rodymartin
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Is there a way to build or but a manual fuel pump shut off?
Manual shut off
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MIDNIGHT RIDER
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If there is a kill-lever already mounted on the injector-pump, I have yet to find it.
With an electric fuel-solenoid, such as these have, it is entirely possible for the shut-off to fail in such a way that one cannot kill the engine; they can also fail such that one cannot start the engine, all because of some silly electric device.
A manual kill-lever always works.
In the absence of a manual kill-lever, one could install a cable-operated ball-valve in the main fuel-line itself.
The disadvantage to this is that the pump has to actually "run out" of fuel, before the engine stops; without some experimentation, I can't venture a guess as to just how long this would take.
With the immediate drop in pressure, caused by the valve completely stopping the flow of fuel, shut-down may be almost immediate.
I see no problem with air-intrusion, such as happens when a tank sucks dry, as the valve will have fuel on both sides, with no way for air to enter, so start-up should not be affected.
One would have to "make" the cable-operated valve by building a suitable bracket and affixing the cable to the valve, or, better yet, attaching an operating lever to the valve and a cable to that.
Spring assist would be needed to re-open the valve, as the cable would tend to just collapse.
Once installed and working, the electric shut-off should be "gutted" of it's internal workings and re-installed in a no longer functioning state.
With an electric fuel-solenoid, such as these have, it is entirely possible for the shut-off to fail in such a way that one cannot kill the engine; they can also fail such that one cannot start the engine, all because of some silly electric device.
A manual kill-lever always works.
In the absence of a manual kill-lever, one could install a cable-operated ball-valve in the main fuel-line itself.
The disadvantage to this is that the pump has to actually "run out" of fuel, before the engine stops; without some experimentation, I can't venture a guess as to just how long this would take.
With the immediate drop in pressure, caused by the valve completely stopping the flow of fuel, shut-down may be almost immediate.
I see no problem with air-intrusion, such as happens when a tank sucks dry, as the valve will have fuel on both sides, with no way for air to enter, so start-up should not be affected.
One would have to "make" the cable-operated valve by building a suitable bracket and affixing the cable to the valve, or, better yet, attaching an operating lever to the valve and a cable to that.
Spring assist would be needed to re-open the valve, as the cable would tend to just collapse.
Once installed and working, the electric shut-off should be "gutted" of it's internal workings and re-installed in a no longer functioning state.
They do make solenoid operated 12 volt valves. I would suggest using a normally open to flow with spring return, that is it will only block flow when you power it.
I am also in agreement that I would question what would happen to the pump should it continue to cycle without fuel flowing to it.
I am also in agreement that I would question what would happen to the pump should it continue to cycle without fuel flowing to it.
I have seen top covers on our types of pumps for heavy equipment with manual shut offs.
I was about to say, I should think it would be off the shelf equipment. I remember driving enough older trucks that had manual fuel shutoffs with a big knob and cable either out the dash or up from the floor. I can't remember how they hooked up, but I'm sure it performed the same simple on/ off that the solenoid does on the newer ones.
I bet a trip to a pump shop would get you all kinds of ideas.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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I don't know about the newer ones; but, both the 1st and 2nd Gen. Cummins come factory-equipped with a manual shut-down lever as a part of the pump.
It is a common fix to simply "gut" the solenoid and attach a kill-cable to the lever.
Like RLDSL said, I am sure the necessary parts can be had for a different application; Ford just decided to go cheap and leave them off.
I like everything as manual and mechanical as I can make it, except that I dislike pedals in favor of diesel power.
It is a common fix to simply "gut" the solenoid and attach a kill-cable to the lever.
Like RLDSL said, I am sure the necessary parts can be had for a different application; Ford just decided to go cheap and leave them off.
I like everything as manual and mechanical as I can make it, except that I dislike pedals in favor of diesel power.
I know on all the older European car diesels, the pumps built for auto tranny installations would come with manual shut down levers on them, but the ones built for manual tranny installations would not ( assuming that you could just pop the clutch and stall the thing )
