Mag-hytec diff cover

pickupman

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So I ordered a mag-hytec diff cover for the Sterling 10.25 axle. My question for you guys is if anyone has installed one, are you filling it to the stock level or the level that Mag-hytec recommends? It sounds like some people have had issues with axle seals leaking filling it to the level that Mag-hytec says to. I'm inclined to try that level first and then drain it back to the stock level if there are any leaks. I am concerned that using the stock level might be a little to low for the larger pan, but I don't know, anyone have any thoughts on this?
 

PwrSmoke

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Mag-Hytec makes some compelling points about the choice of oil level, the main one being that the axle bearings are kept better lubricated and cooled. In reality, if you end up with a leak at what is really only a slightly higher oil level, you probably had a leak waiting to happen anyway. I have had my Mag-Hytec filled to that level since '04 and my truck still has the original '86 seals... no leaks. But if I had had any leaks, I would have just fixed them and taken it as a sign rather than a PITA. I like the product very much.
 

riotwarrior

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So I ordered a mag-hytec diff cover for the Sterling 10.25 axle. My question for you guys is if anyone has installed one, are you filling it to the stock level or the level that Mag-hytec recommends? It sounds like some people have had issues with axle seals leaking filling it to the level that Mag-hytec says to. I'm inclined to try that level first and then drain it back to the stock level if there are any leaks. I am concerned that using the stock level might be a little to low for the larger pan, but I don't know, anyone have any thoughts on this?

LEAKS are often an issue with a higher fill NOT due to the increased capacity and higher level of oil, but the reduced air space for expansion of WARMED/HEATED air when one has a CLOGGED breather tube.

If Air can escape and enter freely there usually is no issue with a slight overfill....as the air heats and cools it expands and contracts hence the need for breather.

NEW seals don't hurt anything either but if they are not leaking now increased level in and of it's self will not induce a leak


Just sayin

Mag-Hytec makes some compelling points about the choice of oil level, the main one being that the axle bearings are kept better lubricated and cooled. In reality, if you end up with a leak at what is really only a slightly higher oil level, you probably had a leak waiting to happen anyway. I have had my Mag-Hytec filled to that level since '04 and my truck still has the original '86 seals... no leaks. But if I had had any leaks, I would have just fixed them and taken it as a sign rather than a PITA. I like the product very much.

Yes an increase in oil volume can provide for better lubrication, and if a leak does indeed occur, you have a greater volume of oil to go through before catastrophic failure.

I am not sure how an increased volume of oil can impact keeping bearings cooler, as to me, it would just take a bit longer to increase the larger volume of oil to the running temp, albeit it you still have a larger volume of oil now touching the tubes and housing so perhaps that would then cool quicker I'm not a temp tester scientist guy so I don't know for sure.

Good luck with yer choice....

JM2CW
 
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icanfixall

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Definitely check the breather hose to insure its clear. If they plug up because a bug made a nest in them you sure will have a seal leak. Mag Hitech makes a great product. I have their E4OD tran pan on my trans. It adds an extra 2 gallons of trans fluid.. I'm in high cotton with that...:thumbsup::angel:
 

PwrSmoke

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I am not sure how an increased volume of oil can impact keeping bearings cooler, as to me, it would just take a bit longer to increase the larger volume of oil to the running temp, albeit it you still have a larger volume of oil now touching the tubes and housing so perhaps that would then cool quicker I'm not a temp tester scientist guy so I don't know for sure.

Good luck with yer choice....

JM2CW

If you look closely, you will see that at the normal level, the oil doesn't really go up the axle tubes. When you turn and such, oil flows out and back but the tubes out to the bearing reservoirs are not laying in oil. By increasing the oil level (3/4 inch I think), there is about a quarter inch deep oil level in the tobes and more oil flows out and back as the truck turns and moves around, so the oil out at the hubs is regularly refreshed and given a larger reservoir of oil with which to lube and cool. There are some disadvantages to a higher oil level at the ring gear side of things due to windage and aeration but they are somewhat negated by the larger cover that is moved aft away from the ring gear (I was told overfilling is more a problem with the stock covers that are close tot he ring gear). Plus, Jerry, the engineer and owner at Mag-Hytec, told me they increased the oil levels carefully to stay below the point where aeration is a problem. That is the science of it as explained by the guy that designed and builds the covers.
 

pickupman

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If you look closely, you will see that at the normal level, the oil doesn't really go up the axle tubes. When you turn and such, oil flows out and back but the tubes out to the bearing reservoirs are not laying in oil. By increasing the oil level (3/4 inch I think), there is about a quarter inch deep oil level in the tobes and more oil flows out and back as the truck turns and moves around, so the oil out at the hubs is regularly refreshed and given a larger reservoir of oil with which to lube and cool. There are some disadvantages to a higher oil level at the ring gear side of things due to windage and aeration but they are somewhat negated by the larger cover that is moved aft away from the ring gear (I was told overfilling is more a problem with the stock covers that are close tot he ring gear). Plus, Jerry, the engineer and owner at Mag-Hytec, told me they increased the oil levels carefully to stay below the point where aeration is a problem. That is the science of it as explained by the guy that designed and builds the covers.

Is this your truck featured in this article? http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0607-1986-ford-f250-hd-towing-axle/
 

cpdenton

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I'm a little late to the party, but here is my experience.

When I added my mag-hytec cover, i wnt ahead and did new scotseal axle seals at the same time. Re-did all my brakes at the same time too.

I filled the rear end with 6 quarts of fluid and so far, all is well. It's to the full mark on the dipstick too. The o-ring seal on the cover makes a really nice leak free/permatex free seal also.

Hope you enjoy it!
 

pickupman

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Hey guys, I need some help here. The old diff cover had this thing mounted to the front of it using 2 bolts on the left side. It doesn't fit with the Mag-hytec cover and I'm wondering what this thing is. In the second photo it shows that it's attached to some kind of lever. I have no idea what this is.

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Mulochico

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Hey guys, I need some help here. The old diff cover had this thing mounted to the front of it using 2 bolts on the left side. It doesn't fit with the Mag-hytec cover and I'm wondering what this thing is. In the second photo it shows that it's attached to some kind of lever. I have no idea what this is.

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It looks like some kind of brake proportioning valve to limit braking with light loads. I had one on my old Jeep Comanche p/u. I haven't seen one on larger trucks. I might be off base :dunno
 

pickupman

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It looks like some kind of brake proportioning valve to limit braking with light loads. I had one on my old Jeep Comanche p/u. I haven't seen one on larger trucks. I might be off base :dunno

After a bit of research, yeah it seems like that's probably what it is. It does complicate things, because I wouldn't want to bypass it, but with the new diff cover, there's no way it will fit to attach it back on.
 

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Put studs in those two holes, tighte a nut down on it with enough stud left to space the bracket out... Might work.
 

pickupman

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Put studs in those two holes, tighte a nut down on it with enough stud left to space the bracket out... Might work.

I had that thought, but I just had to end up putting the old cover back on. The bracket doesn't line up correctly with the mag-hytec cover, so I will have to either grind it down or fabricate a new bracket.
 
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