in a lot of chain stores, but they lost the license, but it looks like they now have the license again so Valco also has a license to make the stuff,and they have an aerosol can that is handy for steel shim head gaskets etc. The Aero and racing is stickier, probably better for freeze plugs.

That Hylomar is just some neat stuff, it doesn't leak, but when you have to take something apart, you clean it up with a rag. No scraping involved. A lot of times I'll take a part off, clean a gasket up, re apply a fresh coat of Hylomar and stick it back on, no worries.

----------Robert