IP questions.

[Sycostang67]

Got a few questions regarding my IP. I plan on turning the pump up a bit since I have a pyro guage. How far should I turn it up? I'm not looking to generate copious amounts of smoke, just want a little more power. I've done some reading but have seen several descriptions ranging from 1/6, 1/4, full flat...not sure what the last one means.

 

[Diesel JD]

Okay so the fuel screw is a hex head screw that is turned with an allen wrench therefore each "flat" = 1/6 of a full turn. As far as how far to turn it up, only you can answer that, you can do so by watching your pyrometer and boost gauges and if you get too much of either or too much smoke for your conscience or your local authorities you'll have to turn it back down a bit. What are you seeing boost and egt wise right now? I see you're in Idaho so your elevation may limit you a bit in how much fuel you can get away with dumping in there.

 

[Sycostang67]

Right now if I get on it, I can get 7psi of boost and EGT's up to 800. The highest my EGT has gone was 1100 accellerating up a moderate hill with a loaded flatbed. The truck makes absolutely no smoke so I am assuming the IP is still at the factory setting. I guess I'm looking for a good baseline. Where's a good place to start, 1 flat, 2 flats, and then work my way from there?

 

[adam g]

If your pyro probe is in your exhaust manifold your on the money now. 1100 degrees is the max I want to see out of mine with that set up. My other truck has the probe in the turbo snail shell I don't like to see it get over 900.
If your not already it may be time to look into an intercooler. I'll tell you the difference mine makes when I complete it and rebuild the front end this weekend.

 

[icanfixall]

If you turn it up 2flats you probably will need to drive by the pyro only. But give it a try and watch the pyro closely.

 

[Sycostang67]

My probe is in the U-pipe, about 3"-4" past the manifold on the driver side.

I'll have to see if I can get this done this weekend, inbetween changing oil in the wifes jeep and changing a transmission in my sisters blazer. We also have a dyno day next month so I'd like to be ready for that.

 

[Diesel JD]

I think you've got room to play except when you are fully loaded. I agree with adam G though you don't want to see more than 1100 pre turbo. If you were in the factory port on an ATS I would say you'd not want to see it get quite that hot. Some will say you can run it up to 1250 all day and that may be true right next to the manifold if the pyro reads spot on or high, but I'm in Adam's school of thought with having some bit of a fudge factor with the EGTs. 7 psi of boost could still be better with a 7.3 you could be 12-13 psi on stock bolts but you may not be able to get there without an unacceptable amount of smoke or excessive EGT under a load. Anything higher than that becomes superheated and for all intents and purposes wasted without an intercooler or water injection and also gets close to head gasket popping range without studs.

 

[k_williams1982]

I played with my IP earlier today, and have come to the conclusion that I will be leaving it at only turned up two flats. I will go into more details as to why later in a thread I will be posting into the Lounge.

 

[Sycostang67]

As it is, right now I dont think I would see 1100 too often. The one time I did get that high was due to heavy accellerating uphill while merging onto the interstate with about 7k in tow. I usually try to avoid the interstate when towing, but in this case it was the only way I knew to get where I was going. The majority of my hauling is on flatland with 1-2 trips into the mountains each year to go camping.

I'll start at 2 flats and see how it goes, then adjust if needed. How hard is it going to be to crank this thing over by hand? Am I going to need a 6' breaker bar on the crank bolt?

 

[Diesel JD]

You'll feel a lot of resistance by hand but it'll turn pretty easy with just a 1/2" ratchet or short breaker bar. Thing I'd be worried about is do you have a 15/16" deep socket to make this happen and of course you know you better disconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid before you try that. I'm sure you do know that but I feel I should post it in case some newbie doesn't.....

 

[Sycostang67]

There's a good chance I have the socket. I'm still a diesel newbie so the fuel shutoff solenoid is news to me, thanks for mentioning that. One more question, I forgot which way to turn the fuel screw. It's clockwise to turn it up isn't it?

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Turning the internal fuel screw clockwise or turning it in or towards the front of the truck is all correct. The allen screw you are looking for under the home plate cover is 5/32. You will need to use the long end of the allen wrench because the short end wont fit in deep enough. Clean everything with brake clean... Then clean it again. Wear white surgical gloves and when they get dirt on them its time to change to clean ones. Any dirt in this area will kill the pump....

 

[Sycostang67]

I got it done, had to rotate the motor 3 times to find the allen screw. Now I'm waiting for my batteries to recharge after cranking the motor forever(30 seconds/2minutes apart) to purge the air out.

 

[Sycostang67]

Well I'm an idiot, the truck probably would have started a lot sooner if I had plugged the fuel shutoff solenoid back in.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Lol, well then ignore my comment about the weak lift pump - yah, plugging the FSS back in does help things a bit, lol