ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
I'm in Old Bridge I thought you were still in town. I have the press if you want to do the bushings.
Need brain(storming)
- Thread starter Danielle
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
Can't you use a balljoint press and not even have to remove them? That's how I did the trailing arms, well I air hammered them out and pressed the new ones in with a balljoint press.
Have you checked to ensure each c forging on end of axles where bj sits are both within spec for inclination of caster angle and axle is straight and true?
Usually check w electric angle finder ....
Usually check w electric angle finder ....
I beam bushings look like they may have been slightly worn past spec (@$#$@!#@) and radius arm bushings look like the previous owner made them himself. The two sides do not match either haha.
So far thanks to this forum got the I beam bushings out ok.
I keep seeing if I'm doing this I can pull the axle forward to do the radius arm bushings also.
What else needs to be unbolted to be able to do this? The brackets are riveted in and look in good shape so if I can pull axle forward I'd like to do that.
Has anyone done it that way?
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So far thanks to this forum got the I beam bushings out ok.
I keep seeing if I'm doing this I can pull the axle forward to do the radius arm bushings also.
What else needs to be unbolted to be able to do this? The brackets are riveted in and look in good shape so if I can pull axle forward I'd like to do that.
Has anyone done it that way?
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I thought this was a 4wd? I removed and installed these beams by myself on two different dually trucks, one on jack stands the other on a lift. It's not too hard, I use a ratchet strap to strap the trailing arm into place (big stud) once the part to the Kmember is bolted in. I use a jack to help line that part up.
No this piggy is 2wd. My other truck is 4wd.
Did you also do radius arm bushings? I think I need to disconnect coil spring to be able to pull axle forward?
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I can't remember which bushing is which. I did all 4. The big ones that fall out under the cab are easy the smaller ones are harder that bolt to the kmember. I believe I hole sawed the rubber out then used an air chisel to crush the bushing sleeve inward to get it out. Then used a balljoint press to get the new ones in. I replaced springs at the same time so I don't remember but I think you'd need to undo that small bolt up top and the shocks plus sway bar.
gnathv
Full Access Member
Take wheel and shock off, jack it up till spring is free. Unbolt. Put floor jack under axle at spring mount. Remove radius arm nut. Take bolt out of I beam bushing, pry I beam out of mount and move whole assembly forward. Replace bushings and reassemble.
I've done it alone, two people would be a big help.
I've done it alone, two people would be a big help.
papadiesel
Full Access Member
with many trucks in that era, needed steering stabilizer even with new set ups, especially in longer body styles, seen this in F250, F350 4wd and 2wd
Awesome thank you! My only available helpers are 3 and 4 years old, unfortunately haha
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After I confirm death wobble is repaired I do have a stabilizer here to install... One day
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BR3
Full Access Member
Where to begin......do the radius arm bushings before the axle pivot bushings,that way the play in the pivot bushings allows you to leave everything but the radius arm attached.
On our trucks stabilizers are 100% certainly not needed to live wobble free. From personal experience fixing and diagnosing at least two cases of death wobble a day for the past two years I've learned that very,VERY minor things that are nearly in noticeable can cause it. I've seen jeeps with less than 4k miles have it, it doesn't take much at all. I have also learned that on our trucks there are two spots to look at that most never think.
1. The front cross member rivet right behind the gearbox on the driver's side. I've seen 6 trucks with that rivet(/bolt depending on what it's on) come loose over the years and cause wobble
2. Both pivot arm brackets. Usually the passenger side is to blame, but I've seen both loose before. Inspect the cross member around those brackets too. If it was bad enough for long enough it will have cracked the frame.
Another thing is that unless you have a red head or psc gearbox, it's probably bad right out of the box. Again doing probably three a week on all makes of rigs and 4x4s, I've only seen maybe two that were good from a-1 Cardone (who makes pretty much all but factory reman boxes, and even some of those too) the whole time I've been at it. Make sure the pitman arm is torqued to 250 ft-lb as well. 1 of every three that I've seen replaced were loose. Don't forget to check your steering column joints too. Any play from the road to your hand can be a contributing factor,or even a cause.
Try switching tires from different positions on the truck as well. I have seen even o.k. tires that were not old and didn't ride bad set off a harmonic vibe that causes death wobble.
When all else fails, put the stabilizer on and let it mask the problem long enough that you can see the problem. I've only ever had to do that once, but after letting the customer drive it that way for three months, I found that his frame (unibody Jeep xj) was flexing just ever so slightly at the gearbox.
Hope this helps!
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On our trucks stabilizers are 100% certainly not needed to live wobble free. From personal experience fixing and diagnosing at least two cases of death wobble a day for the past two years I've learned that very,VERY minor things that are nearly in noticeable can cause it. I've seen jeeps with less than 4k miles have it, it doesn't take much at all. I have also learned that on our trucks there are two spots to look at that most never think.
1. The front cross member rivet right behind the gearbox on the driver's side. I've seen 6 trucks with that rivet(/bolt depending on what it's on) come loose over the years and cause wobble
2. Both pivot arm brackets. Usually the passenger side is to blame, but I've seen both loose before. Inspect the cross member around those brackets too. If it was bad enough for long enough it will have cracked the frame.
Another thing is that unless you have a red head or psc gearbox, it's probably bad right out of the box. Again doing probably three a week on all makes of rigs and 4x4s, I've only seen maybe two that were good from a-1 Cardone (who makes pretty much all but factory reman boxes, and even some of those too) the whole time I've been at it. Make sure the pitman arm is torqued to 250 ft-lb as well. 1 of every three that I've seen replaced were loose. Don't forget to check your steering column joints too. Any play from the road to your hand can be a contributing factor,or even a cause.
Try switching tires from different positions on the truck as well. I have seen even o.k. tires that were not old and didn't ride bad set off a harmonic vibe that causes death wobble.
When all else fails, put the stabilizer on and let it mask the problem long enough that you can see the problem. I've only ever had to do that once, but after letting the customer drive it that way for three months, I found that his frame (unibody Jeep xj) was flexing just ever so slightly at the gearbox.
Hope this helps!
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BR3
Full Access Member
I should also mention it's best to check these things with weight on the truck, and having a friend,wife, cheap worker,village idiot,village genius dog, a team of birds that are tied together flying back and forth,your great aunt Sally,my great aunt Sally, that weird neighbor kid that only comes out of the house when his high pitched mother yells at him to mow the grass, that machine the mythbusters use to remotely drive cars, or any able bodied being, shake the steering wheel for you
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papadiesel
Full Access Member
BR# has good advice, as I have also been through his list above, the tire switching is a good place to start as it is free, but found this to be an issue with the larger f series and longer, your bushings tell a tale as well, let us know when it is right! just here to help as a mechanic of 40 plus years, 25 plus on these rigs two and 4x4
Myoldbonze1956
Registered User
Give Somerset spring a call on 1st Ave in Raritan between 202 and main St.
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