I've got some problems guys

FordGuy100

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Well first off my truck is still running like a champ, but I have some problems with my truck that I need some answers to.

First off I was driving my sister home from school and I got stuck behind a slow guy and my dad caught up to us. I drove on like everything was normal. I got home and my dad said that my brake lights were always on, as if I was stepping on the brake pedal the whole time. Do you suppose this could be caused by me shoving a whole bunch of wiring and gauge amplifiers under the dash. Maybe I crossed some wires in there or something.

Second, me and my sister headed up to the "Basin". What it is is about 5 miles to the east of us, and the elevation goes from 1500' at our house to about 4000'. We wanted to play in the snow. So we were going along and I was going around 30mph on this gravel road (essentially a heavily used logging road). I saw this nice buck about 100 yards off the road, but some trees got in the way, cause I was doing like 30, so I slammed on the brakes and turned the wheel to the left fairly sharply to whip my back end around a little bit so I could turn around and look (not a very wide road, ened up about a 6 point turn, there was a cliff behind us of a good 200' so i didnt want to get to clost to the edge. So I slammed on the brakes and I hear this really weird grinding noise coming from my left front wheel. I got out and I could see inside the wheel, where the brake is at and there was a hug gouge going all the way around the inside of the wheel, it actually shaved off a good amoun of aluminum. I was kinda scared that I screwed up my wheel and had my sister stand out in the snow (;Sweet) and look at it when I drove to make sure it wasnt off balance or rotated lopsided. It didnt so I cleaned out all the Aluminum shavings and drove home being careful to avoid potholes and I took it easy. What the heck could have caused this. The brake sheild (or at least thats what I think it is) is the closest thing to the wheel with about a .5"-.75" of clearance.

Next the turbo is kinda throwing a little oil. Its not much, but theres little tiny specs on the rear of my passenger side valve cover and a little on the firwall. Its not bad at all, its not like its drenched or anything, but theres some little specs back there. I just figured I should ask and make sure all is good, though I bet its nothing that will hurt. Maybe its from the install I dont know. Another turbo question, when I let it idle, especially warm, it the turbo will spool up a little, then spool back down. It does it every couple of seconds, it will switch from spooled up (for idle) to spooled down. When I was driving on the logging road today and stopped to look at my wheel, it was doing it rather loudly, it kinda sounded like a siren off in the distance, if you know what I mean.

And lastly sometimes when I get on it hard it sounds like I'm having some exhaust clearance issues when the boost gets up to around 6psi. I suppose its the downpipe clearance, I should clear it a little more from the heat shield to the bottom of the cab, I bet thats what it is.

I gotta go and fill up tommorow, I'll figure out what kind of milage I'm getting the next fill-up. Before the turbo I was avarageing 16.5-17mpg, I'll have to see what it goes down to.
 

RLDSL

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The brake light bit is probably the switch. I think its the usual type that contacts the arm from the brake pedal, and it would be real easy to knock it out of whack while stringing wires. No big deal.

As far as the wheel, jack up that side and shake the wheel all directions and look for play. If none, chances are you just kicked a nice big chunk of gravel up in there and it left it's mark.

-----------Robert
 

SKimballC

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Is the parking brake light in the dash on? It could very well be from the mess of wires and gauge amplifiers that got crammed up there. Check around the foot brake too for errant wires around the travel of the pedal. Your brake lights were functioning normally the night of the install when I was behind you.

As for the wheel, something's wrong. Take the wheel off and inspect.

Is there any oil underneath the turbo on the intake manifold? If its coming from the turbo, it could only be leaking either at the pedestal or at the oil feed line. Check both.
 

FordGuy100

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The brake light bit is probably the switch. I think its the usual type that contacts the arm from the brake pedal, and it would be real easy to knock it out of whack while stringing wires. No big deal.

As far as the wheel, jack up that side and shake the wheel all directions and look for play. If none, chances are you just kicked a nice big chunk of gravel up in there and it left it's mark.

-----------Robert

Ok, I'll get under it and look. Hopefully all it was was a rock getting stuck up in there, I'm hopeing that I got something seriously wrong with my wheel.

I will go and look under the turbo for oil tommorow, along with jacking up the truck and making sure all is ok with the wheel.

Looks like I'll be driving the parents rig tommorow.
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Uh that wheel grinding could very easily be a problem we've ALWAYS had with my grandpas 83. And its the passenger side too. It's always breaking the pins out of the caliper and then the thing slides off the disk when you press on the brakes. Pull the wheel and be darn sure that its not that. Cus if it is, you WILL grind a hole in your wheel (trust me we've done it).
 

FordGuy100

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Uh that wheel grinding could very easily be a problem we've ALWAYS had with my grandpas 83. And its the passenger side too. It's always breaking the pins out of the caliper and then the thing slides off the disk when you press on the brakes. Pull the wheel and be darn sure that its not that. Cus if it is, you WILL grind a hole in your wheel (trust me we've done it).

Dang, I suppose that could be it. I'll pull the wheel tommorow after school and see what going on (I would do it tonight, but I have a couple of tests I have to "study" for)
 

FordGuy100

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Is the parking brake light in the dash on? It could very well be from the mess of wires and gauge amplifiers that got crammed up there. Check around the foot brake too for errant wires around the travel of the pedal. Your brake lights were functioning normally the night of the install when I was behind you.

No the parking brake wasnt on, on the dash. Though my electric trailer brake controller has its light flash everytime I hit a bump or go over a bumpy road.
 

typ4

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Might be a good idea to check all the turbo bolts you can get to. Make sure the brake pedal is returning all the way.
 

FordGuy100

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Might be a good idea to check all the turbo bolts you can get to. Make sure the brake pedal is returning all the way.

Okay, I'll turn a wrench on the turbo bolts in the next couple of days. Thanks for the help guys.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I don't want to alarm you, but it sounds to me like your turbo is in need of a rebuild.

The internal seals are likely shot, thus the spinning blades are slinging oil.

Bad sloppy bearings are what cause the seals to leak.


It won't get better and will soon eat bearings and cause the turbo to disentegrate, and all the little pieces get sucked through the manifold, into the cylinders, and on top of the too-hot pistons, causing all kinds of expensive damage.


If the leaking and noise is much worse at idle than it is at speed, then the above is most likely your problem.
 

Agnem

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I'll second that based on the comment of the turbo speed varying at idle. The seals are probably causing an increase or loss of friction.
 

typ4

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Well it really shouldnt be the turbo since I just rebuilt it before selling it to him . I am guessing the oil is coming from the cdr and seeping out of the compressor side, my brand new ats does that and it even has the oring seal housing.
 

tonkadoctor

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Well it really shouldnt be the turbo since I just rebuilt it before selling it to him . I am guessing the oil is coming from the cdr and seeping out of the compressor side, my brand new ats does that and it even has the oring seal housing.

I'm sure you did a good job on it but never discount or pass over something because it is new or just rebuilt... That mode of thinking will bite you in the @$$ every time. I can't count how many NEW and REMAN parts I have used over the last 25+ years of wrenching on stuff that were bad right out of the box or failed within days.

Murphy has been hanging out on the west coast visiting with Gary quite frequently and Murphy's Law dictates that a part will fail when new just so you spend time and money on everything else for at least a month or so before finally looking at the "NEW" part and finding the real problem.
 

Ford428CJ

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I'm sure you did a good job on it but never discount or pass over something because it is new or just rebuilt... That mode of thinking will bite you in the @$$ every time. I can't count how many NEW and REMAN parts I have used over the last 25+ years of wrenching on stuff that were bad right out of the box or failed within days.

Murphy has been hanging out on the west coast visiting with Gary quite frequently and Murphy's Law dictates that a part will fail when new just so you spend time and money on everything else for at least a month or so before finally looking at the "NEW" part and finding the real problem.

Before we just jump at what we might think would be the problem, lets do some investigating. I had the same problem......OIL LEAK! I took some paper towels and wrapped one around my OPT, one under the air compressor and one down at the oil galley at the base of the block (Supplies oil to the Turbo and the OPT, right where the adapter goes right in the oil galley of the block).

Went for a short drive (Ran it hard) and pulled out the towels. The Turbo was bone dry. Same with the OPT. It was coming from the oil galley at the base of the block! I took it all apart and used a fibber washer to seal it up. It worked!
 

FordGuy100

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So Ford428CJ, your turbo looked like it was throwing oil, and was kinda spooling up and down at idle? Hopefully its something as easy as that.

Whats the price of a rebuild Russ? Its not your fault if its in need of a rebuild, I wont hold it against you. My parents I know are going to throw in the "well we told you getting a turbo was a bad idea, and look now you need to throw more money at it" crap. So if I need to rebuild it, we might as well go ahead and upgrade the houseing to something that will provide a couple psi more boost without heating up the air any more than what the 8psi max I'm seeing now would. Maybe like a .84 A/R housing or something, I know next to nothing about turbo's, but its sounds good to me ;Sweet. It has a .77 A/R housing right now, any recomendations on what size I should be looking at to upgrade my turbo to? I'll kinda throw out some weird turbo talk to my parents and confuse them into thinking I'm upgrading, while I'm rebuiling/upgrading. So Russ what would a rebuild and upgrade cost me? I take the turbo out and deliver it to you as well.

Man all I got to say is Murphy has been knocking at my door the last couple of days.
 

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