Intake Manifold and valve cover powder coating

Alwaysreadyrob

2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4
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Thanks guys, so on that note, with doing all the work to pull the engine, would it make sense to get a new long block and new turbo and drop it in and bolt on all the accessories from the old engine ?
Returning it for the core charge ?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Maybe if your is worn extensively. If there's only a little bit of wear in the cylinders, then I don't see a need for another long block. It's A LOT of money.
 

03wr250f

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So I’ve got these parts off my truck because I’m in the process of putting head studs in. What I’m trying to find out is how hot my intake manifold and valve covers will get at WOT... I called the powder coating company and he said it’s good for up to 200 degrees. Or he has ceramic which is good to 1600 but limited on color choice. If I had the engine together I would just shoot it with a temperature gun but I have no way to do that.
I asked powdercoaters the same thing and got much the same answer only it was powder cures at 400* so if you get close to 400 it might discolor.
for that reason they all steered me away from white (I wanted my charge pipes white) for fear they would yellow after years.
I ended up having all my accesory brackets, intake manifold, and coolant pipes powdercoated black sparkle, with a heavy thick clear coat, and my valve covers, cold air intake, and eventually my charge air piping all powered blue sparkle with the same heavy clear
 

Macrobb

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Lets see... I've painted valve covers with cheap spray paint. Worked fine.
I'm not sure what the browning temperature of paper towel is, but that's what the valley pan will get to under a heavy load, assuming no diesel leaks(which will keep the temps way down).

I also used some expired aerospace paint 2-part polyurethane to paint my intake manifold; it's worked perfectly. Turns out that the white paint I used will eventually discolor under long-term exposure to diesel. Also interesting is that cheap spray paint wipes off with MEK or Acetone even long after cure; two-part polyurethane... won't.
 
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