New to me 6.9, hello and questions!

[warhog]

Hi everyone. Looks like I've finally dove into the diesel world. I recently traded my ext cab gasser for an 86 6.9 crew cab dually. I'm familiar with gas engines but have never worked on/owned a diesel, (or a manual tranny for that matter) so bear with me as I start to learn everything. I can drive em all day long but when it comes to fixing broken stuff, or maintenance, i'm clueless.

The previous owner told me that when the engine is cold, it will need a few squirts of starting fluid, and it will start right up. Otherwise, it will just crank. What could cause this? Weak fuel pump? I'd like this fixed asap seeing as from what I read, it's not healthy for the motor. Throughout the day if I only park it for a few hours it'll start right up, no sweat. In an out of stores, no problem.

It does have a block heater, is it safe to leave plugged in over night when i go to bed? Or would I be better off just grabbing a timer for it.

Did they not put a "Wait to start" idiot light on these? Or is mine just not lighting up..I do it anyways obviously, but would like to fix it if it is indeed broken.

And finally...The heater core was bypassed and it's starting to get chilly here in the early AM on my way to work! From what i've read, since I have A/C, it's a no sweat job. Anything to keep in mind, or can just pop the new one in, and disconnect the bypass/connect it to the core?

Again, hello and thanks for the advice. Depending on the crowd here, this may be my new home.

edit: oh and what the heck is that little button thing next to my brake pedal/near the e brake?

 

[Hydro-idi]

Hello and welcome to the forum! There's lots of us to help you with your truck.
First thing to address. There is a wait to start light. These engines are equipped with one glow plug per cylinder, a glow plug solenoid (passenger fender under hood), and a glow plug controller (right behind air intake on top of intake manifold). I replaced my entire system and it was fairly cheap. I am not a fan of using ether because too much can cause engine damage. One or more of these items needs to be addressed in your case.
Second, You can leave the block heater plugged in all night.
Third, it sounds to me like the PO had a heater core leak and bypassed the lines going to it. The heater core is right behind the glove box and takes about 20 minutes to replace. They are also fairly cheap.
Fourth, that botton thing near your left foot would be the high beams for your headlights.

 

[warhog]

Ahah! Thanks! I was wondering why it said "HIGH BEAMS" all night haha I was like what the heck, how do these things turn off?!

Thanks for the input on the starting issue. I'll have to do some looking into that and see if i can narrow it down some. Haven't scanned for codes, but if there was a problem within the glow plug system, should it throw a code?

 

[Hydro-idi]

Your truck does not have a computer system on it. Everything about these trucks are pretty much mechanical. It makes trial and error more fun.

 

[Hydro-idi]

If your wait to start light does not come on and you have no power to your glowplugs, you need to start looking into your system. It sounds to me like your glow plug controller is done. But I would first start with looking into the glow plug solenoid mounted on the passenger side fender. They are only 20 bucks and this little ****** was the cause of my glow plug issues after I already spent the money and bought a new GPC, thinking that was my issue. I just decided to replace all of my glowplugs since I replaced everything else and have a fresh system. When working properly, they work very well and there is no need to use ether.

 

[warhog]

Oh how exciting....Thanks for the info. Time to start pricing stuff out.

edit: Great thanks. I'll look into the solenoid first then. It's great having some sort of direction (god bless the internet)

 

[90ididoorguy]

I would just plane on updating your to system they are simple use beru zd9 plugs and replace the gp controller

 

[Hydro-idi]

GPC=$80 at autozone
GP Solenoid=$20 at kragen
Glowplugs=$12 apiece at kragen for berus (you will need 8 if replacing), or $40 for a full set of bosch plugs on ebay.
Everybody says do not use anything other than beru plugs. This is important when considering autolite plugs, because they will swell in the head, making them difficult to remove. Autolites may also break off and then you need to remove cylinder head to get glowplug tip out. Anyways, I use bosch and have not had a problem with them. They do not seem to swell and seem to be good plugs in my opinion.

 

[riotwarrior]

Hello and Welcome to oil burners The go to place for info on these trucks.

Since your new to diesels and so forth, PLEASE take the time and read the FAQ's they are so helpful for people to read and get a good understanding of these trucks and engines. Also take a few more minutes and read the tech articles to familarize yourself with some of the HOW TO's that are available to you that can answer a lot of questions and help you inquire about things with an understanding of these trucks.

Sounds to me like the puffs of either are an issue with the GLOW plug system, now whether that is the Glow plugs or the controller or the relay or all of it I have no idea...it's all a matter of test, check, test eliminate and so forth.

Again Welcome

Al

 

[warhog]

Edit: checked the "how to" thread on making a manual glow plug switch so i could get familiarzed with the gp parts. I checked my truck and guess what? someone already tried making a switch. But they never ran it to the inside of the cab. The purple wire wasn't connected, so i put it back on and heard some noises, but no "wait to start" light still.

 

[GOOSE]

Welcome to Oilburners. I think you will find this is the site you will go to time and time again for this vintage truck. You are on the right track with tthe glow plug system. I am not the biggest fan of the manual system but to each their own. I would buy the Beru GP's, new controller and solenoid. Google the wiring diagram and return the system back to being automatic. If the "wait to start light isn't working, check it as well, could have burnt out. A proper functioning system will start your engine in sub zero deg Fahrenheit temps. Good luck with your truck, once you get used to the mechanical aspect of things you will find it a very easy layout to work on and maintain.

 

[idi_econoline]

Yepyep, welcome, Warhog. If you're used to codes from a code reader, you're in for a whole new (or old?) way of fixing. Time for informed (via da Book and/or advice from our members) trial-and-error investigation, and the glow plug circuit's a great place to start.

I have to agree with Hydro-idi about Bosch g-plugs. I've had one go bad on me, and that was just some increased resistance when given a continuity test with a meter. Otherwise, they are serving me well. Also, trace your circuits and watch out for burnt wiring. By gasser standards, this circuit carries a whole lot of amperage, although normally for only a few seconds. Connectors can and do cook in some spots, as plastic ages and gets brittle from heat.

Yeah, the heater core's really not a bad chore in the Fs. So many vehicles require the whole dash to come off! Getting the hoses off are usually the worst part on these trucks.

Congrats on your purchase, and, hey, all of us enjoy seeing pics if ya got 'em.

 

[dgr]

The GP controller on his engine is screwed into the back of the driver's side head. I have never tried to pull mine out but I think I might be ready with an engine crane before I tried as it looks like it would be difficult to get to if you broke the pipe thread in the head.

Testing your glow plugs:
Disconnect the wires at each and every glow plug. The spade connector should have a sharp side you depress to release the internal clip. Take a test light and test from battery positive to each glow plug terminal. The light should come on. If not, that glow plug is dead. A 1/4" drive 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket with a swivel will be your friend here. Replace any dead glow plugs or install a manual switch and then:

Testing your glow plug controller. It is a simply bi-metallic switch in that thing that looks like an oil pressure sending unit with three wires coming out of it. Disconnect the purple wire at the glow plug solenoid. With the engine cold, connect a test light to ground and the other end to the purple wire. Turn the key on and the test light should light for 5 to 20 seconds. If the test light does not come on, see if you have power to the GP controller. If not, trace it and find out why. If you do, the controller is probably bad. If the test light comes on then goes out as expected, the GP controller is functioning properly. If the GP controller is failed, either replace it and then:

GP solenoid. This test will throw sparks and make some noise so don't be holding a sword why you are doing it. At your GP solenoid, with the key on, jumper from the hot side (has the battery cables) to the post where the purple wire connects. An old screwdriver works well. Be decisive when doing it. Have someone watch the wait to start light while you do this. If you are lucky, the GP solenoid is only mostly dead (like the princess bride) and this will provide enough amperage to pull it in. If the WTS light does come on and you've already tested and replaced any bad glow plugs, let the glow plugs do their thing for seven seconds then have your watcher turn the key to start and see if the engine starts.
If the WTS light does not come on, you can jumper between the big posts on the solenoid. See caution above about sparks and swords. This will supply electricity directly to the glow plugs. Did the WTS light come on? Try to start it after letting the glow plugs heat. If the solenoid work with either of these tests and you have power to the purple wire when you should, the solenoid will need to be replaced.

I wanted to add that I do not run beru glow plugs. From what I have read on here, our glow plug controllers tend to fail in the closed position. That means if it fails it is going to burn out any glow plugs in the engine before you can get to pulling the purple wire. I have plugs for an old oldsmobile 350 in my engine as they don't seem to swell and from what I can find, they are designed to have more voltage to them. Of course, where I live it doesn't get really cold so maybe these wouldn't be workable where it does get cold without a manual GP switch. Maybe we should all pretend I didn't type all that and get back to resolving your GP issues.

Regarding your block heater: I wonder how many watts those things are. A $1 a day in electricity would quickly pay for a timer.

 

[Can30Diesel]

Welcome to the IDI world! You'll find that these are among the most reliable motors ever built and by far the easiest to work on and maintain. My first ever diesel truck was the one I still have today. I rescued it from a farm where it sat for years rusting away.

This is by far the best place to find information on these engines so always ask here if you are unsure about anything, chances are that someone here has been there and done that.

 

[idi_econoline]

Welcome to the IDI world! You'll find that these are among the most reliable motors ever built and by far the easiest to work on and maintain.............This is by far the best place to find information on these engines so always ask here if you are unsure about anything, chances are that someone here has been there and done that.

Well said, Can30Diesel! Really, Warhog, this is a fine group of IDI-lovin' fellas with years of knowledge for the asking. I have learned SO much from this board in the last 7 months!!! Still learning great stuff all the time.