New clutch kit, flywheel, rear seal

[MTKirk]

I am replacing all of the clutch parts on my truck (1987 6.9L 4x4); Clutch disc, pressure plate, TO bearing (zerk grease-able), kevlar pilot bushing, release lever (fork), release lever pivot, and flywheel. I’ve got some squealing, and “catchy” clutch pedal feel going on.

The clutch appears bone dry (looking through the inspection cover), & the truck doesn’t drip any oil, but; it seems to me that as long as I have everything off it would be a shame not to replace the rear seal. I’d love to hear any recommendations on what seal I should get, part #’s please. Or should I just leave the intact seal alone?

Thanks,

Kirk

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[fsmyth]

If it's not leaking, I would leave it be.
Usually, by the time the rear seal leaks, you have other issues that need to be addressed.

 

[dunk]

Count me in the replace it while it's apart crowd. Not a fun job to do twice in a relatively short period of time.

 

[IDIoit]

the T-19 is relatively easy compared to the ZF, 2 hour job. id throw the seal on the shelf if its not leaking.

 

[MTKirk]

I'm leaning toward ordering a new seal & assessing the situation when I get it apart, any body have input on what seal to get?

 

[jhenegh]

I replaced a non-leaking rear seal 18 months ago "while I had it apart for other reasons". I've done it two more times since then because evidently I screwed it up on attempt #1 and #2. I'm a big fan of "while I'm here", but it bit me bad that time. I vote leave it.

 

[jhenegh]

I replaced a non-leaking rear seal 18 months ago "while I had it apart for other reasons". I've done it two more times since then because evidently I screwed it up on attempt #1 and #2. I'm a big fan of "while I'm here", but it bit me bad that time. I vote leave it.

Knock on wood, 1500 miles into attempt #3 and we're still dry

 

[MTKirk]

I replaced a non-leaking rear seal 18 months ago "while I had it apart for other reasons". I've done it two more times since then because evidently I screwed it up on attempt #1 and #2. I'm a big fan of "while I'm here", but it bit me bad that time. I vote leave it.

exact nightmare I hope to avoid, any theories on the two leakers? What brand/part # is currently holding?

 

[chris142]

Is that a greasable throw out bearing? We did my clutch last year with a LUK kit. Took 3 miserable days! Spent a full day trying to get the shifter stabbed back in the trans without stripping the interior. We ended up stripping the interior anyway! Now 7500 miles later my throw out bearing is squeeling

 

[crash-harris]

As an aside, where did you get your clutch fork from? Have a part number?

 

[MTKirk]

Is that a greasable throw out bearing? We did my clutch last year with a LUK kit. Took 3 miserable days! Spent a full day trying to get the shifter stabbed back in the trans without stripping the interior. We ended up stripping the interior anyway! Now 7500 miles later my throw out bearing is squeeling

Yes it's the Ford retrofit kit, they still turn up on e-bay occasionally Part # is F1TZ-7548-B (T-19 only) Pretty dang expensive, but I can no longer tolerate the squeak. I'm not sure my squeak is the TO bearing. I'm suspicious of the fork (E7TZ-7515-A), and the fork pivot (E3TZ-7B602-E), so I'm replacing them as well.

 

[MTKirk]

As an aside, where did you get your clutch fork from? Have a part number?

here you go http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O0SVAM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

It does not look the same as what is in my truck now, and the fork hole seems quite large for the T.O. bearing: watch this space, I'll post up what I figure out.

 

[jhenegh]

exact nightmare I hope to avoid, any theories on the two leakers? What brand/part # is currently holding?

I think I got the seal plate ever so slightly off center on attempt #1. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74923-Correct-way-to-do-rear-main/page2 It started out dry but was dripping within a month after getting the engine back in. It was an SKF (SKF 37405) with no sleeve. Second time I didn't pull the seal plate off and used the Ford/Navistar (F2TZ6701A) seal with the included thick sleeve and install tool. I was NOT impressed with this thing as the install tool was worthless for getting the thick sleeve actually on the crank. It also stayed dry for about a month then started weeping and eventually dripping, just like the other. I had to use a die grinder to carefully cut that thick sleeve off the crank.

3rd attempt I used Felpro seal (BS158681) and the "normal" Felpro speedi sleeve (16256) that is a glorified piece of tin foil. It was much easier to install. I also pulled the seal plate off this time and resealed it and used the fast food cup method to slide the plate on and kinda pushed it around ever so slightly to try and make sure it was centered and not rubbing too ******* any one side of the seal. So far so good, but it has only been 2 months.

Best I can figure I had the plate rubbing the seal wrong or something. Both #1 & 2 failed similarilry in time and volume of the leak.

A leaker is a bigger deal on your manual than my auto. I could change them "when convenient". You clutch disk obviously won't appreciate that

 

[MTKirk]

I think I got the seal plate ever so slightly off center on attempt #1. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74923-Correct-way-to-do-rear-main/page2 It started out dry but was dripping within a month after getting the engine back in. It was an SKF (SKF 37405) with no sleeve. Second time I didn't pull the seal plate off and used the Ford/Navistar (F2TZ6701A) seal with the included thick sleeve and install tool. I was NOT impressed with this thing as the install tool was worthless for getting the thick sleeve actually on the crank. It also stayed dry for about a month then started weeping and eventually dripping, just like the other. I had to use a die grinder to carefully cut that thick sleeve off the crank.

3rd attempt I used Felpro seal (BS158681) and the "normal" Felpro speedi sleeve (16256) that is a glorified piece of tin foil. It was much easier to install. I also pulled the seal plate off this time and resealed it and used the fast food cup method to slide the plate on and kinda pushed it around ever so slightly to try and make sure it was centered and not rubbing too ******* any one side of the seal. So far so good, but it has only been 2 months.

Best I can figure I had the plate rubbing the seal wrong or something. Both #1 & 2 failed similarilry in time and volume of the leak.

A leaker is a bigger deal on your manual than my auto. I could change them "when convenient". You clutch disk obviously won't appreciate that

UGHH!!!!!!!

 

[MTKirk]

Is that a greasable throw out bearing? We did my clutch last year with a LUK kit. Took 3 miserable days! Spent a full day trying to get the shifter stabbed back in the trans without stripping the interior. We ended up stripping the interior anyway! Now 7500 miles later my throw out bearing is squeeling

by the way; what was the issue with your shifter? Sounds like the exact type of situation I'd like to avoid!