Is it not listed on fuse panel under left side of dazh above park brake pedal...remove the panel under column and fuses should be there and listed on panel.
Could unplug it....but I doubt the issue is rabs myself.
Thank you. The panel is missing from mine, so I had no idea which fuse was for what purpose.
The issue may not actually BE the RABS. But after everything else that has been done, I am getting to the point where I have to track every possibility.
I bought this truck, to WORK. And I can't trust it to do any real work, if I can't trust the brakes.
Your story similar to mine, after I bought mine many moons ago I had to immediately dump a ton of money into the brakes!
YMMV but that very first time it involved having a new rabs valve....just couldn't seem to get a good pedal without a new one. Fast forward 10 years and I had the brakes worked on again and had to replace the valve again to get the firm pedal. I say replace it and you'll be good to go for another 5-10 years. Just my experience with it....
Thank you.
Well, I'll probably end up either replacing it, or just bypassing it. I grew up with cars and trucks long before ABS. And I have had ABS almost kill me in situations where I could have handled the situation a lot better with my own foot. I do not like ABS.
By the way, any advice on anything else I should be checking out on this truck? Possible hidden problems that could cost me a lot if allowed to go on, for instance?
WElcome to the forum. Most likely your rear brake shoes are out of proper ajustment. Best way to tel is see where the parking brake sets when aplied. It the lever is more than 1/2 way to the floor then you rear brakes need a manual adjustment. Sadly our rear brakes self adjusters never really worked. Most here have felt the soft brake peddle or the creeping into the cross walk after a complete stop. When the brake peddle creeps down after a stop its because the master cylinder is still trying to fill the rear brake cylinders. So the peddle drops and the truck creeps forwards like a bad master cylinder. For many years my front brakes would wear out fast and the rotors would crack. Turns out my rear brakes did almost no stopping and the fronts were over worked causing lots of heat build up. Thats what cracked the rotors. So I started manually adjusting the rear brakes and no more problems.
Thank you!
That sounds exactly like what it happening. And I wondered about the adjustment on those.
Welcome to the OB.
Spending $600 on brakes, you must have replaced all the shoes/calipers/pads/rotors. Proper brake bleeding, including the RABS valve will relieve the soft pedal. RR then RL then RABS then RF then LF. On the RABS, remove the large plug, remove the spring but leave the piston in, replace plug, cycle the brakes 3-4 times, then replace spring. If the ABS lite is ON, that should turn it off. Make sure you keep the MC full of fluid. Do not mix DOT 3 with DOT 4 synthetic fluid, or completely replace all the fluid with DOT 4. As said above, be sure the rears are adjusted up, readjust after 50-100 miles.
Below is your fuse panel.
And thank you!
I needed that panel information. Now to print it out and keep it in the truck.
I'm glad I came in here and asked. I'd been reading here for about a week and a half, since I bought the truck. Decided it was time to dive in! Now I have a lot more information than I even asked for! Thank you all.
The story...
Bought the truck two weeks ago. Listened to the guy tell all about all the things he had recently done to it. Saw evidence that indeed he had. So, I bought it.
Who knew he did all that, but probably did it himself, and did everything "half-fast". All new brake parts. Shoes, pads, hardware, etc. New seals.
But... I believe the rears were adjusted WAY loose. (I watched the mechanic adjust them way way out, and I don't think they ever actually got it to the right place yet.
Plus, the guy damaged the back seal on the passenger rear, so when the drum was pulled off, everything in there was soaked and 'floating' in gear lube from the axle.
The money I have spent has been... The mechanic insisted the problem was the master cylinder leaking internally. So they replaced that. Then did a bleed. (BTW: NO bleed on the RABS. Ever. They are apparently completely unaware of it's existence. As was I, until yesterday.
) No difference... Then I got them to start tearing into the 'new' rears, and on the one side, we found the leaking seal. They never pulled the other side apart. Because by the time they replaced that seal and cleaned everything up then put it all back together, I was already nearly 500 dollars into them, and there was still very little difference at the brake pedal. I couldn't see paying them more to just keep playing a guessing game.
I am way out of budget on this. (Nearly 600 on just the brake problem.) Never expected to spend this much. So now I am going to have to fix this myself. I can do the work. I made a living as a mechanic for many years. I just HATE brake work, so I got stupid and let people who know even less than I do, empty my wallet.
My approach to wrenching is... I want to know more than just what part is broken. I want to know why that part broke. I want to know what part it plays. I want to know if there is some way that I can improve the part, and/or the overall system, so this doesn't happen again. IOW: I don't like just throwing parts at a problem. I want to know not just the whats, (parts), but the hows and whys of a problem.
To get to the hows and whys, you have to first know the whats, and then you have to ask questions.
So, here I am, asking questions. You have given me answers that actually mean something, and which help me to start to figure out the heart of the problem. Thank you.
And I'll be back. With a lot of probably really stupid questions.
