New Injection pump question

[salcha sledhead]

Just replaced IP on my 1991 F350.Started at rear and cleaned/flushed tanks,blew lines out.Installed new clear inline filter before new lift pump.Installed new water filter and then new IP.Have an issue when you accelerate then let off fast,it dies.Am new to diesels and am learning as I go.This is a great forum/resource center for me and I am asking for help on this issue.Really appreciate feedback.Thanks.

 

[Brian VT]

Welcome to OilBurners.

What is the condition of the fuel sending units in the tanks? Are the "shower heads" still on them?
Is there a 2-tank fuel switch involved?
What is the mileage on the injectors?
After it dies, does it start back up right away when you hit the starter? Do you need to put the pedal down to restart it?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

When you accelerate, let off, and the engine dies, are you driving or is the truck sitting still as in when you're working on it? Is your idle speed possibly too low? Did you check the timing after installing the new IP? Finally, where did you buy the new IP?
I'm asking these because it's easier for us to try to help you out if we have more information.

 

[salcha sledhead]

As to condition of Fuel sending units.That is reason I dropped tanks was to check pick up tubes/shower heads.They were both pliable and intact.There is a fuel tank switch and unknown mileage on Injectors.As for starting,it fires right back up.After reading timing and TPS articles I am looking into purchase of Timimg light and DTI 3300 and am going to check TPS voltage this weekend.The IP was purchased at Advanced diesel in Anchorage

 

[Black dawg]

If the idle speed isnt really low, it sounds like the metering valve is a little sticky. Probably will straighten out with a little use.

 

[Brian VT]

Maybe fill the fuel filter with ATF and then run the engine until it starts burning that and then shut it down and let it sit overnight. Cheap/easy thing to try and can't hurt.

 

[salcha sledhead]

What is the idea behind running ATF? And I bought truck in December 2020,It hadn't ran in 7 to 8 years.After getting multiple things fixed ie...starter,batteries,brakes,light switch(melted piug),alternator and more I drove it till December 2021 when IP failed at -30F.Just got enough money extra to purchase IP so its running again.Also after reading about cavitation issues I ordered some SCA test stripes and am going to purchase additive from Ford.This spring I plan to flush system and replace T-stat and rad. cap.Any other things I should do? I am running diesel additive for pump lubrication,as pump was a pretty chunk of$$$.Love all the knowledge you guys give to newcomers and much appreciated.One more thing,This truck has aftermarket ATS turbo and its in good shape but only(by my understanding)does it really supply extra power around 2000rpm+ for towing.I bought this truck to be my dedicated plow truck.Is it ok to leave it on or should I look for factory airbox and remove the turbo?Undo stress on engine?

 

[gandalf]

You asked the reason for using ATF. Briefly, it will help clean and lub your IP. Granted, you've stated that you're using an additive for that purpose, but the ATF will provide a much stronger dose of cleaner in a single use.

Fill the fuel filter with ATF and replace it on the engine. Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds or so. You'll hear the engine note change slightly. At that point shut the engine off and let it sit overnight. This will leave the IP full of ATF. In the morning start it up and "drive it like you stole it". The symptom you've described, die-ing when you let up on the go pedal, is indicative of a sticking metering valve.

You bought the IP from Advanced Diesel, a shop unknown to us in the lower 48. The question becomes, who rebuilt the IP, and what is their reputation? Most of us would buy rebuilt IPs only from members of this forum. There are 3 or 4 members who rebuilt IPs. My personal favorite is Russ Repair. He is in the top teir of rebuilders. Be aware, not all IP rebuilders are equal. They range from Russ at the top to scam artists at the bottom. Read the "Hall of Shame" in the Tech Articles at the beginning of this section.

Should you remove a perfectly good turbo? My answer would be an absolute no. You may not use it all the time plowing, but when you need that extra power it's invaluable. When you're not using the additional power of the turbo it is doing no harm to your engine.

 

[salcha sledhead]

On a sidenote.After getting truck running last week and drivivng it home I had Rear ABS light on.Never been on before but have Not put bed back on yet. Would not having bed on/a lot less weight kick off this DTS?Thanks.

 

[salcha sledhead]

Will try the ATF and see if it helps.Also truck has an E4OD and does have temp guage for it.Would like to also have an EGT,where does this probe get mounted?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The place with the most accurate readings is within 8" of the head. A lot of people drill the driver's side exhaust manifold. Wes from Classic Diesel Designs said that he was having trouble with some manifolds cracking while doing this so he likes to weld a bung into the exhaust pipe right below the manifold. That eliminates the cracking and is possible easier to do. It's also still within 8" of the head.
I've seen people say that mounting the probe right before the turbo will make the gauge read 100* less than actual temps. Putting the bung after the turbo, in the down pipe, will make the gauge read 300* less than actual. I don't like math all that well, so I like to put it within 8" of the head.

 

[Olds64]

I installed a pyrometer in the driver's side exhaust manifold of my 6.9l. No turbo or cracks yet but it seems to read fine.

I wouldn't worry about that ABS light while your bed is removed. There is an ABS valve that prevents the rear wheels from locking up without a load in the bed. Removing the bed combined with any ice or snow you might have up north right now could be giving you trouble.

 

[salcha sledhead]

I wouldn't worry about that ABS light while your bed is removed. There is an ABS valve that prevents the rear wheels from locking up without a load in the bed. Removing the bed combined with any ice or snow you might have up north right now could be giving you trouble

Ok .and thanks guys.I kinda figured the extra weight of frame for plow mount,along with no bed was the culprit.Aiming to get bed, rear hitch receiver and fifth wheel attachment back on this weekend before I have surgery and am down for a few months.One more question.My OD light is flashing,what may be the cause.Figured Id unplug the tranny connection and check it/squirt some die electric grease in it.

 

[salcha sledhead]

I wouldn't worry about that ABS light while your bed is removed. There is an ABS valve that prevents the rear wheels from locking up without a load in the bed. Removing the bed combined with any ice or snow you might have up north right now could be giving you trouble

Ok .and thanks guys.I kinda figured the extra weight of frame for plow mount,along with no bed was the culprit.Aiming to get bed, rear hitch receiver and fifth wheel attachment back on this weekend before I have surgery and am down for a few months.One more question.My OD light is flashing,what may be the cause.Figured Id unplug the tranny connection and check it/squirt some die electric grease in it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The flashing OD light could be caused by many different things. If it has a pattern to the flashing, that's a trouble code (if I'm right). Otherwise, you may have to hook in to your OBD port under the hood in order to get the trouble code/s. That's about as far as my (lack of) expertise let's me go.