Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Cubey, Sep 19, 2019.
I'd think that would be pretty good mileage with a V10.
That's their claim anyway. I wonder if they actually track it with Fuelly or something like that.
Mine had 5 to 6 year old diesel in both tanks when I got it. I'm positive there was plenty of fuzzy snot in the tanks, judging by how much of it was in the IP.
I added diesel kleen, and ran it. No problem.
Yep, I had a 2000 Durango 4x4 with the 360. It got 13-14 empty, and maybe 9 if I was really easy when towing. The worst trip was after a mini rally in Angola, Indiana. I filled up at the exit, getting on I-69 at Angola. When I got to my exit for State Road 9 south in Anderson, Indiana (approximately 120 miles) the low fuel light came on. I was pushing a fairly stiff headwind, and was hoofing it, but that was just horrible. Was really nice when I bought the Excursion, and I would get better mileage towing, than I did empty in the Durango.
I know someone that’s had both a Class C and a smaller Class A with the V-10. If you don’t push it hard when accelerating from a stop (don’t have to be the first away from the light and the first up to the speed limit) he has consistently gotten 10-11 or better.
Yes - added a primary filter on the suction side of the pump.
If its really nasty, I manually pour it through a sock filter before it goes in the truck.
I always switch back and forth with my tanks, think it may help with the switch valve stay working right. Tank get low change tanks the fill when find fuel way I do it.
I'm cheating, and having mine fixed.
Gauge will peg way past full the instant you switch it to the front tank. And the truck will run out of fuel. I'll post what the problems were, once it is fixed.
But with my old truck, the way I ran it was to fill up both tanks at once. Switch it to the smaller, rear tank. Run that until it getting close to half a tank. Then switch it to the front, and run that until about a quarter tank. Then switch back to the back tank. and the very next time I was in town, fill them both back up again.
If I had to replace the tank switch valve, I'd be sorely tempted to invest in some elbows and tees, and some electric solenoids. Thinking that sort of setup would be cheaper in the long run, than an oem replacement. Plus would be easy to replace just part of it, if some part of it failed in the future. (With the expensive oem replacement, if only part of it failed again, you'd still have to replace the whole thing, again.)
Solenoid valves are going to live in the same crappy environment under the truck as the stock switching valve.
Manual ball valves all probably your longest-lasting option. Makes a nifty anti-theft device too.
I actually thought of that. And for the same reason. Great idea. Much more robust.
But at my age, I don't want to be stopping in the middle of nowhere, and crawling in the mud, to get down there and open/close those valves.
Also didn't like the idea of moving those up into the cab where they'd be easier to reach, (and not having to get out of the truck). But I don't like the idea of moving the fuel lines into the cab with me.
Do you have some idea that will keep them protected and out of sight, without having to open the hood, or crawl in the mud?
I'm thinking that if I did the solenoids and got really paranoid about the environment they are in, I could just build a hermetically sealed box around them...
I actually uninstalled a FSV cause it would stick. took it apart, fixed nothing. Years later I ran it on the bench like 50 times and reinstalled it, works fine. The only trick to it was to cycle it over and over to keep it lubed I guess. So now when switching tanks I toggle it 10 times. Works great!
As for old disel: spare filter, treat the tank and
If putting in manual valves one has to keep in mind have to have valves for the fuel return too.
My buddy mounted them under the cab with the valve stem and handle inside the truck. Aftermarket extra tanks were often done like this too.
I'm considered making a multi-valve arrangement that went on the side of the frame. Something I could reach from squatting next to the truck. Maybe a piece of mudflap to hide it from view and road debris.
As long as you are already altering the system anyway... Or as they say, in for a penny, in for a pound.
This guy bought two single selectors and manually wired them in together, one for supply and one for return. But then you have two failure points instead of one.
Separate names with a comma.