Looking at buying a 92 7.3 IDI how well will it tow?

[Macrobb]

If you want to try the junkyard again, get one from a small ranger pickup. They use the same steering boxes as the larger trucks, and as you can imagine, live a cushy life guiding the smaller truck around.

Good info!
Do you know what years match up?

 

[Cubey]

If you want to try the junkyard again, get one from a small ranger pickup. They use the same steering boxes as the larger trucks, and as you can imagine, live a cushy life guiding the smaller truck around.

That’s what I got this from, a Ranger.

 

[Cubey]

Good info!
Do you know what years match up?

Go on oreillys site for any given part and it will show all cars that use the same part down below. That’s how i figured out what was compatible. The pitman arm had be swapped though.

 

[FordIDIot]

its a little laggy but nothing shoving your foot down more wont cure.

if you have a manual id almost recommend wastegated. for auto the non-wg is not so much of an issue.

I agree. Still wondering if upgrading to a wastegated turbo for more low end boost and performance injectors and pump are worth it.


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[morgankshaw]

Crank it up, then watch your EGTs. Yes, you have to be really careful with the throttle at the low end, because you don't have any boost to offset the extra fuel.
You can install a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter, which, despite the name, is actually a boost-referenced-fuel-limiter, effectively limiting your fuel at idle to NA levels(when floored), while letting you get full fuel when you get the boost to use it. It's actually a really nice tool, especially when going to over-sized IPs(and yes, it's adjustable).
I have one on my RD2-110/factory turbo truck(250rwhp/320-ish crank), but not my current Banks/stock IP(200+rwhp/260+crank) truck. With the RD2-110 stock, flooring it at idle while letting the clutch out slightly too far can nearly kill it due to massively overfueling at low RPM.


Also, have you adjusted the timing any time in the last while? The IP tends to get retarded over time as things wear.
I personally just play with the timing, adjust it until it feels good - See what feels strongest. That's going to be the best setting for fuel economy and power.
If you see gray/white/blue smoke on acceleration, you are retarded. Black smoke is good or advanced timing.

Edit:
One more thing to check: Drive and Boost leaks.
Check for any obvious places that Drive(pre-turbo exhaust) pressure is leaking(there will be soot) and places where you might be losing boost(If it's got the CDR on it, you'll see oily residue anywhere boost is leaking).

Yes I believe I don’t have any boost leaks. I had IDIoit time my truck over the summer with a tach and time. Maybe I’ll play with the fuel screw a little more. [emoji6]




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