New engine, No power

[nightrunner84]

I recently built a 7.3, factory turbo engine, and put it in my crew cab. It doesn't have any power, and I can't get it to boost past 8-9 psi. The old engine with the same turbo did 10-12psi, with the original compressor wheel. It has a Wicked Wheel 2, new injection pump/injectors, return line rails, and head studs, all from R&D performance. Suspect that the timing is off (don't have a gauge).

It starts REALLY easy, but rattles loud at tip-in throttle.

It's really disappointing that it has less power that the original, non-factory turbo engine. This has to be something that I've overlooked. Something stupid simple.

Any Ideas?

Also, I forgot to mention that I have one of R&D's cams installed. It's clocked correctly.

 

[gnathv]

Do you have an EGT gauge? I’d check for exhaust leaks, boost leaks, and fuel flow (volume). EGTs would give you an idea of this. If EGTs are low you may need more fuel.

 

[gnathv]

Of course get the timing as close as you can.

 

[nightrunner84]

Do you have an EGT gauge? I’d check for exhaust leaks, boost leaks, and fuel flow (volume). EGTs would give you an idea of this. If EGTs are low you may need more fuel.

EGT's seem a little higher. Normal driving on the old engine was around 600F, now it's 800F.

 

[gnathv]

Sounds like you have more fuel. I’d try adjusting timing and see if it improves power.

 

[gnathv]

I’d still check for exhaust leaks, new turbo wheel should add more air to offset fuel. It doesn’t take much exhaust or boost leak to lower boost and raise EGT.

 

[gnathv]

As far as timing without a meter. Have you ever heard the clatter of the engine change when the cold start solenoid kicks in? Before I had a meter, I adjusted timing and then jumpered the cold start solenoid and listened for that rattle. The cold start advances timing about 2 degrees. When you have it to that point it is awfully close.

 

[nightrunner84]

As far as timing without a meter. Have you ever heard the clatter of the engine change when the cold start solenoid kicks in? Before I had a meter, I adjusted timing and then jumpered the cold start solenoid and listened for that rattle. The cold start advances timing about 2 degrees. When you have it to that point it is awfully close.

I like this method. I know exactly what you're talking about. Will attempt in the morning.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I agree with all of the above, well said!

Other points to consider:
1. IP sounds too advanced if you're getting severe rattle at throttle tip-in. Just saying I'd try retarding it first.
2. Did you change the fuel supply pump? Input pressure to the IP can affect timing, especially on throttle tip-in.

 

[flatwoods]

If you can get it down to Kentucky I can check and set the time on your truck. Or you may want to check the timing registry to see if anyone is closer to you.

 

[nightrunner84]

I agree with all of the above, well said!

Other points to consider:
1. IP sounds too advanced if you're getting severe rattle at throttle tip-in. Just saying I'd try retarding it first.
2. Did you change the fuel supply pump? Input pressure to the IP can affect timing, especially on throttle tip-in.

Thanks, I'll try retarding first. The fuel supply pump is the same.

 

[nightrunner84]

OK, bumped the timing a dimes width, and it runs great. It's suprizing that so little adjustment can make a huge difference. Thanks guys!

 

[gnathv]

If you’re ever able to get a meter put on it there may be more hiding under the hood.

 

[gnathv]

We’re you too advanced or not enough?

 

[nightrunner84]

We’re you too advanced or not enough?

Not enough. The timing marks ended up a dimes width toward the passenger side.