I'm on the fence...
Looking like I can get an aluminum radiator from Champion, the price is right and performance is probably better than my OEM brass unit.
But, it's aluminum.
From what I've found on this forum and elsewhere to flush the Ford IDI cooling system right, is a bit of a process. Flush,
reverse flush, rust conversion, and seasoning for new coolant.
The question is, "Flush the system now, then pull the radiator?" or do I want to run a flush through my new
aluminum and hope it all goes away?
Couple Notes.
-This is a 6.9L with 64k orig miles, it looks like the cooling system was never maintained, or if it was,
the maintenance stopped a while ago (the van sat a long while not being driven, but was started.)
-This is a Club Wagon, it has an extensive heating/AC system. There are two heat elements, one at the dash and
the other is on the Driver's Side amidships.
-I replaced a rotted hardline under the flooring today and when I took the airsaw to the bad part of the line, a bunch
of very old rusty water spewed out, so that part of the circuit has NOT been open in a loooong time.
-Looking into the radiator, the passages have a bit of rusty soot but the slits are mostly clear.
-Liquid coming out of the system is yellow, not green like with gas.
-Aside from a recent leak, (I caused accidentally while getting the BW1356 shift linkage to work,) there are a couple
tiny weeps coming from the radiator itself, up in the middle someplace. (NO fins appear damaged.)
There is a Radiator Shop in town, they specialize in older vehicles, but last I saw the boiling and inspection costs almost
as much as a new aluminum, and I'd still have the OEM performance. I am told NOT to get the OEM radiator rodded, just
boiled.
The Champion is thinner (good for intercooler later ) but it is aluminum so I am not sure how the IDI is gonna like
that. I want to be able to service in the field and at least limp home, so I need to get schooled on additives needed.
Any ideas how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!
Best regards,
George
Looking like I can get an aluminum radiator from Champion, the price is right and performance is probably better than my OEM brass unit.
But, it's aluminum.
From what I've found on this forum and elsewhere to flush the Ford IDI cooling system right, is a bit of a process. Flush,
reverse flush, rust conversion, and seasoning for new coolant.
The question is, "Flush the system now, then pull the radiator?" or do I want to run a flush through my new
aluminum and hope it all goes away?
Couple Notes.
-This is a 6.9L with 64k orig miles, it looks like the cooling system was never maintained, or if it was,
the maintenance stopped a while ago (the van sat a long while not being driven, but was started.)
-This is a Club Wagon, it has an extensive heating/AC system. There are two heat elements, one at the dash and
the other is on the Driver's Side amidships.
-I replaced a rotted hardline under the flooring today and when I took the airsaw to the bad part of the line, a bunch
of very old rusty water spewed out, so that part of the circuit has NOT been open in a loooong time.
-Looking into the radiator, the passages have a bit of rusty soot but the slits are mostly clear.
-Liquid coming out of the system is yellow, not green like with gas.
-Aside from a recent leak, (I caused accidentally while getting the BW1356 shift linkage to work,) there are a couple
tiny weeps coming from the radiator itself, up in the middle someplace. (NO fins appear damaged.)
There is a Radiator Shop in town, they specialize in older vehicles, but last I saw the boiling and inspection costs almost
as much as a new aluminum, and I'd still have the OEM performance. I am told NOT to get the OEM radiator rodded, just
boiled.
The Champion is thinner (good for intercooler later ) but it is aluminum so I am not sure how the IDI is gonna like
that. I want to be able to service in the field and at least limp home, so I need to get schooled on additives needed.
Any ideas how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!
Best regards,
George