Alex G 7
Full Access Member
I assumed that haha.. and no have power going in good grounds have signal going out just flow plugs aren't going, checked with test light
no start problem
- Thread starter Alex G 7
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Okay but do you have 12v on the circled spot when the gp's are on?
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Above the right side fenderwell, there is what appears to be a starter relay (actually, it is)...
Look for a two yellow wire grouping...
Disconnect from the back side of fenderwell relay...
Turn key on, engine not running and listen for cycling of the glow plug controller...
If no cycling, controller might be bad...
Anyway, by disconnecting those two yellow wires, the glow plugs can't receive any power and this makes it safe to use ether...
JUST A LITTLE DAB IN THE AIR CLEANER WILL DO YA!!!
No really, no more than a second's duration... If too much, give it time to dissipate... It WILL rattle if given too much...
I had the same problem when I replaced my engine...
Pulled all of the glow plugs and found three Champions complete with warped ends and blown... I had 5 functioning Beru's and the truck still wouldn't start... I did also have a olive seal leak somewhere between the lift pump to the IP...
I replaced the bad Champions with old Beru's from old engine and put new olives in and Viola!
End of no start problem for my truck!!!
Just came back from double checking with my truck, There are two double wire groups that attach to the fenderwell relay... One comes from the Alternator and then another set comes from the glow plug controller... The ones from the controller are yellow... Better safe than sorry...
Look for a two yellow wire grouping...
Disconnect from the back side of fenderwell relay...
Turn key on, engine not running and listen for cycling of the glow plug controller...
If no cycling, controller might be bad...
Anyway, by disconnecting those two yellow wires, the glow plugs can't receive any power and this makes it safe to use ether...
JUST A LITTLE DAB IN THE AIR CLEANER WILL DO YA!!!
No really, no more than a second's duration... If too much, give it time to dissipate... It WILL rattle if given too much...
I had the same problem when I replaced my engine...
Pulled all of the glow plugs and found three Champions complete with warped ends and blown... I had 5 functioning Beru's and the truck still wouldn't start... I did also have a olive seal leak somewhere between the lift pump to the IP...
I replaced the bad Champions with old Beru's from old engine and put new olives in and Viola!
End of no start problem for my truck!!!
Just came back from double checking with my truck, There are two double wire groups that attach to the fenderwell relay... One comes from the Alternator and then another set comes from the glow plug controller... The ones from the controller are yellow... Better safe than sorry...
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
I'll have to check I used the test light on it like I said to check signal and it flashed in sequence but idk if it was 12 volts
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
Deffinately .. is it also possible that I have to much air in the lines from the pump to the injectors and that I just need to bleed them out?
A-Ha!!!
There's the problem!!!
Change the flow plugs with the proper glow plugs and you should be golden!!!
Just kiddin...
When my olives were bad, the fuel filter, when unscrewed, would be about 3/4 full...
With good olives, the fuel filter would be full, unless you have air intrusion between tank and fuel filter...
When ether is used, it gives the engine the ability to quickly turn over some and in most cases that is enough to temporarily prime fuel system all of the way to the tips of injectors...
With good olives, the fuel filter would be full, unless you have air intrusion between tank and fuel filter...
When ether is used, it gives the engine the ability to quickly turn over some and in most cases that is enough to temporarily prime fuel system all of the way to the tips of injectors...
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
How would I use the other though because I have a turbo on it so have nowhere to Go in other than the air filter
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Just at the air filter. Doesn't take long for it to reach the engine.
Best to remove the filter.
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Best to remove the filter.
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Opps...
I didn't see that...
I don't really know for sure, but it seems to me that ether is shot into the air filter, just behind the fresh air hose that leads from the front snorkel that is sandwiched between the hood and radiator... Again, I would think just a little dab would do ya...
Perhaps you should wait until someone with experience in shooting ether into a turbo-ed engine can chime in...
All of my experience is with a n/a engine...
I didn't see that...
I don't really know for sure, but it seems to me that ether is shot into the air filter, just behind the fresh air hose that leads from the front snorkel that is sandwiched between the hood and radiator... Again, I would think just a little dab would do ya...
Perhaps you should wait until someone with experience in shooting ether into a turbo-ed engine can chime in...
All of my experience is with a n/a engine...
Looks like I waited a little too long to 'hit' the post button...
79jasper
Chickenhawk
At least that's the only way it's worked for me.
And on a few Cummings. Lol
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And on a few Cummings. Lol
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Alex G 7
Full Access Member
well everyone i had a few problems before i could try to get her started but i am truely stumped it still cranks and cranks but wont turn over fires on one cylinder on and off but nothing else. i held a rag soaked in diesel over the intake and nothing. also i have tons of fuel in my retun system so i am truely stumped and all i want to do is start my truck with the new motor
kuskoal
Full Access Member
Take a hair dryer/heat gun to the intake if you are that scared of using ether. Plug the block heater in, take the hood off and put the engine in direct sunlight lol.
You need HOT air to combust diesel fuel. Cold air in a cold engine is not going to super-heat itself with compression. You lose too much heat through the dead cold cylinder around the hot air.
You have fuel and it's getting injected. Literally half of the equation of just getting it to kick over and idle is solved. Now find a way to heat the air or get combustion in more than half the cylinders.
You are doing more harm than good not using ether to get the engine running. If i remember correctly, i didn't have oil pressure at the turbo UNTIL the engine was idling when i put the 6.9 in. Pump was good and withing spec, just wouldnt flow oil past the camshaft.
You need HOT air to combust diesel fuel. Cold air in a cold engine is not going to super-heat itself with compression. You lose too much heat through the dead cold cylinder around the hot air.
You have fuel and it's getting injected. Literally half of the equation of just getting it to kick over and idle is solved. Now find a way to heat the air or get combustion in more than half the cylinders.
You are doing more harm than good not using ether to get the engine running. If i remember correctly, i didn't have oil pressure at the turbo UNTIL the engine was idling when i put the 6.9 in. Pump was good and withing spec, just wouldnt flow oil past the camshaft.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I believe you need gas on the rag for that trick.
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