Averysm09
Registered User
I'm sure that they won't. That would be far too convenient...
Looking at a N"used" F250 IDI
- Thread starter Averysm09
- Start date
I'm sure that they won't. That would be far too convenient...
Averysm09
Registered User
UPDATE:
DONE:
-Changed the oil, put the 1995 oil filter on so now have 11 fresh quarts of Rotella T conventional
-Installed the new door latch (think it was for a xl though, no place to plug in the window lock button cable)
-Reinstalled door panel, with new handle
-Installed new XLT dash strip along with nused red dash pad
-Installed new oem tailights (PO painted them black)
NEDD TO DO:
-Have new drag link set-up to instal
-Bought a $50 radio with adapters just need to install
-Coolant looks BRIGHT green so I haven't changed that, still debating on whether I should
-Have a new Motorcraft Thermostat and gasket to install (looks like a PITA based on videos)
-Have a new Motorcraft Fuel Filter to install along with Diesel Kleen supplement
ISSUES:
-Oil leaks from more than just valve covers. Looks to be all over (RMS, oil pan gasket, valve covers at least)
-I bought a nused windshield wiper relay but could not find where to install it....anywhere. Thinking of just trying to find a re-manned motor)
-Transmission still acts a fool (not staying in OD on highway unless the throttle is being hammered)
-About the trans, do these trucks have selenoids for the trans? Thottle Position Sensors maybe? I'm trying to figure out what could be causing this but I don't even know where to begin. I was thinking it was the gears at first, but I can't see any gears keeping a truck at 2k+ RPMs at 65-70 mpg with 36" tires.
DONE:
-Changed the oil, put the 1995 oil filter on so now have 11 fresh quarts of Rotella T conventional
-Installed the new door latch (think it was for a xl though, no place to plug in the window lock button cable)
-Reinstalled door panel, with new handle
-Installed new XLT dash strip along with nused red dash pad
-Installed new oem tailights (PO painted them black)
NEDD TO DO:
-Have new drag link set-up to instal
-Bought a $50 radio with adapters just need to install
-Coolant looks BRIGHT green so I haven't changed that, still debating on whether I should
-Have a new Motorcraft Thermostat and gasket to install (looks like a PITA based on videos)
-Have a new Motorcraft Fuel Filter to install along with Diesel Kleen supplement
ISSUES:
-Oil leaks from more than just valve covers. Looks to be all over (RMS, oil pan gasket, valve covers at least)
-I bought a nused windshield wiper relay but could not find where to install it....anywhere. Thinking of just trying to find a re-manned motor)
-Transmission still acts a fool (not staying in OD on highway unless the throttle is being hammered)
-About the trans, do these trucks have selenoids for the trans? Thottle Position Sensors maybe? I'm trying to figure out what could be causing this but I don't even know where to begin. I was thinking it was the gears at first, but I can't see any gears keeping a truck at 2k+ RPMs at 65-70 mpg with 36" tires.
Waystro
No Class
Look up the tech articles lots of info on the Trans.
Nice looking truck. I feel you overpaid considering the mileage and problems.
Nice looking truck. I feel you overpaid considering the mileage and problems.
Clean the engine rally good, then you will be able to locate the oil leaks easier.
I would absolutely do the thermostat and flush and fill the radiator with new fleetcharge antifreeze. The sca levels are very important, and fleetcharge has the right level from the start.
Read this about the FIPL. This is your fuel injection pump lever sensor. Read, throttle position sensor.
Sounds like it needs a look, and it's not too hard.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?4134-Whats-a-FIPL
I would absolutely do the thermostat and flush and fill the radiator with new fleetcharge antifreeze. The sca levels are very important, and fleetcharge has the right level from the start.
Read this about the FIPL. This is your fuel injection pump lever sensor. Read, throttle position sensor.
Sounds like it needs a look, and it's not too hard.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?4134-Whats-a-FIPL
Remember waystro, trucks in Texas and tucks in the rust belt will value out totally different. If it's not rusted away to nothing in VA, it will sell for much more than the same truck in Texas......
Averysm09
Registered User
Yeah I may have. Diesel trucks up around this area are like gold. They don't seem to ever lose value, and to find one below $4k, it probably doesn't have any metal left on it. I knew I wasn't going to get a perfect one, I kind of wanted a project diesel, and this was the cheapest one I've seen in years. I drove it (albeit carefully) over 100 miles home so that's a good enough foundation for me. I saw on a different forum (forgive me, for I have sinned) that a fella with a '93 na 7.3 had a similar issue and a speed sensor solved it so I'm going to go for that first. $30 effort, can't be too bad.....(famous last words).
Thanks for the input Waystro
Thanks for the input Waystro
Averysm09
Registered User
I did end up getting Fleetcharge, which seems to be the consensus around these parts. Just need to find a place to put all of the old coolant
. NEED MORE BUCKETSI will look into the suggestions you mentioned above asa; thanks for the help cpdenton!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I have a question. Why do you only have 11 quarts of oil in it with a larger oil filter? With the regular size of oil filter, these usually take 14 quarts of oil. Although I have seen three oil pans that mysteriously only hold 12 quarts. At the shop I used to work at, we had one on a shelf that said "12 qts", I installed an engine that only held 12 quarts, and the 7.3 in my 1985 f250 only holds 12. These weren't damaged and look like the others from the outside except that they hold two less quarts of oil.
11 W lg filter is the norm.
Perhapz you witnessed a mix and match of dipsticks and tubes or tobe was not fully seated in block????
Were you checking it when the oil was warm? It needs to be brought up to temp, then allows to sit for a while to accurately check. That much oil will expand when warm, and raise the level.
I am also suspicious of the dipstick not being seated properly in yours. There are countless places that state 10 quarts.
Now, the DI power stroke had an increased capacity of 12 to 15 quarts depending on year.....
I am also suspicious of the dipstick not being seated properly in yours. There are countless places that state 10 quarts.
Now, the DI power stroke had an increased capacity of 12 to 15 quarts depending on year.....
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I guess I'll have to check next time I change oil.
Averysm09
Registered User
Whew, I was worried there for a second. I tried to check a few places to see what the capacity was. 10 qts stock, and 11 qts if you use the FL-1995 oil filter that was designed for the Powerstrokes of a couple years later. As much as my truck leaks, it may end up being like 15qts before the next change ;-)
