Looking at buying a 92 7.3 IDI how well will it tow?

[DrCharles]

Then why build a turbo/injection system that can make that much more power, and not use it?

Or worse yet, build it so that it COULD blow your pistons into the oil pan, or heads through the hood, and just "make sure not to step too ******* the pedal". We all know how THAT ends up.

 

[Cubey]

Then why build a turbo/injection system that can make that much more power, and not use it?

Or worse yet, build it so that it COULD blow your pistons into the oil pan, or heads through the hood, and just "make sure not to step too ******* the pedal". We all know how THAT ends up.

Yeah. I’d probably just be better off buying an IDIT or PSD and selling this NA. Hopefully this truck is going to last me at least several years. I put under 10k a year so who knows though. If the engine ever goes, I’m screwed based on replacement cost. It’s cheaper to buy another whole truck. It eats a lot of oil but isn’t a tea pot. Not sure what the deal is there.

 

[Macrobb]

First off, an IDIT isn't any stronger where it matters - the head bolts. That's the weak point.
Otherwise, Justin @ R&D pushed a N/A IDI long block(witu studs) up to 450rwhp(and 45 psi of boost) before the connecting rods bent and broke. That's one heck of a lot more than any 'stock' ip or turbo could ever put out.

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Worst case(assuming it's not leaks), it's probably just worn rings. Had an '88 block use a quart every 50-100 miles; it had .020" of bore taper. Still fired right up, no smoke(because it burned it all cleanly).
Rebuilding it... made a decent difference in power below about 1800rpm. Once the turbo kicked in, there wasn't any meaningful difference in power at all.
(Oh, and when it was rebuilt, the rebuilder didn't check valve recession in both heads; one was in spec and fine; the other was .010" small and made nice valve-shaped impressions in the pistons, which I learned about a year and 10k miles later, when one of the guides completely gave out and was chuffing)

 

[Muleman]

I dont think you will be happy unless it has a turbo.

 

[Keith Krawczyk]

I ended up buying a truck yesterday. The price was to good to pass up. $3400 for a 2000 F350 dually 4 door 7.3 turbo with the ZF 6 speed. Third is starting to go so he threw in a spare transmission with it. it has a service body but he had a truck that was heading to the scrap yard with a flatbed that he is removing and giving to me as well I just have to install it and ill have a service body to sell a recoup some money. the interior was redone about a year ago. The truck has 425,000 miles on it but has had a new engine installed at some point, he is looking into exactly when it was done. It was a fleet vehicle but the the fleet manager who showed me the truck said they they take good care of them if something brakes its fixed properly and from looking at the truck and driving it was believable everything was as it should be and showed no signs of abuse. So i hope the truck will end up being a good purchase.

 

[79jasper]

That's a pretty good deal actually.

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[Cubey]

Worst case(assuming it's not leaks), it's probably just worn rings. Had an '88 block use a quart every 50-100 miles; it had .020" of bore taper. Still fired right up, no smoke(because it burned it all cleanly).
Rebuilding it... made a decent difference in power below about 1800rpm.

Ahh. So it doesn’t always smoke out of the oil filler? I guess I’ll feed it a full bottle of Lucas on the next oil change. I fed it a partial between changes which may or may not have slowed it for a while. It did immediately make it quieter once it fed through the engine. Technically it could have two
1qt bottles according to the instructions (20% of oil capacity) but that seems a little excessive. I don’t want to try anything like Engine Restore with extra crap in it that claims to fix cylinder wallls. A thickening agent like Lucas is all I will add.

 

[Macrobb]

Ahh. So it doesn’t always smoke out of the oil filler? I guess I’ll feed it a full bottle of Lucas on the next oil change. I fed it a partial between changes which may or may not have slowed it for a while. It did immediately make it quieter once it fed through the engine. Technically it could have two
1qt bottles according to the instructions (20% of oil capacity) but that seems a little excessive. I don’t want to try anything like Engine Restore with extra crap in it that claims to fix cylinder wallls. A thickening agent like Lucas is all I will add.

As long as the CDR is working right(aka installed and open), the engine will suck all that blowby into the intake and burn it. So... no 'smoke' in the sense of none out the tailpipe or outside the engine.

 

[no mufflers]

i bought a dodge ram from a trucking company that just had a "full service". i didn't bother to check the diff oil because it should have oil and i took their word for the service.

well this is what happens to a dana 80 with NO oil.

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yes i know, i should have checked the oil. i learnt that one.

my point is, just do a very thorough inspection on a fleet truck.

 

[Keith Krawczyk]

i bought a dodge ram from a trucking company that just had a "full service". i didn't bother to check the diff oil because it should have oil and i took their word for the service.

well this is what happens to a dana 80 with NO oil.

You must be registered for see images attach

yes i know, i should have checked the oil. i learnt that one.

my point is, just do a very thorough inspection on a fleet truck.

I looked over the truck thoroughly. the place I bought it from actually has a full fab shop as they build custom trucks for guardrail installation. the fleet manager took me through there whole operation since I was there after hours and the shop was shut down also was talking to him about buying other equipment and trailers they have that they are phasing out. this is the last of the 7.3's they have so he is giving me all the parts he has on the shelf for them just to clean up his shop. The guy was genuine and told me of the normal issues he has seen with them and what normally is worn out on them. The alternator is weak so he is actually throwing in a new one for me. he we just as honest as he could be about what i was buying from him and for the price i knew there would be a little work I would have to due to it but with that being said I still plan on doing a full fluids change and inspection on all running gear. (axles, brakes u-joints, steering, suspension, ETC.) on the truck when I bring it home this weekend.

 

[Thewespaul]

Sounds like you made a good buy!

 

[towcat]

the fleet truck with 7.3 and ZF6 for that price is a "Ray Charles" deal in my book. Just put down the cash and take it home with you once the trans is in.


As far as a IDI running NA and adding a turbo, I'd do it in a hot second as long as I'm also doing an IC. the towing difference is night and day and really needs no debate. I've towed for 20 years NA, and really could care less about being slow, but running turbo and IC makes the trip a whole lot less stressful.

 

[Cubey]

I think a new steering gearbox is what I need to make things less stressful. I replaced a loose and leaking one with a junkyard loose but not leaking one last year. I adjusted it which helped a little bit for a while but it has awful slack again now. Even not towing, I’m all over the place. Is tight steering too much to ask for? Rebuilt units have slack I’ve read but I doubt they can be as bad as this.

 

[morgankshaw]

N/A performance is... OK. Totally possible to haul 8k, but not fast up hills. Add a turbo and crank the fuel to match, and you'll pull that 8k trailer 65 up a 6% grade.

This is not my experience. My 8k trailer made my truck a dog. 7.3 ate turbo non wastegate 5 speed. 35” tires with 4.88 gears. I could do maybe 40 on the grades.
Unless something is wrong with my truck but I seriously doubt it....


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[FordIDIot]

i heard alot of mixed reviews on redhead boxes. id just find a local shop who knows what theyre doing so you dont have to deal with redhead customer service saying youre the reason its not working right

I think a new steering gearbox is what I need to make things less stressful. I replaced a loose and leaking one with a junkyard loose but not leaking one last year. I adjusted it which helped a little bit for a while but it has awful slack again now. Even not towing, I’m all over the place. Is tight steering too much to ask for? Rebuilt units have slack I’ve read but I doubt they can be as bad as this.