justinray
Contributor
Overloaded the truck, I had a 94 f250 with a 351, pulled a CC '82 Chevy 6.2 4X4 home from Arkansas.
Laundry list of E4OD codes..
- Thread starter DeadMan
- Start date
Overloaded the truck, I had a 94 f250 with a 351, pulled a CC '82 Chevy 6.2 4X4 home from Arkansas.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
13 & 14 would be a concern . Failed tach sensor. This will kill the tranny.
23 is related to 13. Check your voltage setting. Verify that there is no dead spots in the TPS. Another tranny killer
29 check the sensor for metal shavings.
47 don't worry about that one.
62 Always shows up when a slip condition occurs. This is the fuzzy stuff on your magnet. This crap as gone through the transmission at this point. Consider it done. There is no way to remove metal without rebuilding it.
If you replace it flush your cooler and lines good. You don't want to kill your new transmission.
DeadMan
Registered User
Did a retest (with a brick on the throttle) today before tearing into the truck and ended up with these...
11
1
14
29
62
Then I started to pull the truck apart (LOTS of fun getting that starter out..) And I got to thinking about doing a buildup with pics for the forum. What do you think? Would it be worth it? Has it been done?
Thanks again for all the help! I never find this kind of help when I am on the mustang forum for my wife's car.
Also, I will leave you with pics of my new pet! Remember the furry monster I told you about?
11
1
14
29
62
Then I started to pull the truck apart (LOTS of fun getting that starter out..) And I got to thinking about doing a buildup with pics for the forum. What do you think? Would it be worth it? Has it been done?
Thanks again for all the help! I never find this kind of help when I am on the mustang forum for my wife's car.
Also, I will leave you with pics of my new pet! Remember the furry monster I told you about?
You must be registered for see images attach
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
11 means she cleared KOEO self-test fine.
Are you sure next code is a 1? Should be a 10, and that's not really a code, but a separator between different types of codes, in this case between KOEO and continuous memory.
Then 14 is cause of your faulty tach sensor, for 29 you wanna follow Trackspeeder's advice and pull the VSS from the rear axle and see if it's got metal buildup on it, and finally 62 is your slip code that doesn't really tell you anything you don't already know.
As for you pet, it's a cutie, but I think I can one-up you on it:
Are you sure next code is a 1? Should be a 10, and that's not really a code, but a separator between different types of codes, in this case between KOEO and continuous memory.
Then 14 is cause of your faulty tach sensor, for 29 you wanna follow Trackspeeder's advice and pull the VSS from the rear axle and see if it's got metal buildup on it, and finally 62 is your slip code that doesn't really tell you anything you don't already know.
As for you pet, it's a cutie, but I think I can one-up you on it:
You must be registered for see images attach
DeadMan
Registered User
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Must be a girl thing. I received pretty much the same comment from one as well. And mind you she's actually a gearhead (albeit with ricers) so she knew full well that was...
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
If the tach works okay at higher rpm I don't think your sensor is bad, probably just dirty and maybe bad wiring. Clean the face of the sensor and make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Also make sure it's screwed in all the way.
Ford/IH setup the engines with the tach sensor too far away from the gear so it doesn't generate a very good signal making them very sensitive to poor connections and such. I think 9-% of the tach problems would be fixed if the sensor was 0.010-0.020" closer to the gear, but unfortunately the only way to do that is to have a lathe and machine the sensor.
Ford/IH setup the engines with the tach sensor too far away from the gear so it doesn't generate a very good signal making them very sensitive to poor connections and such. I think 9-% of the tach problems would be fixed if the sensor was 0.010-0.020" closer to the gear, but unfortunately the only way to do that is to have a lathe and machine the sensor.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Idk, I've tried cleaning sensors before, no luck there. As for bringing the sensor closer to the gear, machining sensor is a no-no for ease of parts replacement, but what about grinding the housing boss for it down a bit? It certainly looks like it can handle it especially if you're only taking .010" off it.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Easier said than done I fear. You'd need to be perfectly square and level as the sensor seals against that outside shoulder on the housing. To me the sensor is much easier - just chuck it up in the lathe and go to town. Ease of parts replacement is a nonissue - you ever need to replace it you just throw a stock unit in there and it'll work just as well as it does now.
The sensor is easier to replace if you ****** it up machining too......
The sensor is easier to replace if you ****** it up machining too......
