Installing Elec pump and stuck

ClassicIDI

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I am putting a red holley on my truck but I don't know how to tap into the plastic lines under the truck. Do I strip them off the connectors at the selector valve and other end and replace them with rubber or cut and heat them to slide over barbed fitting on pump. pictures would be a big help. thanks David
 

OkieGringo

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I just put the pump where the plastic line connects to the steel line going up to the Lift pump. Separated the plastic line from the steel and clamped on the rubber line. You need to put the pump after the selector valve. OkieGringo
 

93turbo_animal

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Just for a reference electric fuel pumps are meant to be pushers not pullers so the closer to the tanks you can get it the better off the pump will be
 

towcat

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93turbo_animal said:
Just for a reference electric fuel pumps are meant to be pushers not pullers so the closer to the tanks you can get it the better off the pump will be
problem is, those switching valves can't handle much pressure going through them. don't ask how I know :eek:
 

beretzs

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I just cut the hard plastic line, and stuffed rubber fuel lines over the top with some good fuel line clamps and it has been leak free.. Probably the only thing that works well is the Electric Fuel Pump. Scotty
 

93turbo_animal

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towcat said:
problem is, those switching valves can't handle much pressure going through them. don't ask how I know :eek:

plus on the other side of the valve you would need 2 pumps cookoo putting it right by the valve would be the best case but hay then again I say whats wrong with the factory pump that lasted 180k cookoo plus right by the valve you have the factory plastic line to deal with still cookoo but hey I didn't say it was perfect ;Sweet
 

ClassicIDI

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I was planning on putting right by the selector on the frame. I would like to replace the plastic line with rubber so it sounds like I can cut the plastic off the connector that gos into the selector and put rubber over them and clamp them. Any other suggestions would be great.
 

beretzs

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I would just cut the hard plastic line and run rubber over the cut hard plastic line, messing with that FSV is dangerous.. One of those things like return lines, look at them too hard and they will act up. Scotty
 

ClassicIDI

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Do I just slide rubber hose over the cut plastic and clamp the rubber to the plastic and then also another clamp on the rubber to pump or just on the rubber to pump part. thanks again
 

Cowboy_Customs

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I dont know how involved you want to get here, but when I had to replace the lines going to my tanks cause the metal ones were rusted through, I just ripped every single one of em off to the selector valve, and stuck on rubber line with good clamps. If I had to do it again Id completely take off the selector valve to make it easier to plumb up the rear tank. Make sure you take your time and make for 100% sure you know which line is which, I dont know if it matters, but I did so I didnt have to try to figure it out if i got one switched. Also when I did mine, the midship tank was the easiest, I can see the top of it by sitting up under the bed. I think the hardest part of it was removing the factory retaining clips on those plastic lines!
I didnt go ALL THE WAY to the sending unit on the rear tank so all that I did was cut the plastic line and pull back the factory rubber sleeve around it, and simply slide over the rubber line, and clamp!
I would suggest if you only want to get under their and take a diesel bath once, I would just do the WHOLE system all in one shot, just simply rip off every single stinkin factory line all the way up to the lift pump. I dont know what you plan on doing with the metal line that goes from there to the filter so use your own judgement or creativity.
But thats just my 2 cents, I got a hell of a bath when I did mine because of what I was dealing with.
but you do it your way, the only thing I will suggest in the parts department, is make sure you have the right size clamps, and in stainless steel. I just had to replace one of them because some how it worked loose, and was broken! it was the wrong size clamp, but still!

Oh and you want a clamp on every single splice/connection, otherwise it will leak like a siv!
 
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