IP Wear

[TestDriver]

My truck had been down since before Christmas with a bad pump. I'd tried fixing both bad pumps I had to no avail. The latest one failed in an odd manner in that it kept needing to raise the idle speed and in the end, it could hardly stay running after being very difficult to start.

I made an adapter to check on transfer pressure and at cranking speed, it showed 0psi. Somewhere online I read that crank pressure should be 20psi so I figured the transfer pump was bad. I replaced the transfer pump on it and pressure went right up to 20psi at cranking but it still would not fire up.

This led me to believe that the pump was bad so I set out to find another one. The one I found was a Ford Remanufactured unit which I took appart to compare the rotor/head surfaces. The pictures below illustrate the difference in surface wear between one of my bad pumps and the reman pump. Interestingly, the bad pump has a reman plate on it but the head does not have the etching that the Ford unit had that states "Remanufactured".


This raised a question. Does the etching on the head indicate that it and the rotor were resurfaced? I know there is a process by which this can be done and it being a factory job would assume the quality of rebuild would be high so it's not far fetched.

The difference in surfaces makes me want to not run my usual fuel through it till my centrifuge setup is done. Has anyone else here taken a pump apart before and after it's life cycle on WMO? If so, how long did they go? This thing is running very well now and starts better than ever even in the current cold weather.

Of note is, the interference fit between the bad unit's parts feel only slightly less tight than the newly reman unit's parts.

I'll be looking to repair my spare units' heads and rotors. Where is a good place to send stuff out for hard chrome plating? Should I do nickel instead?

 

[Black dawg]

Ive had a few apart, and they get that dull fuzzy look instead of shiny.

 

[97idi]

i just broke one down about an hour ago and its all shiny

 

[Agnem]

There is no question that WMO is going to chew your pump up very slowly. So when you fill up, you take the money you would have spent on diesel, and put it in a jelly jar. Once you have $700 in your jelly jar, the rest of your miles are more or less free. When your pump, injectors, or glow plugs die, you just shrug and reach for the jelly jar.

 

[sassyrel]

There is no question that WMO is going to chew your pump up very slowly. So when you fill up, you take the money you would have spent on diesel, and put it in a jelly jar. Once you have $700 in your jelly jar, the rest of your miles are more or less free. When your pump, injectors, or glow plugs die, you just shrug and reach for the jelly jar.

but then--this also begs the question--of also how fine people are filtering their wmo---------and expound--on what happened long term--that your prechambers got filled with burnt residue over a long period of time from wmo??

 

[TestDriver]

i just broke one down about an hour ago and its all shiny

Had this pump any WMO run through it? If so, how many miles did it have? Is there any particulars on filtering you could share?

 

[97idi]

Had this pump any WMO run through it? If so, how many miles did it have? Is there any particulars on filtering you could share?

never WMO while i had it, 200,000 miles.

well for filtering when ever i make bio the last step is through a .5 micron filter
now as to how it would hold up to wmo iam not shure cuz they are water filters but they work good, and u may also beable to use a centrifuge but iam not shure how well they would work with wmo.
and i really dont belive any ammount of filtering or treating is going to help the end results of long term use of wmo

 

[TestDriver]

but then--this also begs the question--of also how fine people are filtering their wmo---------and expound--on what happened long term--that your prechambers got filled with burnt residue over a long period of time from wmo??

The pre-chambers and deposits are another issue that is probably better left for other threads. I'm interested more on pump life and yes, how it relates to filtering.

In my case, when I got this truck, once warm, it started like a top. Six of the plugs were bad and when I replaced them, it fired willingly all the time. This is much like the current case. However, over time, it got harder to start and it failed suddenly due to a broken filter.

The first pump failure happened after some 3500 miles of WMO running. My filtering consisted of settling water out and filtering down to 20 microns then running the oil through the factory filter which I believe is 10 microns. The factory filter would only go about 1000 miles but the fuel savings still justified it. Had the last filter not broken, it might have gone longer. I just don't know.

The second pump I installed was a used one that I did not open up to look at the condition of the rotor/head before WMO. In essence, I started this thread hoping to answer some of the questions left by my not doing this.

The bad thing is, I've now installed three pumps (one twice) in the truck and enjoyed none of it. So, I'm leery of running WMO in this one before I either know I can get a significant number of miles or get my centrifuge system finished.

 

[TestDriver]

never WMO ........................................................................
and i really dont belive any ammount of filtering or treating is going to help the end results of long term use of wmo

Yup, this might be very true but long is relative. With my millage and if I had to buy new pumps, I'd need to go at least 10,000 miles between pumps just to break even and raid the jelly jar. I'm glad I'm not on that plan though.

 

[97idi]

Yup, this might be very true but long is relative. With my millage and if I had to buy new pumps, I'd need to go at least 10,000 miles between pumps just to break even and raid the jelly jar. I'm glad I'm not on that plan though.

yeah its weird that ur having them die so soon

 

[WrickM]

never WMO while i had it, 200,000 miles.

well for filtering when ever i make bio the last step is through a .5 micron filter
now as to how it would hold up to wmo iam not shure cuz they are water filters but they work good, and u may also beable to use a centrifuge but iam not shure how well they would work with wmo.
and i really dont belive any ammount of filtering or treating is going to help the end results of long term use of wmo

just to answer the centrifuge Q, I know a guy who uses cheaper synthetic oils and doesn't change oil he just centrifugess it until it's like new again and adds as needed. He's been doing it for well over 100k miles.

I filter my Vegetable oil down to 5 microns. so far i have changed diesel ful filters more than vegetable oil filters. . .

 

[Black dawg]

I filter to 2 micron before it goes into the truck and 2 micron on the truck. before I added the 2mic filter on the truck I could see wear on the injector pintles, now I cant.

 

[1bigjoe]

the problem is the filter paper the 1st time wmo hits that paper filter it starts restricting flow.
do you loop the return?
, do you have a two fuel system?
do you heat the wmo?

 

[TestDriver]

the problem is the filter paper the 1st time wmo hits that paper filter it starts restricting flow.
do you loop the return?
, do you have a two fuel system?
do you heat the wmo?

1. The flow circuit is factory. I have a pressure gauge at the filter outlet.

2. The WMO is on the front tank only.

3. Yes. I goes to the first filter at engine temperature as fast as the heater reaches it. Eventually, both filters reach that equilibrium.

 

[1bigjoe]

never let the wmo go into the same filter the #2 diesel goes into , it never purdges out,