New injector pump install this weekend

Brian VT

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It's not too bad. It's not fun. And it takes time. But anyone can do it if I can. ;-)
I had to keep telling myself, "This is why you bought this old truck. Because it's simple and you can work on it yourself. No dealership service crap. No computers. No emissions crap."
It took up most of a day but now that I've done it I could prob do it in 3 hours?
 

Brian VT

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Now to learn how to use my timing device.
I'm actually dreading that more than replacing the injection pump. And the engine runs well enough that the timing might get put behind other things that I'd rather get tidied up.
 

Brian VT

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When prepping knowledge for this job I remember reading about "If you took the timing gear out...".

Just for future reference, why would one remove that?
 

TahoeTom

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Sometimes a person will remove the whole assembly by removing the gear housing with the gear attached to the pump, then realize they have no way to put things back correctly timed.
 

Nero

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I removed and replaced the timing gear on my dad's old truck, but thats cause I was an idiot and used too long of an upper water pump bolt and side loaded the pump. Left a nice big groove in the gear.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Sometimes a person will remove the whole assembly by removing the gear housing with the gear attached to the pump,
Not to mention that it looks more obvious this way. If you don't know, then you do what look easier and then you have bigger problems. I can remember probably a dozen trucks that came in for an engine where the owners thought that they were going to pull it out themselves. The water pump with the fan still attached would be in the bed. They were always a little sheepish when they admitted that they thought that they could get the fan off by removing the water pump. That was usually the point that they'd realize that they were in over their heads and they'd better pay someone else to do the job. Yes, I've seen a few come in with the IP gear housings off with the IP still attached too.
 

Old Goat

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Great job Brian, we knew you could do it.

Early on when learning about these IDI`s and how to remove the Pump, I would head up to the JY (PNP) with my bent and ground down wrenches and new found knowledge, remove the Pump`s. probably 4 or so. Then one day drove by the yard and went in to see a 6.9 that had just come in. Had no tools or work clothes.
Some one had removed the pump already.
Found it sitting in the bed of a truck behind it with gear and cover still attached. That`s when it hit me to just pull the whole thing off with gear and cover and then take apart on the tail gate of one of the trucks.

ONLY do this when in a JUNK YARD.


Goat
 

Brian VT

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Well things started out great but have started to go downhill. :-(
It was running so much stronger and with quicker response on Saturday after installing the new pump.
Yesterday it started smoking some and didn't go away after warm up. Then my throttle started feeling "sticky". Then I noticed it would quit when I pulled the pedal all the way out with my foot.
So I started messing with the throttle spring. That's a weird setup and it's not obvious where it should be connected. I reinstalled it the best I could and got home fine but something's still not right and it's still smoking. I'd call the smoke gray (black when I get on it on an uphill).
Frustrated, I walked away and spent the rest of the day on the boat. :)
 

Nero

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Well can't go wrong relaxing on a boat :) Maybe your lift pump is going out? Check your idle pressure.
 

Brian VT

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I hadn't had time to mess with it but I did find time to figure out the throttle spring. There's some red plastic in there that is falling apart so that was causing the binding. All good there.

Anyway, back to the smoke.
She starts instantly and idles great. The high idle solenoid seems to be working and the idle drops after a couple minutes.
There's a quick puff of black smoke at startup and then some almost invisible smoke from then on that doesn't go away even when up to full temp.
That same slight smoke is still there while cruising and normal acceleration.
If I get on the throttle a bit more it rolls coal very easily.
And one other thing, that may not be relevant, I've had it stall when coming to a stop unless I come in easy and keep a bit of pedal on to let her wind down gradually. Then it sits at idle nicely. At idle, in park, if I do a quick stab at the throttle it will quit almost instantly after I let off.

My pump mark is turned about an 1/8" toward the passenger fender. I read here somewhere that if it rolls coal easily then the pump is turned too far in that direction. But 1/8" doesn't sound like very much compared to what I've read here?

Advice?
 

IDIBRONCO

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The timing marks on the pumps mean absolutely nothing any more. They will help you get the engine started, but there's no way to tell if the timing is close without using a meter. By you mentioning a slight smoke during normal driving and it rolling coal fairly easily, I'm guessing that your timing is retarded.
For your stalling issue, is the idle warm/hot/normal high enough? That may be why it stalls like it does.
 

Brian VT

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It idles great and was at low rpm (nice and quiet) so my 1st instinct was to turn that up.
Each time I'd turn it up a bit and then try the throttle stab and I'd still get a stall. I ended up with an uncomfortably high idle, and I was still getting the stall, so I put it back to low idle.
 

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