Need brake help again...

[Matrix37495]

Usually the size is on the opposite side of the brake tubing and cast right in...look at these pics for some reference, the first with two MC's one is stock for the Bronco, then the other is the one of a 90 hydro boost setup, the second pic is a 03 SD 350 diesel hydro MC

Must just be on the newer masters... I've got the old cast iron one.

I'm taking my truck to work tomorrow so i'll do some brake checking...

 

[riotwarrior]

making sure the adjusters actually move is an important thing on older trucks.
Take the adjusters out, unthread them the whole way. Clean the threads carefully, oil and reassemble.
Make sure to take the front piece off as well.... clean it out and oil it. Make sure that the whole unit can thread in and out with ease.

I don't know about OIL...but I do this with HI temp anti seize for sure...never ever do I use oil.

JM2CW

If you are uncertain about rear wheel cylinders, replace them.

When I first bought my one truck, it stopped ok.... not great but ok. I decided to replace/rebuild everything in the brake system.
Wheel cylinders are the end of the road for the brake lines......
any crap that may form or break off in the course of the last 20-30 years ends up here.

So far in regards to the brakes all you have done is thrown parts at the problem. You have never ascertained what the real problem is.
Do yourself a favor and jack the entire vehicle up (or at least, front then the rear).
Spin the wheel by hand and have someone gently push the brake, you will learn a lot in a hurry and at least know which direction to go.
The rear wheels also are supposed to have a tiny amount of brake drag when adjusted properly.... if they spin and do not just barely touch, they are too far out.

good luck,
drew

All very good points indeed, often the soft pedal or extremely long travel is just an ill adjusted brake shoe,

Me, I adjust for drag then go press brakes for few times then check again as the pressing the brakes seems to settle the shoes into place and often there needs to be a few more or sometimes less clicks of adjustment. Doing of course one side at a time till I get as equal as my HAND dyno torque meter can tell that is.

Again good points Drew.

 

[riotwarrior]

... I've got the old cast iron one...

Hmmm...pics of that MC might be good...have not seen an antiquated version of an ancient relic like that in ages

 

[Matrix37495]

OK...cast steel...it's cast something....

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[DeepRoots]

I don't know about OIL...but I do this with HI temp anti seize for sure...never ever do I use oil.

Well, I'm talking about taking this apart on the bench.... a drip or two of oil, wiped off isn't an issue. I am not suggesting an oil pump into the drum Either way, something to keep it from corroding.

Another random thought.... make sure the new shoes fit in the drum with good contact. I *have* gotten them where they do not contact on the whole surface.

I'll say this once (so I'm not belaboring the point). New master, SS lines, new hoses, new wheel cylinders, new calipers, new pads, 1 gallon of brake fluid (to flush everything out) an ENTIRELY new, well adjusted, grade A brake system can be had/built for under $400.
I have no problem spending 3-5thousand making more horsepower.... it takes 1 hour a year to take apart and inspect your braking system.


Good luck,
Drew

 

[rwilles]

X2 what Riotwarrior said.

This last summer had a funky fade in and out thing on the brakes, started in the front and replaced everything in steps thinking I had found the problem each time. Pads, Rotors, rebuilt the master cylinder. I had just replaced the vacuum pump so i knew i had good vacuum boost. Problem turned out to be a shoe that had twisted away from a cylinder in the right rear with the failure of the hardware. The peddle would fade like a master cylinder. I think your rear end requires you to unbolt the drums so you have more of an reason than I did. I just never got that far.

Robb

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

+1 with DeepRoots on putting your truck on jackstands and checking all four corners with somebody applying pedal pressure and seeing what brakes are truly functioning. Frozen rear adjusters are a common culprit, whether they look bad or not. I'd look at your rear brakes and remove and anti-seize the adjusters and make certain they are capable of adjusting.

With some patience and elimination of variables, you'll eventually find the problem.

Good luck

 

[Matrix37495]

In my defense, i wasnt just throwing parts at it. Most of the parts i replaced was for a reason. The booster was leaking, the master was leaking, the caliper had gotten so hot it melted the boots, and the hoses hadn't been secured and were rubbing.

They dug out the pad in front of the shop and clipped a power line so i didnt get to check things out yesterday...