Looking for a higher volume and pressure lift pump

Can30Diesel

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Hey all,

So because I am spending so much of my time at 2000-2500rpm due to my gearing and I pull/haul so often (and I can't afford a ZF5 swap yet), I am looking to replace my current solenoid type lift pump with the same thing of a higher flow and pressure in hopes of making sure the IP gets whatever fuel it needs.

I am thinking about this one here:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DIESEL-Elect...h=item35c494b41b&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_757wt_1111

and also relocating it to the frame by the tank from the engine bay where it now sits.

What are you guys's thoughts?
 

Wyreth

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realistically your mechanical lift pump is going to flow more than that @ that rpm. Plus you NEVER want more PSI, just the ability to maintain 3-7psi at max fuel demand. Anything more than that and you start artificially advancing your timing and causing wear on the IP.

Also, those #'s are nearly identical to the Faucet Duralift that genlighting sells. There are quite a few members here using that pump and have nothing but good things to say about it.
Of the two, I would take the duralift any day.
 

Can30Diesel

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good point and it is the pressure maintenance I am really looking for.

I'll PM genlightning and see how much his pump is.

Thanks!!
 

Wyreth

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There is also the option of the Holley Red. Altho I hear ALOT of problems using it in a diesel application, but that could be because there are alot of people using them. There is a member currently testing out the Holley blue, I am sorta waiting to hear about that. There are also a couple members running one of the Carter e-pumps (I dun remember the model, but I could prolly find it iffen you're interested) All three are VERY high flow, high psi, pumps for our application, and you would want a bypass regulator to run them safely. However, you wouldn't ever worry about fuel supply.... well assuming they didn't decide to fail on you.

That's the biggest thing recommending the Duralift. They simply do not die.
 

RLDSL

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This has been gone over ad nauseum ,,. but to refresh, you only need more pressure fed into the blamed thing if it's a MODERN HIGH PRESSURE computer controlled diesel. For our old relics, the only thing that the lift pump is there for is to aid in bringing fuel up TO the injection pump when the vehicle is operating in conditions where the injection pump is much higher than the fuel tank ( i.e. climbing hills ) In reality, with a healthy injection pump, you can drive on flat ground indefinitely WITHOUT ANY LIFT PUMP! But the injection pump is already better than a foot above the fuel tank when the truck is level and you add grade to the equation and it starts getting steep quick, so the injection pump just needs a little bit of assistance in having fuel DELIVERED to it ( which is why they call it a fuel delivery pump and not a fuel shove it down the blamed things throat pump :) I have personally got up and forgot to switch my pump on and driven all the way to the city around an hour with NO ELECTRIC PUMP running on more than one occasion and didn't notice till I got to the big hill across the river and it started stumbling.

I was the first one to use a Facet Dura Lift. I went looking for a commercial duty DIESEL rated pump after the HOLLEY blue that was on my truck laid down like a cheap ***** and I called Holley and found they wouldne sell me what I needed to rebuild the POS, ( but for for about the same price as a new one , they would be MORE than happy to LET me send it in to THEM and THEY could rebuild the thing cookoo No thanks Speed shop parts really have no business on something that you need to have reliable. THats when I went hunting for a reliable, commercial grade diesel pump and found the Facet. Initially it was the factory stock lift pump on the carrier transicold refrigeration trailers and since then it has now been adopted by their bompetition and is now also the factory lift pump on the Thermoking refrigerated trailers ( both of which, by the way, used to use Carter pumps in most of their units, but the reliability of the duralift was just to much to ignore) These pumps are designed to run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Speed shop pumps are designed to make 3 or 4 passes on a weekend REALLY fast once in a while, then go back in the trailer till next time where they get towed around by the reliable vehicle.

When I bought the very first one, it was rather amusing, The parts man at the Carrier dealer got lost in the parts room for a half hour trying to find the thing. He finally found it and came back apologizing, and explained, that they had a case or the things, but had NEVER had to replace one! Not bad considering they are at the crossroads of I-40 and I-30 and the center of where most of teh chickens and a good percent of the catfish in the country get shipped out from not to mention a large number of the nations truck companies being based in the area... and not one failure ( and they get a LOT of busted ****** units in that shop every day ) Thats a very good sign

Ive had my pump on since just after I got my truck and thats been about 6 years now and well over 100k miles ( now I have 2 of teh things and run a split system , one for my bed tank and one for my factory rear tank... always good to have a little overkill backup, we like to travel a lot , but so far, it hasnt been an issue,

The built in filter screen in that thing saves a minor fortune in spin on filters. You can visually see when it needs cleaning so there is no guess work, it will ALWAYS clog before the spin on. You just whip it off shoot some carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner through the screen, fill with atf or fuel additive, and fire back up and on your way. First few times you do that instead of having to change a spin of from a bad batch of fuel, the thing has paid for itself

If you start getting into one of those big jumbo high pressure high volume pumps, a bypass regulator is not enough. THe return lines on your truck are only 5/16 and the id of teh steel line is only roughly 1/4" and in no way can it handle the volume, even with a bypass regulator bypassing the injection pump it will still backup in the return lines and and cause a pressure buildup at the injection pump causing timing and pressure problems You would have to remove your fuel selector valve and replace with manual valves and rum much larger return lines all the way to the fuel tanks directly from the bypass regulator to avoid pressure buildup. You are talking about a massive undertaking., and if you dont balance it just right, you risk air intrusions
 

riotwarrior

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Robert is right on this,

The simpler we can make and keep out systems if changing from a stock mechanical lift to electric the less issues you introduce into the systems.

Take it from one who's used to having to thunk through over thought ***** from others who KNEW what they where doing....Like some hi end Mercedes mechanic working on a Ford.....it don't work...

Sorry nothing against a Merc mechanic personally but he created a nightmare of horrors cause he could not dumb down enough.

But I digress....seriously our systems run at a low pressure, and safely if you use some clamps, you can setup some tests by introducing a T at the filter, either PRE of preferred POST filter and then run a pressure guage from that...up out your hood and taped in place so its OUTSIDE your cab and in your line of site, yes....awkward, but safe, and then observe your pressure as you drive. I'm talking about OLD school vacuum/pressure gauges for carbed vehicles.

This though ugly would be an effective method to observe if you even have an issue, prior to making changes. However, the simple change from your solenoid pump to the Carrier is IMHO a good choice and one worth investing in. The simple fact it has a PRE filter easy to deal with...great! Trust me on this I wish I had that!

I PM'd Gen previously and his price for Canada shipped IIRC was around $120 and if you can get across border and bring it back yourself you'll save yourself quite a bit! Just sayin...it's what I'll do!

JM2CW

Al
 

icanfixall

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I second what Robert is saying about these electric pumps and our injection pump. Also see any semi trailer with the refer box up top of the front of the trailer. Then look way back under the trailer where the spare tire is usually. Thats where the diesel fuel tank is for that refer unit engine. That electric pump they use will suck a bowling ball thru a garden hose and not loose breath doing it. It has to pull all that length anf uphill all the way... I ren a holley red for many years till is failed. I had over 125,000 miles on it when it let go in town here. I installed my spare when I got home just barely. When I opened up the pump I found the brushes ate into the rotor so bad it was ruined. No way to machine it smooth. Parts were too expensive so I installed the Carrier pump. Never looked back either. I actually got the higher pressure pump and see 7 or 8 lbs no matter what rpm is on the engine. The holley... Well I would see 3 lbs reving it up in the driveway under no load.. So what was I seeing hauling a load up a 6% grade...:dunno
 

idiabuse

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Volume sucker

I second what Robert is saying about these electric pumps and our injection pump. Also see any semi trailer with the refer box up top of the front of the trailer. Then look way back under the trailer where the spare tire is usually. Thats where the diesel fuel tank is for that refer unit engine. That electric pump they use will suck a bowling ball thru a garden hose and not loose breath doing it. It has to pull all that length anf uphill all the way... I ren a holley red for many years till is failed. I had over 125,000 miles on it when it let go in town here. I installed my spare when I got home just barely. When I opened up the pump I found the brushes ate into the rotor so bad it was ruined. No way to machine it smooth. Parts were too expensive so I installed the Carrier pump. Never looked back either. I actually got the higher pressure pump and see 7 or 8 lbs no matter what rpm is on the engine. The holley... Well I would see 3 lbs reving it up in the driveway under no load.. So what was I seeing hauling a load up a 6% grade...:dunno

since about 2004 I have had a psi gauge mounted on the cowl vent to monitor pressure.
I have noticed during that time the 7.3 IDI will drain down a modified fuel system.
Anytime a good load is present the psi will stay steady and the truck responds or
the pressure drops below 3psi and the truck still runs.
Like mentioned earlier the injection pump will draw fuel from the tanks on its own.
So it is easy to say any mod works.
What Im trying to say you may think it is all good but if you dont monitor your pressure you
really dont know what is going on.

What happens to the engine if you are wide open or hauling 15,000 pounls and you only have 1 psi?


I can say after much modification to push WMO to my IP I now have steady pressure/Volume
delivery and the truck responds better than ever.
As if I have gained 50ftlbs at all rpm.
6 psi seems to be a real good pressure for the IDI.

The OEM fuel delivery system is 100% JUNK and I have none of it on my truck...


Javier
 

Can30Diesel

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Well I'm really just looking to make sure the electric pump can keep up with the needs of the ip at higher rpms, I wasn't intending to shove fuel into the ip.

That being said it looks like my first step is to see what I am at before I go and make any changes.

If I do need to look into another pump it looks like that dura lift pump is the way to go if only for the lifespan and reliability they have.
 
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