Leaks and All That Fun Stuff

[Zion]

New year, new problems.
​

I apologize for how this reads, it’s 50/50 between rants and actual questions. The truck mentioned is an 89’ F250 with a 94’ IDIT. Regardless, I’m in serious need of help.

I replaced my return lines yesterday and took her for a drive to check for leaks. Cap 5 weeped some and 7 spit fuel. I was going to fix the leaks today but upon firing it up this afternoon, I was greeted with a few gut punches.

After it coughed to life, I noticed puffs coming from the exhaust hookup to the passenger header. I decided I’d drive it to meet up with some friends and get her up to temp. When under hard acceleration there was a syncopated chuffing sounding through the fire wall and a struggle getting up hills at ~60MPH (I attribute this to the fuel leaks.) I pulled up at the friend’s house and noticed that my truck was leaking as much as another pal’s trashed 5.9. With that being new, it’s concerning. Finally got the truck home and let it have a cool down. I popped the hood and revved the engine, previously mentioned exhaust leak was nowhere to be found. Anyways, she was still leaving little drip trails all the way up the entrance and driveway when I put it in the garage. During a 31 mile drive, I lost around 3/4 qt of oil. As far as locating that leak, I’m at a disadvantage. The entire engine is coated in oil and grime, it was like that when I bought it. It’s always leaked some oil, including from the turbo, but never enough to register a reduction on the dipstick. From what I can surmise, it’s coming from the passenger side. From where fresh oil starts, I would like to say it’s the valve cover gasket. I do not say this with certainty because with my luck, it is most likely something much more expensive. I would “clean” the block to have a better chance of catching leaks, but the amount of brake clean required to do so would kill every brain cell I have. I haven’t built up the courage to check the radiator for primordial ooze yet.

I purchased this truck in hopes of having a reliable and affordable daily driver, but I am about out of disposable income. I’ve got my next college term starting the 4th and only enough money to buy essentials. I know my post is painfully vague, I’ll try to post some photos tonight or tomorrow, but I’m basically looking for some advice on spotting leaks, tell-tale signs of trouble I should be looking for, and where to start in terms of trying to fix these issues. Any comments would be greatly appreciated, but some comedic relief would also be great. I’m running out of the energy to approach these issues with optimism and excitement. If you have a comment that requires me to supplement with photos and more specific explanations, I’d be happy to.

 

[miles1400]

well since you say it is covered in oil and grime it definitely has many leaks because dirt is attracted to the oil. as for your major leak, try tightening the oil feed line nuts, that is free. the oil feed is high pressure oil which would explain 3/4 qt for 31 miles. if tightening the fittings doesn't change it you may have a pinhole leak in the hard metal oil feed line

 

[Farmer Rock]

I assuming you don't have a pressure washer,so just drive over to a manual car wash and pressure wash the motor.Just be careful not to spray electrical components. Anything we say will just be guessing,so until the motor is spotless and you can diagnose the leak,it's hard to make suggestions.





Rock

 

[Clb]

Tldr
You first need to fix the air intrusion.
Second quit putting off what should be done NOW.
Hit the tech section and stickies.

 

[Zion]

Tldr
You first need to fix the air intrusion.
Second quit putting off what should be done NOW.
Hit the tech section and stickies.

The air intrusion is an issue that will be addressed as soon as I get Viton o-rings, couldn’t get any short notice on New Year’s Eve. I understand the importance of fixing one problem at a time and being timely in your repairs, but there is only so much I can do with a snow storm clocking in at 8 degrees. I research forums and the tech articles before I post, but I could not find one that was helpful in my situation.

 

[Zion]

I assuming you don't have a pressure washer,so just drive over to a manual car wash and pressure wash the motor.Just be careful not to spray electrical components. Anything we say will just be guessing,so until the motor is spotless and you can diagnose the leak,it's hard to make suggestions.





Rock

I live in BFE Egypt and the only wash station remotely near is closed. I might have enough mineral spirits and rags to clean it if I can find a respirator. I think it would be safe to start on the passenger side, it’s the only side with fresh oil.

 

[Stu Bailey]

If you are still getting leaks from your return lines and didn’t use vitons then I would recommend buying some from McMaster-Carr Part# 9464K24. A few weeks ago I did my return lines and had leaks coming from two caps when all done. After screwing around with those two for days I finally got tired of the crap and bought 50 vitons for $7 and damn, what a difference. No more leaks and stopped the hard starts because of air intrusion as well
I also had a decent leak of oil on passenger side that was showing up on my starter. I read on here that it is usually the VC gaskets and some people just tighten the bolts and it helps stop the leak. I ended up buying some felpro gaskets and installed them fairly easy and there is no more oil leaking on passenger side anymore, starter has been dry ever since. The gaskets were like $20 for the two.
As you mentioned, projects one at a time. That’s what I’ve been doing. I plan on cleaning the engine soon like you and checking for any other leaks. I heard you can put some dye in the fluids after cleaning and it will help you see new leaks. It’s like glow in the dark or some ****.

 

[Zion]

If you are still getting leaks from your return lines and didn’t use vitons then I would recommend buying some from McMaster-Carr Part# 9464K24. A few weeks ago I did my return lines and had leaks coming from two caps when all done. After screwing around with those two for days I finally got tired of the crap and bought 50 vitons for $7 and damn, what a difference. No more leaks and stopped the hard starts because of air intrusion as well
I also had a decent leak of oil on passenger side that was showing up on my starter. I read on here that it is usually the VC gaskets and some people just tighten the bolts and it helps stop the leak. I ended up buying some felpro gaskets and installed them fairly easy and there is no more oil leaking on passenger side anymore, starter has been dry ever since. The gaskets were like $20 for the two.
As you mentioned, projects one at a time. That’s what I’ve been doing. I plan on cleaning the engine soon like you and checking for any other leaks. I heard you can put some dye in the fluids after cleaning and it will help you see new leaks. It’s like glow in the dark or some ****.

I’m not familiar with a brand name but I believe it is some form of AC UV dye that you can inspect with black lights. I did see it specified that an oil-friendly version was hard to find. I bought a box of size-assorted Viton O-rings, I am aware of their ability to improve seals but from your description, would you consider it being worth the effort to replace all the current o-rings or just service the caps that need them?

 

[Farmer Rock]

I’m not familiar with a brand name but I believe it is some form of AC UV dye that you can inspect with black lights. I did see it specified that an oil-friendly version was hard to find. I bought a box of size-assorted Viton O-rings, I am aware of their ability to improve seals but from your description, would you consider it being worth the effort to replace all the current o-rings or just service the caps that need them?

Even if it only needs one,do them all.There is no sense in doing one,then a month later,you have to do more.



Rock

 

[Stu Bailey]

@Zion So I did them all even though I only had leaks on two caps. The others were only a few weeks old but I am a firm believer in the superiority of Vitons now. I could actually feel the difference when installing the caps between the two o rings. The vitons were superior. And like Rock said, do them once now and then don’t touch them for years!

 

[Zion]

@Zion So I did them all even though I only had leaks on two caps. The others were only a few weeks old but I am a firm believer in the superiority of Vitons now. I could actually feel the difference when installing the caps between the two o rings. The vitons were superior. And like Rock said, do them once now and then don’t touch them for years!

I don’t think the assorted 180pc kit I got will have enough O rings for all 8 caps, is there a specific retailer for Vitons that is preferable? I was under the impression the polymer was somewhat of a trade standard.

 

[Clb]

Look up the zicam bottle trick in the tech section.
I recall another member came up with it...

 

[Stu Bailey]

is there a specific retailer for Vitons that is preferable?

Im sure there is plenty. I bought mine from McMaster-Carr and they were delivered within two days. $10 for shipping, $7 for 50 o rings. I think I listed the part number in one of my above posts. Get some petroleum jelly from the dollar store too. Lube that **** up and don’t be shy. You’ll be leak free on your way to the beer store before you know it