new lug nuts
- Thread starter dgr
- Start date
smolkin
Stuck inside Mobile
I hope not...I recently switched all of mine over to 7/8", seems to be OK, no wheels fallen off yet. The truck came to me with three different sizes, (even on a single wheel 
) and switching sockets several times just to get a darn wheel off was getting annoying.
) and switching sockets several times just to get a darn wheel off was getting annoying.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I suppose we are talking about steel wheels from the factory. I prefer the 1 1/16 nut size but what works for you is important to you. Having three differant size lug nuts on the same wheel would be a problem thats for sure. I just "collected" a complete set of 8 lug nuts from the yard. I needed a nut that could pull the studs thru my gm full floater drum and hub during a brake job. I had to drive out the studs and remove the stuck drum that way. Once the hub was removed things had enough room to come apart. The brake shoes were adjusted up so far they would not allow the drum to slide off over them.
My lug nuts were so stretched out, they had to be CRANKED off to the very last thread. I can usually get at least five lugs done without my little compressor running out of juice. I was lucky to get one done at a time. The 60 degree angle on them had a waist on it. I can't imagine how long somebody had to pound with an 1" impact driver to get them like that.
I only had to go to four different stores to get them. First one had 19. Second had 10. Third had three. Oops, we only have two. Fourth store had the last one.
I only had to go to four different stores to get them. First one had 19. Second had 10. Third had three. Oops, we only have two. Fourth store had the last one.
John Deere
Registered User
I hate the Ford lugnuts. I change them out to the deep acorn style or the regular 7/8" lugnuts.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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The FORD nuts are only a problem on the SRWs with Sterling rears.
The nuts/studs on the Danas work like a charm.
The SRW Sterling nuts behave as if the entire stud were cross-threaded, or as if one were forcing a metric threaded nut onto an American threaded stud.
The entire problem can be cured once-and-for-all by running a tap through every nut and a die over every stud; you can spin them on with your fingers after that.
John Deere
Registered User
I disagree about the sterling only statement, the 84 I had with a dana used the same crappy lugnut as the sterling rearends. The other problem I have with the ford lugnuts is that they weren't threaded all the way to the end, leaving a cavity for sand and dirt to get into, so that you could wreck the threads on the stud as you removed the nut.
What he said...I have a Dana 70 and had the exact same problem. I finally shelled out the money for replacement lug nuts that completely cover up the lug studs, so the threads can't get dirty or rusted...made life MUCH easier
I remember the last time I pulled the factory lug nuts off...it took all of my strength, a breaker bar, and a long piece of pipe to get them off, and they fought every inch of the way...
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