New member, Unimog truck

laserjock

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Oh. We also pulled the flasher unit from under the dash and fixed it as the hazards or turn signals were not flashing. Turns out it’s a common problem for the contacts on the mechanical flasher to stick so we popped it apart and took some 2000 grit to them like a set of points and it works great now. That saved $128. It’s this thing under the steering wheel.

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laserjock

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Mike, I was starting to wonder what you would do with all of the "free" time you would have now that Big Red is running well and put away for the winter. Now I know! Thanks for continuing to help your friend and for posting up the progress!

Yeah, I stay busy. LOL

My truck is sitting outside with the block heater plugged in. She failed to start a while ago at 20 F. I think I may have a glow plug issue. It didn’t even cough after a few cycles of the glow plugs. So I got plenty to do to it over the winter. Stay tuned, that’s about to get going again too.
 

tadd

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Latest bit worth reporting... so Mogs are slow. Gearing limited. Not only slow, but zero power. Stock for the longest time was 90 hp. That got bumped to 110 with a pump tweak. As with any diesel, to get anywhere, you need to turbo, then add fuel. The round cabs never came with turbos. It is a tight squeeze in there under the dog house. The later square cab SBU units came turbo'ed then later intercooled.

So to turbo a round cab, first up is a header. Most build some sort of log manifold, but after lots of measuring and head scratching I thought I could make a SBU design fit. Maybe. Got a backup plan if it doesn't with a bit of cutting, rotation, and rewelding. If that doesn't work, then it will be log style.

Threads are worthless without pics, so here is the parts layout. All bits are 2" schedule 40, that's 0.150" wall, 304L stainless. Thank you McMaster. Fairly inexpensive as well. Ninetys were like $12 each and the Ts were $20ish.
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The mog has siamesed outlets for the center four cylinders, so only four ports.

Merge was two 90s with one leg cut in half and a T25 flange added.
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Welding up the wyes...
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Getting the wyes on the flange plates.
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Continued next post!
 

tadd

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And finally, the merge added in. There is a small pie cut section between the flange and the wye to kick the header in tight to the block while looping over a head coolant hard line.
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The outside stud mounting holes were really tight to the given pipe size. The outermost has enough room to get away with an internal wrenching allen nut. The inner will need a raised platform and long stud. Still ironing that out.

So plan B is to cut the merge out, flip the whole thing upside down and put the turbo over the motor. Hard to visualize, so I will get picks up when its not nasty out.

Learned a lot in the process. Second one would be much nicer. Lots of practice doing TIG in tight spots figuring how to get the torch where it needs to be. Many, many walks of shame to the grinder for dipping the tungsten!
 

laserjock

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Overkill thy name is Tadd. LOL

But seriously, given it’s the turbo pedestal with no other support a little thicker is not a bad thing.
 
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