us both being in northern cali i can say a NA motor falls on its face looking at any grade. even keeping the revs up only does so much. slowly downshifting till your in 3rd holding 3200rpm watching the guages and right mirror
Looking at buying a 92 7.3 IDI how well will it tow?
- Thread starter Keith Krawczyk
- Start date
RockAuto has Lares boxes for like $80 or something like that. I swore off of cardone remans after trying 3 of them in my Chevy with no improvement. I got the Lares box for my 91. No issues related to the box. Can't expect the box to tighten up the column though lol!
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
I agree. Still wondering if upgrading to a wastegated turbo for more low end boost and performance injectors and pump are worth it.
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Yeah I have a column bearing that’s bad but it’s one deep inside, not that close one. I don’t think that’s the problem any though. It rocks up and down, not side to side.
My whole front end is new last year (all moog problem solver) so I know it’s not tie rods or ball joints.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
It seems moog has gone downhill. So I wouldn't rule that out as a blanket statement of being new.
Check the rag joint.
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Check the rag joint.
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Macrobb
Full Access Member
Did you crank the fuel way up? If you are running stock fuel, you'll only get stock performance out of it - the maximum fuel available is what's burnable by a NA engine.
And yes, I believe that that would be a total dog... just like N/A.
Believe me, though... my trucks are /not/ dogs. I'll have to take an acceleration video next time I'm hauling another F-250 around, because I'll maintain 55+ going up a 6% grade in 4th, with 4.10 gearing.
That being said, though, I have no clue about non-wastegated performance. I only have factory turbos(with wastegate unplugged) and Banks Sidewinders(wastegate unplugged)... and I never leave them 'de-tuned'.
Problem solver is still about the best I think. I did the rag joint before I did anything else.
I can tell it’s the gearbox. I can move the steering shaft in the engine compartment and feel the slack before the pitman arm reacts.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Have you tried tightening up the gear box using the screw on top? Basically, jack the front wheels off the ground and with the engine off, slowly tighten down the adjustment screw(with the lock nut loose) until you start feeling some resistance when trying to turn the wheels, then back it off 1/4 turn or so. Basically just take up the free-play.
This might not be perfect, but if the alternative is replacing the gear box anyway... what do you have to lose?
I have noticed the same but I still have yet to have a bad Moog part out of the box. I have had them last only a year though. it's hard finding good parts anymore...
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
I agree I was told at my local Napa that moog parts are Chinese. When I rebuilt my front axle I did not use them.
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morgankshaw
Full Access Member
It’s turned up some. Used to not smoke at all but does now when I stomp it. Egt’s ony an issue towing. Although never went over 1100 or so. Ive never driven another Idi with turbo so nothing to compare it to! Haha. Maybe I should just crank the fuel and say screw it. Haha.
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Macrobb
Full Access Member
Crank it up, then watch your EGTs. Yes, you have to be really careful with the throttle at the low end, because you don't have any boost to offset the extra fuel.
You can install a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter, which, despite the name, is actually a boost-referenced-fuel-limiter, effectively limiting your fuel at idle to NA levels(when floored), while letting you get full fuel when you get the boost to use it. It's actually a really nice tool, especially when going to over-sized IPs(and yes, it's adjustable).
I have one on my RD2-110/factory turbo truck(250rwhp/320-ish crank), but not my current Banks/stock IP(200+rwhp/260+crank) truck. With the RD2-110 stock, flooring it at idle while letting the clutch out slightly too far can nearly kill it due to massively overfueling at low RPM.
Also, have you adjusted the timing any time in the last while? The IP tends to get retarded over time as things wear.
I personally just play with the timing, adjust it until it feels good - See what feels strongest. That's going to be the best setting for fuel economy and power.
If you see gray/white/blue smoke on acceleration, you are retarded. Black smoke is good or advanced timing.
Edit:
One more thing to check: Drive and Boost leaks.
Check for any obvious places that Drive(pre-turbo exhaust) pressure is leaking(there will be soot) and places where you might be losing boost(If it's got the CDR on it, you'll see oily residue anywhere boost is leaking).
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Generally speaking, Chinese doesn’t always mean poor quality anymore. The materials, methods and quality control is what matters. Same would apply if made in USA.
I was lazy last year and only adjusted with the wheels on the ground. Guess I’ll try with them up on jack stands one day and see.
If you want to try the junkyard again, get one from a small ranger pickup. They use the same steering boxes as the larger trucks, and as you can imagine, live a cushy life guiding the smaller truck around.
