Leaf spring bolt removal from truck

[jay_t]

I have read a bunch of post on removing the bushings, but I can't get that far. The bolts are stuck. Tried sledge hammer and heat. I kept the nut on back out flush with the threads to not mushroom the bolt. What next? A sawzall between the hanger and leaf spring, drop it and then burn/cut the old bushing out?

 

[Dieselcrawler]

what are you trying to accomplish? just leaf spring bushings? the bolt is most likely stuck to the sleeve in the bushing. cutting down each side inside the mount will get it out, and will mean you need new bolts. yes it works well. sawzall is best, cut off wheel will light the rubber on fire normally.

btw, bolts are metric....

 

[jay_t]

I am trying to replace the bushing, but I can get the bolt out to drop the spring. The nut came off pretty easy, but that is as far as I got.

Thanks

 

[madpogue]

Can or can't? Have you tried PB-Blaster or Kroil, and LOTS of it?

Does the bolt spin? Or does it turn and spring back? Or does it not turn at all?

 

[jay_t]

Can't get the bolt out. I did try rust penetrators, heat, and a hammer. It doesn't turn at all, used a big cheater bar. Because it is not springing back, it must be fused to the shackle.

 

[ifrythings]

When dealing with spring bolts, breaker bars and hammers do nothing, the breaker bar will just rip the inner sleeve from the rubber and the hammer will just deform the bolt.
You need a GOOD quality impact and an air hammer to have any hope getting the bolts out. I have used ball joint presses with moderate success but if your not careful you will just destroy the hanger or shackle. Sawzall are the safest way to cut the bolt on bolt sides as it doesn't grab the rubber and whip its self everywhere.

Heat and air hammer are the best bet to getting them out but don't try to save the bolts as when you get them out, you'll find them pretty corroded up.
Also as stated the bolts are metric but imperial plated bolts are way cheaper and fit better.

If replacing bolts go with:
Front shackle to frame - 5/8" x 3-1/2" Grade 8 with 9/16" uss flat washers and 5/8" stover nut
Front shackle to spring - 9/16" x 5" Grade 8 with 1/2" uss flat washers and 9/16" stover nut
Front spring to hanger - 9/16" x 5" Grade 8 with 1/2" uss flat washers and 9/16" stover nut

Rear spring to hanger - 5/8" x 5" Grade 8 with 9/16" uss flat washers and 5/8" stover nut
Rear spring to shackle - 9/16" x 5" Grade 8 with 1/2" uss flat washers and 9/16" stover nut
Rear shackle to hanger - 9/16" x 5" Grade 8 with 1/2" uss flat washers and 9/16" stover nut

Use a washer on the bolt head and the nut (2 washers for each bolt)

Note: the smaller size washers fit the bolts with no slop, but I've only tested the uss washer and not the sae washer (I believe they are smaller), Stover nut is a torque prevailing nut,
Use never sieze when reassembling on the entire bolt and sleeve of the bushing to help with future repairs

A ball joint press works really good at removing the rubber portion and sleeve out of the bushing and the sawzall will get the remainder of the metal shell out of the spring/shackle

P.s, a dedicated bolt store will have everything you need and at a way better price then any street corner hardware store or parts house.

Good luck, spring bolts fight all the way.

 

[laserjock]

I have had the most success with thin cut off wheels. Typically, I have heated the snot out of the thing and torn the inner sleeve away from the bushing so it will turn. Then cut and rotate, cut and rotate. Caution, you can have molten rubber flying around. The bolts are hard. If you go the sawzall route, buy good metal blades. A regular bimetal lasted me about 30 seconds before it wiped the teeth off of it. ball joint press seems to do pretty good at removing the bushings once you get it out of the truck. Just my 2 cents.

 

[jay_t]

I have had the most success with thin cut off wheels. Typically, I have heated the snot out of the thing and torn the inner sleeve away from the bushing so it will turn. Then cut and rotate, cut and rotate. Caution, you can have molten rubber flying around. The bolts are hard. If you go the sawzall route, buy good metal blades. A regular bimetal lasted me about 30 seconds before it wiped the teeth off of it. ball joint press seems to do pretty good at removing the bushings once you get it out of the truck. Just my 2 cents.

Cut off wheel is the answer. I used a chisel to move the leaf spring end over a bit to get in there.

The only sawzall blade to not roast the teeth off 5 seconds after I pulled the trigger was Bosch.

It was a real bear aligning the holes.

Thanks