is a rebuilt engine as good as a new one?

[Papabear]

Wow these guys are smoking crack:

http://www.rebuiltdiesels.com/html/ford/Ford_Drop_In/IHC_Truck/index.cfm

these guys are the best in Canada that i know of Inform of a better one please if there is one

 

[mankypro]

diesel dealer did my engine, seems to be fine and they're 1k less per engine....

 

[hesutton]

There's got to be something wrong, if a sleved went bad. The only thing there that makes sense is; all three (3) blocks had too many bad miles on them, and they were suffering from cavitation in other parts. We have to look a things with logic. I have heard that 150K miles without treatment is a point when cavitation begins. I was under the assumption that cavitation happened to the cylinder sleeves. And if someone puts in a new sleeve, and it fails within a short period of time; well a few things come to mind. One, poor workmanship is a possibility; Two, cavitation happened to another area of the block and/or heads; and, Three there was a problem with the chemical balance, i.e. the block(s) were so badly corroded the cavitation issue was greatly amplified.

I just know that, under the laws of physics something (new with no corresive issues) does not go bad, unless there was another element involved which was either overlooked, or ignored.

Marq

They screwed the sleeve job according to Dave. It had nothing to do with cavitation. On all the blocks he gotten from them, the sleeves moved in the block!!! They obviously had or are having issues sleeving these blocks correctly. When the sleeve moves in the block, you can imagine the damage it will do.

Heath

 

[MARQ2277]

Holy crap!! I would be one mad son of a gun. Is there any way that the blocks can be saved, or did they screw them up beyound repair??

Marq
_________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[MARQ2277]

Rebuilt, remanufactured, for $21k those parts better be gold plated

Marq
______________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[GREASE FIRE]

They screwed the sleeve job according to Dave. It had nothing to do with cavitation. On all the blocks he gotten from them, the sleeves moved in the block!!! They obviously had or are having issues sleeving these blocks correctly. When the sleeve moves in the block, you can imagine the damage it will do.

Heath

do you know where the thread is that explains all this?
thanks,
Paul

 

[icanfixall]

The installation of a sleeve needs to have an interferance fit. Its called the press. Sometimes on large diameters the fit will be as much as 6 thousands. So our sleeves should have at least a 1 1/2 to 2 thousands fit. I personally prefer a 3 thousands press fit. This all means the bore in the block is that much smaller than the sleeve. These sleeves will "shrink" easily in liquid nitrogen. If the shop doesn't have that find another shop. Don't let them tell you they use superglue or red loctite to "hold them in the bore". Freezing them in the refrigerator wont work either. Dry ice is ok but I don't feel it gives enough shrink fit. Once the sleeves are in the block they need to be held inplace with allthread and a strongback. Otherwise they can "walk out" as they normalize in temp to the block. I have plenty more information on sleeving a block correctly if its needed.

 

[MARQ2277]

Wow, somebody who knows what he's talking about, cool. Now I know who to ask if I have any issues. Most people, including shops don't know how to properly re-sleeve an engine (unless it's a wet sleeve). You're the first person I have seen to know what an interference fit is. Huh, maybe you can fix all!! lol

Marq
______________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[hesutton]

do you know where the thread is that explains all this?
thanks,
Paul

He discusses this somewhere in the "20 psi IDI" or something like that thread.

Heath

On Edit: found it........Click Here. He starts posting on Page 3, post #43 I think.

 

[GREASE FIRE]

The installation of a sleeve needs to have an interferance fit. Its called the press. Sometimes on large diameters the fit will be as much as 6 thousands. So our sleeves should have at least a 1 1/2 to 2 thousands fit. I personally prefer a 3 thousands press fit. This all means the bore in the block is that much smaller than the sleeve. These sleeves will "shrink" easily in liquid nitrogen. If the shop doesn't have that find another shop. Don't let them tell you they use superglue or red loctite to "hold them in the bore". Freezing them in the refrigerator wont work either. Dry ice is ok but I don't feel it gives enough shrink fit. Once the sleeves are in the block they need to be held inplace with allthread and a strongback. Otherwise they can "walk out" as they normalize in temp to the block. I have plenty more information on sleeving a block correctly if its needed.

i actually called reviva again to find out what process they use. He said a few years ago they used a flanged sleeve but stopped using it because the flange would crack and the sleeve would come out. That is probably what happened to the guy on this forum who lost three engines in less than a year, rebuilt at reviva. He said now they use a pressed fit but he was not sure if they actually freeze it and, if so, how. I guess i would have to get one of the mechanics on the phone to find out that part - but that seems unlikely.

 

[icanfixall]

I'm not sure who the member was here but when he got his block back from sleeving he found such a small lip at the bottom of the bore that he could and did break it off with his fingers. That block was ruined. The sleeve needs to rest firmly on a lip thick enough to support it. Usually thats around 1/4 to 3/8th inch of parent bore material. Then all you really need to do is face off the sleeve as it sits above the deck. Job done... All this really depends on a square bore to the crank and the sleeve is fitting squarely to that lip. Freeze it and drop it in but hold it inplace with a strongback and all thread. When the head in installed it will hold the sleeve from moving if any thing happens. Its really not rocket science at all. Just simple knowing how things react to liquid nitrogen temps. The smaller the diameter the less something with stretch or shrink. Heating a bearing race to around 225 degrees will make it grow plenty. I was installing 15 inch x 18 inch long bearing races on shafts. At that temp the race would grow around 15 to 18 thousands bigger than the shaft. Slide it on and hold it in place till the temps normalize. It was really neat work. Getting them off we really heated them up way past 300 degrees. They were being replaced. Usually we would hang the shaft with the brearings and races pionting down. Apply really large rosebuds to it and gravity will tell you when they are going to drop off.