need your guys opinions....

[Dieselcrawler]

cleaning my shop today i realized i got 2 old oil coolers sitting here. both leaked. took em apart and cleaned em up good in my parts washer. then an idea hit me. if i run out to the junk yards, grab maybe 2 more so i will have 4 sitting here, clean em up, rebuild em and paint em up, think any of you guys would get em from me if you are in a pinch and cant rebuild yours? say like 20 bucks over price of parts and a core charge on your old one? a buddy of mine works at the local IH dealer, so i can get orings VERY cheap to rebuild. would send the mounting gaskets with em also. so i am guessing it will be probly 40-50 bucks total plus shipping.


would anyone be interested? if i do this i will build a tester and pressure test every one before setting it on the shelf.


idea?

 

[grog85]

That sounds good.If they are psi tested and for that price, you should have takers.

 

[The Warden]

One other thing you might consider doing is getting in touch with Gary (icanfixall) about re-doing the shims on the oil bypass spring assembly in the aft cooler head. I don't remember the details and certainly don't know how to do it myself, but IIRC he was saying there's a way to re-do it (may involve replacing the spring) and making it so that you get better oil pressure. Might increase the resale value and appeal a bit...actually, if you were to do this, I might consider doing an oil cooler swap even though mine's holding pressure just fine...

 

[Dieselcrawler]

will wait for gary to chime in. i got the ones today popped apart and degreased. gona pull the one head apart and look at the bypass setup tommarow.

 

[93_444idi]

get ready for a dumb question... is this a part that tends to wear over time and needs replaced?

i have a high-mileage 7.3 sitting here I'm gonna rebuild and if this is a part I should replace than I am interested.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

well the orings get hard and brittle and crack and start leaking, almost at the most unwanted time.

 

[seawalkersee]

You are a fool if you do not rebuild them and offer the service. In fact, send them to me and I will do it. If it were me, I would also throw a washer between .05 and .07 behind the oil pump bypass. With the rebuild, you will have 40 solid minutes in it and make money. $50 bux with core, $100 without. O-rings cost me almost $30 alone. I have the p/n for each one listed on my supermotors page.

On second thought, send them all to me and I will get it going.

937.3 IDI, you will want to rebuild everything you can on yours while it is out. Trust the guy who just took his trans out and had to do some other stuff after instlling a "FRESH" engine.

SWS

 

[Dieselcrawler]

well i was going to go all out, soda blast them, paint em gray, all after new orings and tested.

 

[racer30]

I have 4 units 1 is a turbo unit. I would be interested in the oil pressure mod for my rebuild, and the spares will be up for sale cheep. I was looking at the oil filter size, because mine is going into a mh I have lots of room for a taller filter, gona check for a industrial filter thats bigger.

 

[flareside_thun]

Is there a difference in cooler between the turbo and NA engines?

 

[OLDBULL8]

I have 4 units 1 is a turbo unit. I would be interested in the oil pressure mod for my rebuild, and the spares will be up for sale cheep. I was looking at the oil filter size, because mine is going into a mh I have lots of room for a taller filter, gona check for a industrial filter thats bigger.

Just use the oil filter for the PSD, twice as big. Walmart 9.95

 

[OLDBULL8]

Is there a difference in cooler between the turbo and NA engines?

No difference that I know of. All the IDI have the same cooler, PSD's are different they have the engine coolant heater in the rear head, IIRC tube packs are the same, but heads are not.

 

[icanfixall]

Great idea there.... At one time we could buy a turbo and non turbo oil cooler bundle... Now all we can buy is turbo bundles. They have 31 fins per inch so they cool the engine oil much better. About building a "test station"... Be sure you don't blow the heads off the ends of the bundle. I built some pressure plates and do test mine... Don't test higher than 30 or 35 lbs. There just isn't any need to go higher even though the engine oil pressure does reach 40 + lbs... About the pressure regulating spring and shimming it... First you need to know why the oil pressure drops on high mileage engines... The spring is rubbing on the regulater port in the header so it thins down the spring. Any shims added to this will work for a short time because the spring has been compromised. I tried to find a replacement spring but finally gave up on that. I know some manufacture can do it if given a sample. I used a new reah header and added 70 thousands of shims under the spring. It works great too but this is a tuff job. The regulater part is staked into the soft aluminum rear housing and difficult to get out. It can be done but you need a very small burr in a dremel tool. I use the point or ball end burrs in the 1/8 shank size. The best place to get them is McMaster Carr. The stainless steel shims I made are from some very small stainless steel washers. When you get the system apart you will know what you need and how this system works. Don't confuse the bypass valve for the regulating valve... You can only see the regulating valve when the header is off the engine... Hope this helps out some. The rear headers are around $350.00 new and a bundle is around $300.00 new....

 

[dyoung14]

No difference that I know of. All the IDI have the same cooler, PSD's are different they have the engine coolant heater in the rear head, IIRC tube packs are the same, but heads are not.

yes there is a difference the turbo one is better see ICANFIXALLS post

 

[ManicMike]

I'd be interested in one, god know's when the last time mine was rebuilt (truck has 215k on it, and is 19 years old).