swampdigger
Full Access Member
One of my injector lines leaks where it attaches to the injector top. Torquing it down like a SOB didn't help. What about teflon tape or something?
Leaky Injector Line Fixes?
- Thread starter swampdigger
- Start date
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
Pretty good chance that it's not the injector lines but the O-rings in the return line caps.
Mine did that last summer during my return trip from Texas and it looked exactly like a loose injector line.
Mine did that last summer during my return trip from Texas and it looked exactly like a loose injector line.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Well if it's leaking from the injector or the hard line...that's hard luck..as far as I know you need to buy a new injector line, as I have no knowledge of any "fix" that will hold that kind of pressure. If its the return lines (more common) then you just need to replace the orings and caps/lines. Its a little tedious but not hard. If you need to get by for a few more days/weeks, maybe you can gently but firmly press down the cap on both sides and often it will improve the leak. But the kit only costs from $28-45 US. Its best to go ahead and replace them all together if you have leaks.
swampdigger
Full Access Member
Sucky...
It's coming out right from the top of the hard line between the line and the nut. It's not missing though!
Can anyone describe how hard they tighten the nuts?
It's coming out right from the top of the hard line between the line and the nut. It's not missing though!
Can anyone describe how hard they tighten the nuts?
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Well...since I just did this today...the way I do it is to push the fitting into the top of the injector and thread the nut on as tight as I can get it by hand. Then I take my 5/8" box wrench and if and only if it threads on smoothly, then torque it down till you can't turn it easily. No need to torque it to death...22 ft-lbs is the Haynes manual torque spec...but I have never used it and really don't know how one would apply a torque wrench to the lines. The other possibility is that the injector threads themselves are stripped...that can cause the kind of leak you are describing. Really, those hard injector lines really don't break unless they rust through or the clamps are busted or missing.
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
1000% can't add anything else to that other than 99.9% of the cracked lines I've seen in truck shops I've worked in were because of loose or missing clamps often due to somebody being too lazy to put them on after doing some work figuring they were not important and didn't do anything.
You'ld have to use a crows foot to use a torque wrench on them. Big PITA and I don't do it either.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Yep...I know about the clamps because that;s what happened to me. I got away with it for about 8 months, despite everyone's warnings they looked hard to put on so I skipped that step. Then one day I was towing the boat and started to smell diesel, and detect a miss...and I was like oh crap...should have listened to those "by the book guys" Most of the stories I've heard here and at the diesel stop about busted lines were because of that.
yARIC008
Drives really slow
Vibration can be bad 
... when in the hands of amateurs 
;p
... when in the hands of amateurs ;pswampdigger
Full Access Member
Uhh.... clamps? On the hard lines? We're not talking about the return line clamps, are we?
OOOOH! The clamps that bunch the lines together, with the little rubber pads?
OOOOH! The clamps that bunch the lines together, with the little rubber pads?
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
Ding!!! We have a winner......Why do I get the feeling you didn't have them on your lines
swampdigger
Full Access Member
Haha, on that bank I did have 'em! Time to go put them back on the other side though......
I'm gonna snap a pic when I'm out in the shop this afternoon. I think I have some sorta timing pulse adapter or something on the culprit injector. Hopefully someone else can tell me.
I'm gonna snap a pic when I'm out in the shop this afternoon. I think I have some sorta timing pulse adapter or something on the culprit injector. Hopefully someone else can tell me.
ericboutin
Full Access Member
If I'm reading your post correctly...one you don't have the clamps and two it's definitely not your return lines?.....Then speaking from experience as I've changed out two injector lines and most recently a third for no reason...anyway when mine were leaking as you describe the "nipple" where the line connects with the nut was cracked. I too ran for way to long without the clamps. I just installed the clamps on the odd side but because of PO fabbing custom lines on the even side I can't put any over there...I'll just wait until they all crack on that side. Anyway I'd be willing to bet your paycheck that you have a hairline crack that you can't see until you take the suspect line off and inspect it. Like I said both of mine that went were cracks up under the nut. Yes those clamps are vital!! And yes vibration must be a killer! Which line is it? Hopefully it's one of the lines that connects around the top of the pump. Good luck!
Ironman03R
Full Access Member
Ok Years ago I put glow plugs in my dads 88 250. I took off the clamps to get a better shot at the GP's and the got tossed in a drawer. A few years later one of the lines started to leak at the nut where it goes on the injector. For a temporary fix we used a Steel compression fitting. The flare had completely broke off the old line so I slid the fitting over the line, slid the line into the injector, and tightened the origional nut. This held for the next several years then the truck was sold. Never had a reason to go back and fix it right.
ericboutin
Full Access Member
As much as I go through injector lines...this is a awesome idea for a emergency semi-permanent fix!! 
Need to throw a couple in the toolbox for emergencies!
Need to throw a couple in the toolbox for emergencies!
Mr_Roboto
Full Access Member
I saved the good ends off some old broken injector lines for emergencies. I ran one with a 1/4" compression fitting for a few weeks, I see no reason why it can't be a "permanent" patch. I suppose it may throw off the timing on that cylinder since the original line properties are compromised.
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