my new 1994 factory turbo

[cardana24]

I picked up this truck two days ago. I'ts a 94 with a factory turbo. I have a few questions.

1) I am in the process of cleaning it up and freshening up some fluids. I picked up some Fleet charge, I drained the radiator and poped out both block drains. While the drains are out I am going to swap in the 1/4 npt petcock valves that a few people have mentioned here. So my question about this is that all I need to do before adding the new coolant/water? It had standard green anti freeze in in before, and I want to give it a fres start on the Fleet charge. If it still needs to be flushed out more where do I add the water? Heater hose?

2) I also want to add a coolant filter while I am doing all of this. Do you guys have pictures of where you normally add yours? Do you normally splice into a heater hose?

3) I am also wondering if there are any intake mods that you can do on the factory turbo (other than intercooler) that will add power? I want going to put an open element filter on it but after looking at it more the factory set up looks pretty efficient.

Can you guys help me out? Thanks for any help.

 

[93f250idi]

you can do an ATS upgrade housing. you see the factory ATS housings have lumps welded in them to keep from spooling up so quick. its costly but suposedly effective.

 

[Diesel JD]

Typ 4 is the man to talk to about turbo upgrades. I'd deal with him, not ATS. Someone just said ATS won't sell downpipes to us anymore but if you can get it anywhere you need to get rid of the poor factory turbo downpipe. It is restrictive because it was flattened in places to help clear the firewall. To do that you need to do something about the exhaust flange because it is set up to only accept a 2.5" downpipe which is really kind of restrictive for these turbos. The best intake mod going is the hypermax cowl induction tube. I have it and like it. I was initially afraid of it because we get a lot of rain here, but I have never seen any sign whatsoever of water near my turbo inlet or in the airbox, so my fears are probably not warranted. Mind you we get 45-50" of rain per year hear, often it's VERY heavy in the summer, so if I don't have problems I doubt if you will.

 

[cardana24]

I'll look into that, but for some reason I thought ATS did not have anything for us right now?

What about the coolant stuff? Can I go ahead and re fill or do I need to flush it more? I am hoping to finish this up tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Rot Box]

Here is my coolant filter install thread http://oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40512 I figured once I was in there I might as well replace all the hoses and hose clamps too. Hopefully I won't have to deal with any of that stuff for awhile

The factory intake should flow pretty good but you may want to look into the Hypermax cowl induction. I've been hearing a lot of good things about this setup including cooler EGT's. http://www.gohypermax.com/Catalog.a...5ea0&sub=1aaf0727-f9d6-4a70-b63c-9ca1d81e817a Also I would consider removing the stock turbo downpipe to be mandatory before any performance mods are considered.


EDIT Diesel DJ is faster at typing than me

 

[franklin2]

There is another drain plug on the oil cooler above the oil filter location. Drain it and all the coolant will be out of it. I flushed mine after this also, but nothing but water came out, so these 3 drains really get it all out.

I picked up a article off one of these boards where a guy took a powerstroke downfall pipe and modified it to fit the 94 turbo. You will still be using the 2.5 outlet, but after looking at the factory pipe, even with the stock outlet a larger downfall pipe and a larger exhaust will have some benefit. You might be able to get a muffler shop to make you a new downfall pipe.

 

[Diesel JD]

Not sure what to tell you about the coolant stuff. It kind of depends on how thorough you feel you need to be and how bad the old coolant was before you changed it. Personally I wouldn't worry much assuming the new coolant is what I think it is...low silicate ethylene glycol with SCAs already added. I'd worry even less if I was adding a coolant filter. Personally I'd probably flush it with water through the rad until it was clear at the block drains and I got as much water out as I could. With conventional coolant a little water won't matter at all. If you were switching to an extended life(organic acid technology) coolant or Evans Waterless then I'd say you need to get ALL the water out and be real thorough. I'd also worry if the old coolant was a mess of vomit looking rust or contaminated with oil or lots of solids. Otherwise...don't worry, just keep the SCAs up and add the filter if you want to and call it good. About ATS I haven't dealt with them in a long time, most people here don't like their attitude but some good people work there and some have gotten good help. You never know what the status of their relationship with the IDIs is. I thought they were getting out of the market a few years ago when they discontinued support of the 093 and factory turbo, but they got back in at least for awhile with the Aurora 2000 kit. I did buy a downpipe from one of their dealers, JH Diesel in August 2007 but it was an effort to get it.

 

[Rot Box]

When I flushed my coolant I used several gallons of distilled water. I flushed through the heater core until coolant drained from the rear block fittings on both sides until only clear water came out. Then I flushed though the upper radiator hose/-tstat housing and waited until it came out clear. Once all the water came out clean and clear I poured antifreeze through and waited until the deep red fluid came out of the block drains then I quickly closed them--buttoned everything back up and topped off the radiator with 8 gallons of fresh ELC. Seemed to work pretty good

Remember the NAPA brand and many others coolant filters have different amounts of SCA's in them depending on how much you need (if any)

 

[93f250idi]

when you call ats ask for mike ill get the ext number tommarow i think its 107 not sure but he seems to know a little about the idi's. he does good customer service he even went to the ware house to check on a part for me! now another guy there hung up on me so its all in who you talk to!

 

[dansvan]

A member on here with a temp. probe in the intake noted a 2 degree drop in intake temps with the hypermax over the factory setup. Not worth it in my opinion. There are no lumps welded inside the factory turbine housing. That's a myth. The outlet size of the turbine housing elbow is 2.25 inches on the factory outlet. . It is possible to cut it off and weld in a 3 inch pipe to it for a 3" downpipe. Swap to non turbo injectors, turn the pump up, turn up the wastegate, put a free flowing exhaust on it. Back to the intake, you can cut a little and trim a little on the factory set up by the radiator, you can direct alot more cool air to the intake snorkle.

 

[93f250idi]

A member on here with a temp. probe in the intake noted a 2 degree drop in intake temps with the hypermax over the factory setup. Not worth it in my opinion. There are no lumps welded inside the factory turbine housing. That's a myth. The outlet size of the turbine housing elbow is 2.25 inches on the factory outlet. . It is possible to cut it off and weld in a 3 inch pipe to it for a 3" downpipe. Swap to non turbo injectors, turn the pump up, turn up the wastegate, put a free flowing exhaust on it.

o my mistake?? why swap to non turbo injectors?

 

[dansvan]

The g code injectors are said to be emissions injectors. The non turbo injectors flow more at a lower pop pressure. I just switched out the g codes that have less than 5k miles on them for non turbo ones. Truck runs SO much better. Also my research has found that A,B,BB,C etc injectors are all the same now. So buy a high quality set and run them. Also make sure the injection pump timing is set by someone that knows how to use a meter.

 

[fury9]

put the dam thing on

 

[cardana24]

Typ 4 is the man to talk to about turbo upgrades. I'd deal with him, not ATS. Someone just said ATS won't sell downpipes to us anymore but if you can get it anywhere you need to get rid of the poor factory turbo downpipe. It is restrictive because it was flattened in places to help clear the firewall. To do that you need to do something about the exhaust flange because it is set up to only accept a 2.5" downpipe which is really kind of restrictive for these turbos. The best intake mod going is the hypermax cowl induction tube. I have it and like it. I was initially afraid of it because we get a lot of rain here, but I have never seen any sign whatsoever of water near my turbo inlet or in the airbox, so my fears are probably not warranted. Mind you we get 45-50" of rain per year hear, often it's VERY heavy in the summer, so if I don't have problems I doubt if you will.

Who is Typ 4? Is he a member here or is that a vendor?

Here is my coolant filter install thread http://oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40512 I figured once I was in there I might as well replace all the hoses and hose clamps too. Hopefully I won't have to deal with any of that stuff for awhile

The factory intake should flow pretty good but you may want to look into the Hypermax cowl induction. I've been hearing a lot of good things about this setup including cooler EGT's. http://www.gohypermax.com/Catalog.a...5ea0&sub=1aaf0727-f9d6-4a70-b63c-9ca1d81e817a Also I would consider removing the stock turbo downpipe to be mandatory before any performance mods are considered.


EDIT Diesel DJ is faster at typing than me

Does any one have a picture of the hypermax installed? I'll check out your coolant filter thread in a little bit. Thanks for the link.

There is another drain plug on the oil cooler above the oil filter location. Drain it and all the coolant will be out of it. I flushed mine after this also, but nothing but water came out, so these 3 drains really get it all out.

I picked up a article off one of these boards where a guy took a powerstroke downfall pipe and modified it to fit the 94 turbo. You will still be using the 2.5 outlet, but after looking at the factory pipe, even with the stock outlet a larger downfall pipe and a larger exhaust will have some benefit. You might be able to get a muffler shop to make you a new downfall pipe.

I am hoping that my first efficiency/power mod is using a 3" downpipe. I just need to figure out the best route for this.

The g code injectors are said to be emissions injectors. The non turbo injectors flow more at a lower pop pressure. I just switched out the g codes that have less than 5k miles on them for non turbo ones. Truck runs SO much better. Also my research has found that A,B,BB,C etc injectors are all the same now. So buy a high quality set and run them. Also make sure the injection pump timing is set by someone that knows how to use a meter.

I'll look into the non turbo injectors. Also I am not familiar with how to set the timing on a diesel. I'll search for a thread on that.

put the dam thing on

I donk know what you are talking about


Yesterday I finished up with a few things. Other than cleaning, I changed the oil with rotella, and put on a fresh powerstroke filter. I changed the fuel filter. The most time consuming thing I did was change the coolant. I while I had the block drains out I replaced them with 1/4" petcock valves. I was able to take the drains out with out removing the oil filter or starter. I wrapped the exposed hot wires going to the starter with duct tape and I was able to get to the drain out with socket and some extensions, then I put the drains in with a 9/16" crows foot.

Anyway, diesels are new to me so I am still learning. I'll post some pictures once I take some.

 

[icanfixall]

Typ4 is Russ. He is a member here from oregon. Really a great guy too. Knows plenty about thes trucks and motor too. I think he knows more about turbos than anyone on this forum. He can rebuild or upgrade many differant makes. PM him any questions... Install a set of BB code injectors. They will outperform the G codes all day long...