1987 6.9L Resurrection Advice

[Cabystander]

I have a 1987 4x4 F250 6.9L NA with about 170K miles. Four speed manual. Bought it new. Love it, but it is in need of TLC. I am an old fort, thinking I want to do some RV'ing before I wear out completely. Looking at the price of new/near new tow vehicles of this class, I can spend some bucks on the "old" F250--which has been a loyal and dependable friend its entire life. I have no real fears about long trips once I get some of the age and wear and tear related problems dealt with and dealt with correctly. I have a finicky girl (in a manner of speaking) friend that I have to convince, if she is to go with me.

I am not a professional mechanic, but have done a lot of shade tree work through the years. Just not on diesels. I prefer to do whatever I can myself--that way I know what was done and who to blame. The old girl (the truck) is dinged up a bit, so am I. We sort of belong together.

I don't have unlimited funds, but I think doing it once, right, is within my budget. Body needs some TLC and paint is a mess. Original.

Right now, it doesn't start at all. Most likely, lift pump is defunct. IP solenoid clicks, but no fuel at loosened injector. Clutch hydraulics and, probably, brake hydraulics need replacement. So long as I don't get into replacing the IP, none of this worries me at all.

Here are my questions:

I have had problems with clutches since the get go. Maybe because I usually start in second, unless pulling a load? Transmission synchros are worn, but the tranny is usable. Clutch is showing signs of going, once again. I think this will be clutch #4. All previous done by stealership. Question: Should I go with stock clutch, or upgrade? Thoughts about clutch upgrades? I don't care a great deal of a bit of noise, just want reliability.

What is the opinion a ZF5 swap a opposed to rebuild of the T19 (?). I know that 7.3L NA 4x4's came with ZF5's, is it a bolt in?

Old friend will haul/pull anything, but slow. I am kind of inclined to go turbo, most likely Hypermax--I only care about load, not blazing acceleration off the line. The rear main seal is leaking. Does it make sense to pull the engine to install the turbo? Real seal leak is mostly a mess, not a problem. I use about 1 qt/1000 miles, has since new.

IP is probably OK. Last replaced maybe 15 years and 25K miles ago. Suggestions as to replacement, or not--assuming it is OK.

Studs?

I am incline to replace the whole glow plug harness. We have a rat problem here. I don't see a lot of damage--actually any--but this vehicle is 30+ years old.

I bypassed the stock water separator. It hadn't worked for years. Thought it might be leaking. Replace with aftermarket?

I have lurked for a couple years here; I have picked up a lot of wisdom. First not to go with cheap aftermarket injectors/glow plugs. Motorcraft.

Any other comments/advice?

My thanks in advance. I have learned a lot lurking, appreciate any up front thoughts/advice.

 

[harrietnorth]

I'd start with trying to determine why the 6.9 won't start. Get the ol' f250 running first.

Fresh Clean Fuel: IMHO, #1 problem with restoration starts are bad/dirty diesel and air leaks in the fuel system.
Batteries: Solid pair of batteries and make sure those battery connections are good and solid.
Public Service Announcement (PSA): When turning over it should really spin (you're creating heat and compression to get it to bark)... that said, respect the 15 seconds crank and 45 seconds rest rule. I've ruined new starters on over cranking. Again, be cognizant of the fact you're turning a lot of iron and fighting against a lot of compression.

It sounds like the filter/water separator was deleted, I'd put it back, if only for the Schrader Valve, comes in handy for purging air and a new filter filled with clean tranny fluid is a good way to bring some cleaning to the IP.

I'm not a fan of starting fluid. all kinds of reasons, washes oil off the cylinder walls, pre-combustion in the glow-plug chamber, bad things can happen with ether. That said, at this point, a little lighting juice might be enough to get it to bark.... proceed at your own peril.

What I'd do: small electric 7psi fuel pump into a fresh jerrycan of diesel pumping into the fuel water separator (bypassing the manual fuel pump) just to be sure I have a good AIR FREE fuel source. Electric pump helps to purge that air without grinding the life outta your starter.

As for Tranny's. a ZF5-42 outta a diesel is the way to go.(no a gasser wont work without modification to the bell housing, and the gear ratios are different) Assuming the ol 250 is running 4:10's, you will want that 5th gear for sure.

Turbo are for sure a nice addition. I have both NA's and IDIT's. NA's are slow and steady, and on flat ground with a tail wind will pull, I would not want to road trip. My IDIT running about 5-7psi of boost with 3:55's will actually pull up a hill with 8k of bobcat behind me. (my definition of pull is - enter the hill at 55mph and leave the hill @57mph).

Word about tires. 235/85/16 will give you the most torque to the ground. The extra circumference coming from 'Big Tires' will make hauling harder, they look nice, but if this is pulling the camper, small tires = good. 5th gear (ZF5)/ 4:10/ 235/38's will be 2700 rpm @ 55mph - fuel economy and a good sweet spot.

Good Luck!

 

[Cabystander]

HarrietNorth: Thanks. Job one is to get it running. I like the idea of a electric pump out of a jerry can of fresh fuel.

Out of town for a couple weeks. Give it a try on return.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The head studs are something that you should do if you're going to install a turbo on a 6.9.