Motor's in...ready to chug

[JeffMoss1]

I can't seem to find the torque value for the flywheel to torque converter nuts...does anyone know that offhand?

I have the factory ford book...but maybe I'm just a bad looker upper. I can't seem to find it anywhere.

Other than that, I'm about to take her around the block. I've gotta go get one more nut for the TC studs then...if no one has replied with a torque value...i'm going to Jeff-torque them and taker her around the block!

Maybe i'll have actually, successfully rebuilt an engine!!!

 

[JeffMoss1]

Oh and by the way...the fuel leak I was hunting for...I found it. The steel line from the filter to the nose of the IP was ruptured in about the most difficult to see location (in a van remember.) So that part's on order.

I read a post about someone talking about these steel lines being problematic. Just wanted to throw another case of a ruptured fuel line out there incase anyone out there is hunting for leaks.

Jeff

 

[69oiler]

 

[icanfixall]

Factory stats for the flywheel flexplate to the cank torque is 47 lbs. The torque converter bolts are 40 to 50 lbs. Make sure the bolts for the crank to flexplate have something on them to seal the threads. Those bolt holes in the crank end coutinue into the crankcase oily side. You will have oil everywhere if you don't seal them up. I have used RTV but now I use blue Loctite in them.

 

[JeffMoss1]

Factory stats for the flywheel flexplate to the cank torque is 47 lbs. The torque converter bolts are 40 to 50 lbs. Make sure the bolts for the crank to flexplate have something on them to seal the threads. Those bolt holes in the crank end coutinue into the crankcase oily side. You will have oil everywhere if you don't seal them up. I have used RTV but now I use blue Loctite in them.

Too late...I jeff-torqued them.

As for the flywheel to crank bolts...I realized, just reading around on the site, soon after assembling the engine/trans that the loctite was there for sealing purposes...not just for vibration.

So...there's nothing sealing those bolts right now...I'm gonna see how bad it leaks and assess the situation from there. Just so I don't go insane, if possible, i'm going to leave it for now and just watch the oil level.

BUT other than that...

IT"S RUNNING!!!!!!

Just drove it around for like 10 minutes. Didn't take it on the highway yet...but everything sounds great.


So what now?? Is there anything left to do after the rebuild? Do I need to get it professionally timed? I changed the oil once already...when should I do it again next?

Regarding the timing, I used the IP I got from Rob, but I got new injectors. Whatdya think?

 

[Agnem]

Get it timed so you can really enjoy it!