Lol please help

IDIBRONCO

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I think that I'd remove and clean the screen before trying to start the engine again. I'd be afraid that some of that stuff will fall down into the intake while the engine is running.
 

FrozenMerc

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That thing looks like a prime candidate for a complete teardown and rebuild. I bet if you keep working from the top down, given the rust, moisture, sludge and other issues showing in the photos you end up at a complete rebuild anyways. Pull the band-aid off and get on with it.
 

chickenpot

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rust is from never getting the engine up to temp to burn the moisture out of the oil/never changing the oil. when you say "fuel pressure is perfect" are you talking about out of the filter head? cause you never specified if you actually have fuel at your injectors. even with a dogs fart of compression, decent crank speed, good fuel (actually squirting out of the injectors..) and a whiff of ether you would definitely have it running by now
 

onetonjohn

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Not trying to be an ass, but maybe slow down a bit and listen... Most of these guys know what their talking about. Read though some threads and find out who's what...
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Have you verified that you have 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP? Can you hear it click?

I know you said it had compression, but are you sure all 8 cylinders have enough compression to fire? I would test it before I go any further.

Good luck!
 

divemaster5734

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Have you verified that you have 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP? Can you hear it click?

I know you said it had compression, but are you sure all 8 cylinders have enough compression to fire? I would test it before I go any further.

Good luck!
That's a really good point.
Couldn't get my '89 running after a new 7.3 and zf5 swap for e4od.
Turned out the red/green wire from the GP relay was open before it got to the IP shut off solenoid.
Which reminds me, I still have a hot wire jumped from the GP to the IP, haven't torn up the harness yet.
damn.
 

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