It drives now!

1994Diesel

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I hooked up the vcv and drove My 76 300D around today!

It shifts through all th gears but tends to slip a little. I have yet to actually adjust the vacuum modulator and find the vacuum leak that prevents the car from shutting off. :mad:
 

1994Diesel

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Thanks!

Ya, I have a long ways to go until im done with this car.

Two current issues are the glow plugs staying on and of course the alternator not charging? The battery light is on even with the car off. I think the wrong belt is being used for the alternator because it is slack and adjusted as far as it can go.
 

1994Diesel

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Well I'm happy to share with you guys that the car is in drivable functioning condition. I have a new alternator installed, so the red battery light problem has gone away.

I just need to rig up a push button for the glow plugs. The existing glow plug relay has failed and stays on.
 

1994Diesel

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Congratulations on getting the alternator done! ;Sweet

yea, thanks. Its a nightmare replacing one of these compared to replacing on on the 7.3. I need to get a ratcheting end wrench because i couldn't even fit my 3/8s drive ratchet down behind the alternator. I ended up doing gradual 1/4 turns with a box end wrench to get the nuts off.
 

1994Diesel

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I was talking to my boss today and he told me about a Mercedes benz yard in Santa Paula, CA today. The discussion was brief but it got me excited. I will be investigating this alleged yard. lol
 

itsacrazyasian

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I was talking to my boss today and he told me about a Mercedes benz yard in Santa Paula, CA today. The discussion was brief but it got me excited. I will be investigating this alleged yard. lol

dont adjust the shift modulator till you get your vacuum leaks taken care of first!
Also grab a few of the glow plug relays and tach amps too when you are at the yard. Pretty common failure. (if you have a tach)
 

1994Diesel

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dont adjust the shift modulator till you get your vacuum leaks taken care of first!
Also grab a few of the glow plug relays and tach amps too when you are at the yard. Pretty common failure. (if you have a tach)

I dont see the harm in adjusting the internal pressure if the procedure doesnt involve the vacuum line to be hooked up to the vacuum modulator. :dunno

I would grab a glow plug relay at the junk yard if i could find one. MBs are pretty much non existant in junk yards here on the central coast. You will how ever find a sh*t ton of toyotas and hondas here. -cuss

No tach here.... If i can figure out how to install one on an om617 i will. :sly
 

itsacrazyasian

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I dont see the harm in adjusting the internal pressure if the procedure doesnt involve the vacuum line to be hooked up to the vacuum modulator. :dunno

I would grab a glow plug relay at the junk yard if i could find one. MBs are pretty much non existant in junk yards here on the central coast. You will how ever find a sh*t ton of toyotas and hondas here. -cuss

No tach here.... If i can figure out how to install one on an om617 i will. :sly

I know MB has a procedure to adjust them, i adjust them by feel. I can usually get these cars to shift firm but not harsh. But i've seen waaay to many people adjust them with vacuum leaks and end up knocking them even further out of adjustment. I hardly see OM617's in the yards. My 84 300SD had over 400K on the motor and we just picked up a 81 for my buddy. When i do see them in the yard they are trashed!
 

The Warden

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No tach here.... If i can figure out how to install one on an om617 i will. :sly
I don't think a tach was an option on any variant of the W115 chassis, so if you want a tach, you're probably going to have to go aftermarket...although I don't think it's really necessary. Let me demonstrate why:

You must be registered for see images attach

On the speedo, inside of the numbers, you see four sets of hash marks. The first mark is at 40, the second at about 65, the third just over 100, and the fourth just above 150. The marks indicate the top speed for each gear...the first one for 1st gear, etc, with the last mark indicating the theoretical maximum speed i.e. where the engine hits the governor in top gear. I think the cluster's out of a 240D, and it's CERTAINLY out of a Euro model, so your hash marks will be at different points, but you get the idea...

FWIW tachs were standard on turbo 617's, but I think there's a difference in the flywheel cover to accommodate the sending unit. Tachs weren't even options on any naturally-aspirated M-B diesels from the factory...
 

1994Diesel

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I don't think a tach was an option on any variant of the W115 chassis, so if you want a tach, you're probably going to have to go aftermarket...although I don't think it's really necessary. Let me demonstrate why:

You must be registered for see images attach

On the speedo, inside of the numbers, you see four sets of hash marks. The first mark is at 40, the second at about 65, the third just over 100, and the fourth just above 150. The marks indicate the top speed for each gear...the first one for 1st gear, etc, with the last mark indicating the theoretical maximum speed i.e. where the engine hits the governor in top gear. I think the cluster's out of a 240D, and it's CERTAINLY out of a Euro model, so your hash marks will be at different points, but you get the idea...

FWIW tachs were standard on turbo 617's, but I think there's a difference in the flywheel cover to accommodate the sending unit. Tachs weren't even options on any naturally-aspirated M-B diesels from the factory...

Wow warden! You are a MB encyclopedia! Thanks for that info.... I was wondering what those yellow marks were for.

Just a little update; after i show my brother how to change the oil on my moms car and rotate the tires i will show him how to do so on the benz. First i will change the oil pan gasket.

I have a set of valve adjustment wrenches in the mail that i ordered from ebay. This seller buys 14mm craftsmen wrenches, bends them to the right angles, and welds on extension/handles. Pretty cool if you ask me.
 

1994Diesel

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Found this in my oil pick up screen

I pulled my oil pan to change out the gasket and decided to take a look at the screen and clean it and i found these ball bearings and plastic bits. It appears that i found the remnants of two bearings from the vacuum pump.

I did not hear any horrible noises suggesting a bad vacuum pump before i pulled the oil pan. I have confirmed on peachparts forum that it most likely was from a previous vacuum pump failure in this cars life and the person replacing it failed to remove the shrapnel. cookoo

Its pretty disturbing that all that crap had to be flying around in the crank case for some time before it made it into the pick up screen.

I have collected 10 of 12 ball bearings. I figure that the other 2 made their way out during an oil change.

The little plastic bits have signs of wear (rounding off of the edges) on all surfaces suggesting that they were in there for some time.
 

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The Warden

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The good news is, the ball bearings are heavy enough that they probably fell pretty much straight down...if the engine seems happy, I wouldn't be too worried. You might want to pull the valve cover and have a friend bar the engine over while you inspect the condition of the timing chain...if you haven't already, can't hurt to check the timing chain stretch while you're at it.

I got lucky...in driving M-B's for nearly 110K miles, I never had a vacuum pump failure...I would concur with what you got on PeachParts about this being from a previous failure...
 

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