Just started my 7.3* build

Buffetkiller

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Very hard to keep up with questions lol bare with me.
Also responses are showing up after i refresh so it looks like i am blatantly ignoring some of you.
Goo on injectors is in fact lots of antiseize.
I know the PO it was his highschool truck the truck was beat other than the front dana 60, zf5, and motor.
It was not running when i bought it due too there being no batteries.(was really looking for the dana and zf5) I probly should have ran it before taking it out but since im going through it i should be good. It used to burn A LOT of oil im now thinking cause that circle valve on the back of the intake looks like its never been touched. The cylinders all looked dry! Heavy carbon though...
The motor also looks like its been gone through also. There is orange rtv on just about everything. And was pretty dry for the most part so someone sealed it up good.

Thankyou for more literature aslo!:)
 

ih8minimumwage

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I've just seen some horrorshow engines that were completely put together and globbed over with the generic orange stuff (including trying to re-use headgaskets), so I associate it with that and it always makes me concerned when something comes in glued together with it.

I probably should've added a "Haha" to the end of my last post, didn't intend it to sound too serious.
 

Buffetkiller

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Got ya. I feel that way a little bit also when i see orange rtv but on this one it looks as though they had done a nice clean job.

Found out yesterday that the motor currently in my truck has blown headgaskets:) probly a better case of blown headgaskets(if there is one) no water in my oil. Just compression making oil leak down the back of the motor.

SO.... now my project motor might be going in a different direction. Im thinking of getting the heads off my core motor redone then just doing head studs on my current motor and putting fresh heads on it. Then just slowly buying parts for thats currently running.

I have seen on here that headstuds are possible in the truck. What do you guys think?
Also what do you think of that plan? I think it would be the cheapest route and i know my motor is in good running shape.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I've just seen some horrorshow engines that were completely put together and globbed over with the generic orange stuff (including trying to re-use headgaskets), so I associate it with that and it always makes me concerned when something comes in glued together with it.
I've seen the overuse of RTV plenty of times myself. I hadn't seen it on any head gaskets until I bought my current 85 F250 and had a head gasket go out. That engine did have oragne RTV used on the head gaskets. I still wonder what happened to it. It was built by our shop (not by me though) and installed by me in late 98 or the first half or 99. I can remember the truck.
I have seen on here that headstuds are possible in the truck. What do you guys think?
Also what do you think of that plan? I think it would be the cheapest route and i know my motor is in good running shape
While the studs can be installed with the engine in the truck I don't recommend it. The heads, too, can be R&R'd with the engine in the truck. Both together? There's NO WAY that I'd even attempt it. It may seem easier, but it really isn't in my opinion. The engine isn't too hard to pull out and you can easily work on everything with it out. You stand less of a chance of damaging head gaskets. The mounting surfaces are much easier to clean with the engine out of the truck too.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I don't think you can do it with all of the studs in. The heads will hit the firewall and not drop over the studs. If you insist on trying to install the studs with the engine in the truck, I think that you have to remove part or all of the heater box. Then you have to have several of the rearmost studs already in the holes in the heads while you sit the heads in place. You will have to hold them up so that they aren't sticking below the lower surface of the head. At least on trucks with an auto trans, the shift linkages coming off of the steering column will cause similar clearance problems. the studs that don't have to be in the heads can be put in after the heads are sitting in place.
 

ih8minimumwage

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I did studs and head gaskets in the truck. Heater box needs to be pulled, the firewall padding is tight, and IIRC you hang the rear studs inside the head wrapped with rubber bands while you swing them in.
 

homelessduck

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It would be best to pull the engine and get it on a stand. It is much easier to prep the block for new head gaskets and get everything torqued correctly with the engine out. It is a good time to reseal your oil pan as well. It is a pita doing it in the truck. I am actually in the middle of doing the same thing. What lift / tire size ?
 

Buffetkiller

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It would be best to pull the engine and get it on a stand. It is much easier to prep the block for new head gaskets and get everything torqued correctly with the engine out. It is a good time to reseal your oil pan as well. It is a pita doing it in the truck. I am actually in the middle of doing the same thing. What lift / tire size ?
Lift is 6"ish? and tire size is 37x13.5r22

Ya you guys are right ill just wait and refresh this motor I have out then drop it in. I was just weighing my options, its been running good since the day I got it so it should hold. still awaiting on R n Ds response as to when he can check out the block for me. I live 20 min away so should be easy. but I will be doing the heads I just want R n D to look at cavitation issues and once over everything so I'm good.
 

Buffetkiller

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I wanna keep all my questions in this thread...
having a ebrake failure. Its stretched out all the way. What part of the cable stretches? The replacement that i cant find is after the tensioner and was wondering if those cables were the ones i need.

BTW heads are refreshed. I just got them done by a dude i know because i got very busy. I need head gaskets and studs now. Ill post pictures and cool stuff as i do the project once i grab all the parts i need
 
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