looking at wmo centrifuges

blaz4wd

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If I do not heat the oil I add kerosene or diesel to thin it befor I centrifuge it. The centrifuge seems to run a bit better when its thinner. But if I heat it I add the diesel after.

I run my centrifuge for about 6 hours.
How many gal of oil is that for it to run for 6 hrs ?
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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The oil exits the bottom of the fuge yes... but you are going to want to be able to feed the fuge from the clean drum as well... so once the filtered drum is empty, the 'fuged drum can make multiple passes. If you look at the pics in my thread, you'll notice that I feed my pump from 2 drums... both controlled by valves. I run the filtered drum empty first with the clean drum valve closed. Once the filtered drum is empty, I shut that valve... and open the fuge drum valve and let it go. The pressure control ball valve I have dumping into the top of my fuge drum as its going to get hours of process time anyways... so what does bypass, will make its way through the fuge at some point no matter what.

On another note, I don't blend with d2... you want to get the viscosity of the oil closely match d2... so using d2 to thin it out doesn't work very well. I would suggest using unleaded gas or kero... gas is cheaper and does a better job IMO.

The typical blend is 80% oil to 20% thinner (gas, kero, etc..)... making W80.. then if you don't want to run W80 straight.. you can mix it 50/50 or what ever with d2 (pump diesel).

My friends 93 idi drinks w80 straight year round... he does start and shutdown on d2 however as starting when its cold out is hard to do on oil in his truck anyways.
 

Josh Carmack

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Blaz
Thats right except I have two drums. I mix and heat in the first drum, an open top, and then return back to the "Dirty" Drum the fuges are mounted on top of the "clean" drum. Once heated I run through the fuges into the clean drum, and once the dirty drum is empty I swap the return and suction and heat over to the clean drum and heat and run for 6 to 8 more hours. If you can swing the adjustable bypass relief valve it beats the manual way ten times over. You can set the pressure, and walk away, no worries.
 

Josh Carmack

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I learned to mix before, the amount of trash that came out of oil I thought was clean but unmixed was amazing.
 

blaz4wd

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On another note, I don't blend with d2... you want to get the viscosity of the oil closely match d2... so using d2 to thin it out doesn't work very well. I would suggest using unleaded gas or kero... gas is cheaper and does a better job IMO.

The typical blend is 80% oil to 20% thinner (gas, kero, etc..)... making W80.. then if you don't want to run W80 straight.. you can mix it 50/50 or what ever with d2 (pump diesel).

My friends 93 idi drinks w80 straight year round... he does start and shutdown on d2 however as starting when its cold out is hard to do on oil in his truck anyways.
hmmmm could this be why my glow plugs don't last? So in my case of filtering 15 gals of oil I should be thinning it down with 3 gal of gas??? Then mix it all in with my diesel.. if this is the case I should of research this better I was thinking 50/50 was the way I have been doing ..... so when you filter your clean oil tank were do you run the return line ? Just back onto the clean tank?
 

Josh Carmack

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Blaz, yes thats what i do when fuging, not filtering. I pre filter at 25 microns before it goes into the mixing drum. Fuge and then post filter at 10 microns. Since I added the second fuge which increased my GPH processed I have not had to change a post filter. In the summer I run straight oil, well about 98 percent. Right now I am running straight diesel. My engine is over 400,000 and is worn out, it's hard, very hard to start on diesel in 30 and below temps. Without a block heater it wont dream of cranking below 25 to 30 'm going to pick up a Mercedes in the next few days, and I'm gonna make it drink oil. I also plan on purchasing an old diesel generator to run on oil and offset my cooling bill.
 

Josh Carmack

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Blaz, ALSO about the glow plugs, if they are going into an international 7.3, BUY OEM TRUST ME. Those Beru ZD9's are worth every penny extra. The champions, Bosch, auto lite etc (insert brand of choice) ARE JUNK!!!!

ZD9's will last years over any other brand in a 7.3
 

blaz4wd

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Blaz, ALSO about the glow plugs, if they are going into an international 7.3, BUY OEM TRUST ME. Those Beru ZD9's are worth every penny extra. The champions, Bosch, auto lite etc (insert brand of choice) ARE JUNK!!!!

ZD9's will last years over any other brand in a 7.3
I have been running them for a few years now. But every year they burn out. I pull them out and there black and sooty looking.also long story short I didn't have the prob till after I put in the pump and new injectors from Pensacola diesel. So tax money is going for new injectors/return kit this year..but the good news I almost got the wife to let me ditch the filters and get a centrifuge. :)
 
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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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My return/pressure relief line goes into the top of the clean drum yes.

As for your mix... if you want 15 gallons of W80... that would be 3 gallons of thinner (gas, kero, etc..) to 12 gallons of oil.

I always batch 25 gallons at a time and make 2 batches before I start to centrifuge. I mix 20 gallons of oil to 5 gallons of gas... settle for a week and filter it down to 2 micron absolute into a "filtered" drum... I make 2 batches totaling 50 gallons. After I have 50 gallons in the "filtered" drum, I start to centrifuge... typically 15-20hrs total on the fuge.

I personally decided to keep the filters as it keeps all the heavy crap from quickly filling the centrifuge which means it can be ran for hours on end without cleaning... in my setup, I kick it on and forget it... go out and clean it out every few hours.

Don't cheap out on plumbing as a failure on the pressure side of the fuge will make one hell of a mess.
 

The FNG

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My return/pressure relief line goes into the top of the clean drum yes.

As for your mix... if you want 15 gallons of W80... that would be 3 gallons of thinner (gas, kero, etc..) to 12 gallons of oil.

I always batch 25 gallons at a time and make 2 batches before I start to centrifuge. I mix 20 gallons of oil to 5 gallons of gas... settle for a week and filter it down to 2 micron absolute into a "filtered" drum... I make 2 batches totaling 50 gallons. After I have 50 gallons in the "filtered" drum, I start to centrifuge... typically 15-20hrs total on the fuge.

I personally decided to keep the filters as it keeps all the heavy crap from quickly filling the centrifuge which means it can be ran for hours on end without cleaning... in my setup, I kick it on and forget it... go out and clean it out every few hours.

Don't cheap out on plumbing as a failure on the pressure side of the fuge will make one hell of a mess.

Sounds like the exact process I use. I may have copied you, I'm not sure. I looked at so many friggin set ups it can't remember where I got all my ideas from.
 

blaz4wd

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Ok I'm going to be ordering the centrifuge soon. But I'm running it with a chevy power steering pump..any 1 have pics of this. Do you keep the tank on it?
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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U need to get one of the remote reservoir backs for the GM pump to work. I used one off a little ford 4cyl I had in the garage.

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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Depends on the motor u get and what not... I'm running a 1/6hp motor and running close to a 2:1 ratio as far as pulleys go IIRC..

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blaz4wd

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Update...... got my power steering pump off a Hyundai with the hoses. So on the pressure side what type of hose are you guys running?
 
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